Tuesday, October 31/2023

 

We’re slightly taken aback by how warm it is. True, we haven’t been in Cyprus in October before, but we have been in the first part of November. Predicted highs this week between 28 and 30, while the average high in November is 23 in Larnaca. But then no two years fit the average pattern precisely anywhere. Expected lows between 16 and 20. No mid-continent effect here!

Retrieve our storage boxes, now down to two, and bring them up to the flat. No huge surprises - a little kitchen gadgetry and a few charity shop treasures, a couple of books. Also a combination radio CD player and quite a few CDs, another charity shop find years ago.  Probably the collection of someone who died or went back to England. But music we like.

Minimal grocery shop at Sarris, still know to us as the elephant store from a previous incarnation. Sun dried olives at €4.39 (£3.82, $6.44 CAD) a kilo, a loaf of wholemeal bread, a couple each of onions, long sweet red peppers, courgettes and bananas, and a few mushrooms. And on the way home a kilo of honey and a bottle of Spanish cabernet. We have chicken and cheese. It’s a start.

Monday, October 30/2023

 

Check out time. Pretty well packed so we just have a bit of clean up. The place was spotless when we moved in and well equipped, so it’s puzzling to find that one of the very large bath towels is nowhere to be seen. Couldn’t possibly have packed it or accidentally thrown it out. Eventually discovered under the pillows, having somehow been made up into the bed.

Tube to Heathrow and a session of people watching as we wait first for baggage drop time and then for boarding. The smoothest and most intuitive procedures we’ve seen for obtaining boarding passes and luggage tags as well as dropping off the suitcases. Pretty quick and efficient at security as well.  And then the three hour wait. Bit of people watching airside as well. There’s a man in a dress kilt and bonnet, the latter adorned with a small knitted decoration. Unclear what it  represents  but it does call to mind the old Scots wartime song The Toorie on his Bonnet :

  « He left his kilt and sporran/ And off he went to war in/ His red toorie oorie oorie ay. »

Needless to say he frightened the life out of the enemy.

The flight is slightly over an hour late leaving. And British Airways haven’t been what they once were for a number of years now. Gone are the days of sitting back with a hot meal and glass or two of wine included. Now if you wish you can have a small sandwich and a beer for £10. Which would be slightly less insulting if BA had not initially assured us that customers had said they PREFERRED choosing their own sandwiches to the previous arrangement. Survey limited to major shareholders?

Late departure leads to late arrival. A little after midnight so the last scheduled bus has gone. But there are the ever hopeful taxis queued and one takes us to the Sunflower where the old man we think of as The Friend of the Hotel has been prevailed upon to await our arrival. He speaks no English but does remember us well so many smiles and handshaking. And the key.We’re home.

Sunday, October 29/2023

 « When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life, » said Dr Johnson. Gender inclusive statements weren’t a big thing in the eighteenth century. But it was and is true that London encompasses more than can be appreciated in one lifetime. One of the pleasures - first noted on a visit in 1989 - is the variety of impressive cars. On the walk over to the supermarket we pass Jaguars and Porsches. Even a Rolls Royce and a Tesla. The ordinary cars are the various Mercedes and BMWs. As well as less common models of more modest makes that we don’t run into at home. Though maybe if we lived in Vancouver. Would half tons seem exotic in London or just unsophisticated?

But not far from where we are staying now and in the heart of some of the places we have stayed in the past there is a different world. No Jaguars and people without homes let alone cars. The sign in this window in Kilburn High Road says SHOP TO RENT. The vacancy doubtless to the advantage of the rough sleepers who would not have been an asset to business. Looks like at least two regulars. Their temporary absence allowing me to take this photo without violating their privacy.

Saturday, October 28/2023

 A major demonstration in central London today in support of the civilians of Gaza, half of whom are children. We can’t join it for the afternoon but do stop outside Westminster underground station where the thousands of marchers are turning to cross Westminster Bridge to the south side of the river. Memories of the second demonstration against the Iraq invasion which we took part in, with over 750,000 people in the streets of London in March of 2003. A month after the initial protest with a million and a half marchers. 

There were rumours that those carrying Palestinian flags and signs supporting Palestine would be arrested but clearly the police aren’t interested in pursuing that sort of thing. Although in Germany arrests have been made for waving flags. Rather distressing, as one could presumably carry the flags of Russia, China or North Korea without anyone’s objecting.

