Back to the old town. There’s some choice between steep hills and flights of stairs, but either way it’s a workout. We have a nominal errand involving finding the post office, which, fortunately, isn’t urgent, as we wander happily in the warren of streets and lanes without ever spotting it. Do come home with a better map, though, and a bit of advice from the nice lady at tourist info, so reasonable hopes for next time. The centre is unashamedly touristy, though fairly cheerful, and not high pressure. And it’s off-season. There are a few people on the long, sandy beach, though not many in the water.
The cafés and bars seem full regardless of time of day. Prices have gone up a bit in the seven years since we were here last, but a large beer (roughly a pint) is between €2 and €3 ($3 to $4.50 CAD, £1.76 to £2.64). Not surprisingly, British tourists, who seem to be in the majority, find a pint or two in the midday sun irresistible. Stop briefly at a Spar grocery store. The sections are labelled in English as well as Portuguese. I’m taken with the area posted as Dried Groceries, though the description is fair enough - that’s where we find the dried lentils. Probably Canadian, though the packet doesn’t specify. Most green lentils, regardless of country, seem to originate in Canada. Certainly true in Cyprus. Also buy Maria biscuits labelled integrales - like the Italian for whole grain, a term I’m fairly good at recognising in various languages.
On the way back we sit in the square and people watch. Mostly tourists, but a nearby bench has a heavy blanket heaped at one end, suggesting it is someone’s home. J spots the occupant coming out of the busy café across from us carrying an open but recorked wine bottle. He’s followed by a man from the café who brings him a foil plate full of food. There are colder - and probably less generous places to be homeless. Interesting, as we’re currently rereading Orwell’s Down and Out in Paris and London. Published in 1933, and things change, but the ability of homelessness to narrow consciousness to the next meal and somewhere safe to sleep must be constant.
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