There are mounted police as well as a helicopter circling overhead, but they appear to be keeping watch with no intention of interfering unnecessarily. At the end of the day the official announcement is that there have been two arrests - one for assaulting a police officer and one for shouting racist insults. None for expressing humanitarian or even political positions.  

How many were there? Not surprisingly there is a discrepancy  between the estimates of the march organisers and the police, with the former claiming half a million and the latter 100,000. Entirely probable that both figures have been influenced by political considerations.

Friday, October 27/2023

 London is largely a number of villages that grew together, joining up especially when the railway lines went in and provided access to the city. Belsize Park existed before the underground railway was constructed but it was countryside in the early days.

The name itself comes from the French Bel Assis, or well situated, and earliest references go back to the fourteenth century. There was once a manor house, rebuilt at various points and eventually torn down. Located at an intersection we pass through on our way down to Finchley Road. Nothing at all remaining of its rural origins, which would have been early seventeenth century, when it played host to aristocratic hunting parties. “ Rebuilt in 1663, it was sublet by 1721, when the parklands opened as pleasure gardens for those looking to escape the dirt and grime of the City of London, with concerts, singing, dancing and country sports such as fishing and racing. In 1722 magistrates were instructed to act to stop riotous behaviour, although the parkland remained open until 1745.” [Wikipedia].

Hunter’s Lodge in Belsize Park survived much longer though and was at one time the home of Spencer Percival, the only British prime minister to have been assassinated (1812, in the House of Commons). This house still exists and, in fact, went up for sale two years ago, with an asking price of £7.5 million. Although it’s fair to say there had been « improvements » - a basement lap swimming pool and spa and a champagne tasting room.

The twentieth century saw Belsize Park developing into an affluent suburb with many of the original houses being divided into flats and new houses built including those on our street, where a blue plaque confirms that one of the houses was once the home of Ramsay MacDonald, the first Labour prime minister.

2021 - photo Joas Souza, Daily Mail

       

  

Thursday, October 26/2023

 To West Harrow to see Jean. Quite handy leaving from Finchley Road Station. Had originally intended to go yesterday but postponed it as it took the morning to get back from Thames Ditton. We’ve visited her here pretty regularly over the last thirty-five years in the same house (1906). And her next door neighbour, Jean says, was born two streets away when the neighbourhood was more like a village. 1906 is two years after the section of the Metropolitan line of the underground was constructed (although it’s completely above ground this far west). As in other parts of Britain, the expansion of railways allowed suburban growth as people could live near the railway and work in the city. And, much earlier than this the Metropolitan has the distinction of being the first underground railway in the 

world. It dates back to 1863 and originally featured steam locomotives and gas-lit wooden carriages.

A community of Victorian and Edwardian houses, many with flowers still blooming. Jean’s fuschias are brilliant and we pass luxuriant window boxes on our way back to the station. By the time we reach home the moon has risen - very nearly the full Hunter’s Moon it will become this weekend.

Wednesday, October 25/2023

 Trains from Thames Ditton seem to be running as usual and on time this morning.  Could have checked online last night, as our friend of the platform doubtless was doing, but we’ve never experienced more than slight delays in the past. It’s a nice little station. Only open weekday mornings but they have lots of info available and sell coffees that fund the station garden - pots of colourful flowers. An hour and a half from the station to our front door. Do google to see if there’s anything on last night’s problem. Apparently true that a person was hit by a train, and at Wimbledon they now say. About noon, so we’re fortunate to have got to Thames Ditton at all.

Suicides on the London Transport system average about one a week. It’s a number that is a little difficult to establish as it’s not always clear whether an individual fell or jumped. Being pushed is much rarer, though it has happened. And suicide numbers have been dropping as TFL has taken stronger preventative measures.

Tuesday, October 24/2023

 To Doug and Jenny’s in Thames Ditton to spend the day. One of the chief pleasures of visiting London. Arrive in time for morning coffee and the catch up begins. As we arrive we pass Jenny on her way to the village pastry shop. Acquiring the beautiful quiches - two ham and two vegetarian - that we have along with a salad for lunch. 

Then Doug and J head off to inspect the last remaining two properties of Doug’s post retirement occupation. In his pre-retirement days D was an engineer, and J says that all his renovations have the engineer’s precision, even in spots where a casual observer would never notice the attention to detail.

Meanwhile Jenny and I take a walk through the village, stopping down by the river where there is a bridge across to an island featuring a number of houses - once summer only but now year round residences, many with boat moorings. We’re back in time for a visit from Emma along with daughters Jasmine and Leila and Laura’s son Cody. We’ve hit a two week school break, although Jasmine, doing her GCSE’s this year, tells us she has an English test when she goes back on Monday.

Dinner for the four of us with more treats from the village pastry shop for dessert. And time to be on our way as trains from Thames Ditton only go every half hour. When we reach the platform there is only one man waiting and he points out that our train has been cancelled. Slowly it emerges that subsequent trains have been delayed and arrival estimations keep moving later. Our informant, who has been busy with his mobile, tells us that someone has been hit on the tracks and that the next train heading our way, marked as delayed, has not in fact left Waterloo. 

So back to D and J’s, who kindly put us up for the night - a very comfortable bed on the third floor in a room with enough good books we could easily stay for a year.

Monday, October 23/2023

 Technical errand day. Appointment at the Apple store in Covent Garden. New iPad mini 6 has been glitchy and totally froze the other day. Had installed assistive touch as workaround given lack of home button but unhappy at the thought that it could refuse to turn on some time making software unavailable. Looks like non drastic solution as prescribed by lovely young woman in hijab, along with reassurance re online help if necessary when in countries with no Apple stores.

Not yet noon so second stop is HSBC branch on Kilburn High Road. Need some digital updating available only at full service branches - of which there are few remaining. Hit it lucky here as our consultant is a young Albanian man who has lived in Greece as well as London. Tons of cheerful advice well beyond what we actually required, just for the sheer nerdish pleasure of edging us a little further into the digital age. And, as an Albanian, well aware of the idiosyncratic nature of financial transactions in small countries or those outside the EU. London is one of the most multicultural cities in the world - a third of the inhabitants foreign born - but even so we’ve been fortunate in our advisors.

One of the pleasures of Kilburn High Road is the fruit and vegetables stands. Prices usually much better than in more affluent neighbourhoods but quality every bit as good. Two small containers of raspberries for £1.10 (€1.25, $1.85 CAD) and a half kilo of excellent cherry tomatoes for a pound (€1.14, $1.68 CAD). Fortunately accompanied by a plastic bag, as we have neglected to bring one.

Overheard: “I take a carry-on but it’s half full of popcorn….” Reminiscent of the old series of cartoons called The Eavesdropper” that used to run in the New Yorker. A snippet of conversation accompanied by the image evoked in the mind of the person overhearing.

Sunday, October 22/2023

Sunny and warm. A good day for reacquainting ourselves with the cafés and shops around Belsize Park tube station. Some look familiar, like the organic fruit and vegetable shop. Others, like some of the little restaurants are part of the regular turnover. There’s a small hardware store that may have been there before and a Daunt bookshop that apparently was. The gourmet burger restaurant 🙄 wasn’t. We’re interested in seeing Budgens, part of a small but fairly pricey supermarket chain. Handy for minor purchases when we used to stay nearby.

Has now become Kavanagh’s Budgens, with Kavanagh’s writ much larger. Significantly upscale from its former self and clearly catering to a clientele for whom price is not an important consideration. Plenty of exotic imports, kosher breads, varieties of olives with no price affixed - if you have to ask it’s probably not for you). Oddly enough the wine prices seem quite reasonable, so that could prove handy. No young mums to be seen and the elderly may be in receipt of pensions but don’t look as if the state stipend were important to their survival. (Photo not mine but suspect there would be no objection to the free publicity.)

Saturday, October 21/2023

 Rainy off and on. Actually more on than off. And relatively late in the day when we realise that London’s demonstration protesting the genocidal response to Gaza has been taking place. Reports on numbers vary widely, which is not unusual, with organisers saying over 300,000 attended whilst the Metropolitan report “up to 100,000”. This is interesting in itself, as on previous London protests the police, when appealed to for verification of numbers, have claimed that they never make their estimates public. Leaving most journalists taking refuge weakly in “tens of thousands”.

We do go down to Aldi, leaving in a gap in the rain. Actual shortest distance as calculated by Transport for London is a mile (though they give the kilometre equivalent). Interesting that TFL is happy to provide distances, time estimates and best routes for those walking or cycling as well as those using buses or tube. Significantly wetter returning, though unlike yesterday we don’t walk more than the necessary mile. Didn’t bring umbrellas this time. They take up a fair bit of room and are difficult to use when pulling suitcases or carrying bags. Rewarded with a hot meal of pasta, vegetables and chicken.

Friday, October 20/2023

Flight arrives near noon, which works well for a three pm check in at the studio we’ve booked in Belsize Park. It’s quite near Belsize Park tube station in a neighbourhood we’ve lived in many times, although not recently. Key in the lock box as promised and we’re in. 

Down about five to Finchley Road to buy the makings for supper. Our new area is classier than the last couple. According to Wikipedia "the name is derived from French bel assis meaning 'well situated'". Also "the area has many thoroughfares bearing its name: Belsize Avenue, Belsize Court, Belsize Crescent, Belsize Gardens, Belsize Grove, Belsize Lane, Belsize Mews, Belsize Park (the road), Belsize Park Gardens, Belsize Place, Belsize Square, and Belsize Terrace". This latter not entirely an advantage when returning from Aldi in the dark, especially as streets that appear to be parallel wander off the grid at will. Have managed a pretty efficient route going - not so much coming back.

But the kitchen is pretty well equipped, the wifi works smoothly, and we have some decent seeded bread and a bottle of Tempranillo. All’s well.

 

Thursday, October 19/2023

The stunning weather continues so we take the bus to the airport. Have always maintained that Winnipeg bus drivers are the nicest in the world, almost uniformly friendly and helpful, though sadly Jennifer, who works for Workers Compensation Board, says they receive a lot of abuse. Do see quite a few teenagers thanking the driver as they leave the bus, though. 

As was the case last year we’ve been denied online boarding passes. Then the explanation was that we’d booked a round trip of over six months and needed to provide proof we weren’t illegally moving to the UK - as in an onward ticket. This time the agent spends a great deal of time squinting at the computer but issues the passes without asking to see the screen shot of our London to Cyprus ticket.

Flight full to Toronto but one from Toronto to London not at all crowded. Rumours that dinner not included fortunately false. Suspected Air Canada of attempting to save money by insisting that no one actually wanted dinner near midnight anyway. And indeed this dinner barely worth eating but happily the wines on AC usually significantly better than the food. And so to sleep. 

Wednesday, October 18/2023

 

Sunny and warm again today and lovely day for taking the bus downtown. The errand being to close an account, seldom used, and in fact dormant, with HSBC. The dormant bit is the problem. Tried to do it online and was told that we should go, equipped with two pieces of photo ID, to our nearest branch. So, 270 miles later here we are. Did point out that it was a somewhat unsatisfactory method of proceeding. 

Couldn’t have been a nicer day for it though. There are many attractive facets to Winnipeg but the downtown a bit short on aesthetic planning. Witness the Catholic cathedral, a lovely Romanesque Revival building dwarfed by a cacophony of recent giant buildings. However, we discover a delightful little oasis. True North Square, tucked in behind the sports arena and deserved winner of a design competition. The wind is blocked but the sun isn’t. It’s quiet. There is seating, and planters and a fountain. Even a drinking fountain designed for tall people, short people and dogs.

Tuesday, October 17/2023

Haven’t yet seen the youngest member of the tribe, Jillian and David’s daughter Sully, born two weeks ago. Five and a half pounds of perfection. Van Gogh, the dog, mildly interested, but can see she’s too young to play.

We’re in luck because Lauren and Darryl are also here and Darryl is cooking - a supreme chef and we’re treated to a classic beef bourguignon - with flair. And Lauren is, by profession, a chocolatier and has brought a selection that looks as good as it tastes. What more could we ask? Oh yes, music! There is that too. Darryl tunes a guitar and he and Lauren sing - which they also do professionally. 

And Sully, the baby, sleeps peacefully through it all. Though we suspect she may stay awake all night.

Monday, October 16/2023

 

If the weather were always like this we might never leave, which would be a shame because the world is full of seductively beautiful places. But we do know that the golden warmth is deceptive and the ice age will follow.

Train roughly three and a half hours late - actually unusual on westbound though sadly the least that can be expected coming east. Mussolini had many obvious failings but making the trains run on time is not an insignificant achievement - though one most of Europe does manage. It’s a remarkably scenic trip any time of the year but this time the leaves of the birch trees have turned but not fallen and the tamaracks are an even more brilliant feathered gold, all reflected in the many lakes along the track.

Naturally arrive late - after ten - in Winnipeg, having been warned that we will be required to stay on board for safety reasons during some fifteen minutes of servicing. Fifteen minutes stretches and most are patient, bar one young man, in withdrawal from nicotine or worse, who paces the aisle talking to himself about the need to bust out. Seems there was one possible means of early exit though. An ambulance is seen outside and rumour quickly establishes that an old woman drank too much in the bar car and fell downstairs. Confirmed by a man in the seat behind - “six doubles while I was there”.

And Jennifer, graciously uncomplaining, has waited to collect us.