Tuesday, December 31/2024

 

Happy New Year

Heavy rain, reported locally as 56 kg per square meter. Have never seen it measured that way. There do seem to be sites that purport to translate to more familiar terms but don’t pursue them. Content myself with wondering whether this does or does not mean roofs will fall in. At any rate ours not the worst. The next village rejoiced in 74 kg per square meter. 

Meanwhile a heading in the Cyprus Mail (South) announces Bicommunal Action to Overcome Alien Invasions. It does take some significant impetus to persuade Greek and Turkish Cypriots to co-operate in any official capacity. But can see that a Martian attack might indeed do it. However the actual story slightly less dramatic if equally worthy. Turns out that scientists and farmers from both sides of the border intend to work together to protect the island from invasive species.

And there’s an even happier story in the same paper which I am pleased to assume is accurate despite not having spotted it yet in a Northern source. The TRNC government, which yesterday announced a five percent VAT increase on a huge number of goods including many basic food items which had not previously been taxed at all, has apparently had second thoughts and decided not to impose the increase, which was to have been implemented tomorrow. Will of course affect us - or it seems not affected us - but the poorest people would as always have been hit the hardest as raising the price on food - even the most basic - would effectively have wiped out any advantage gained from the recent increase in minimum wage.

Rain 56 kg sa m

74 kg sa m

Bicommunal action to overcome alien invasions

Scientists and farmers from both sides of the line need to work together to protect the island’s trees from invasive species, 

Monday, December 30/2024

Hanging a towel out on the drying rack and spot the little cat that was sleeping beside our patio the other day. Curled up in the same spot near the honeysuckle and so well camouflaged by long grass that she would have been easy to miss. Can see that it’s a safe spot and suspect that she associates it with J as she examined his nearby chair pretty thoroughly last week, although he has prudently only left food on the other side of the road.

Really don’t want to acquire a cat. We’re not here year round so it would only have to be abandoned in the spring. Also think this is a female and it is definitely not neutered as the vets clip the corner of an ear after neutering. Absolutely no desire to find ourselves responsible for a litter of kittens. And not at all likely that it has a home if the edge of our patio is the best place to spend a chilly night.

Sunday, December 29/2024

Down to the grocery store for the first time since Christmas Eve - having been pretty well stocked up. But now in need of yoghurt and cheese and bananas and tomato paste. And a surprise. The woman at the till hands us a small bag and opens it so we can see what is inside. A bottle of dry white Turkish wine, a small package of ground coffee and a little packet of salted peanuts. Christmas? Well, maybe. But this is not a country that celebrates Christmas. Not a public holiday. Language skills not up to a discussion on either side. But we are regular customers, and it is lovely.

Current read alouds are Believe Nothing Until it is Officially Denied, biography of the late Claud Cockburn, radical journalist, written by his youngest son, Patrick Cockburn, one of our favourite Middle East based journalists. A compelling read. And, for light relief, The Colours of all the Cattle, by the indefatigable Alexander McCall Smith - eighteenth in the Number 1 Ladies’Detective Agency series. Always a pleasure. 

Saturday, December 28/2024

The neighbours with the orchard opposite us have started a fire in their outdoor oven. Which always leads us to wonder about the welfare of their goat. At one point last year there were definitely two goats but recently have only heard one. Though really there are only two possible reasons for raising goats - for milk or meat. Nobody wants them as crazy pets. And crazy they are. There are frequent complaints about goats breaking into gardens and demolishing fruit trees. Apparently quite good at defeating metal fencing.

Do not remember having seen goat yoghurt in the grocery store. Or meat, for that matter, although could well have missed it. The Turkish is keçi - which can also be the term for a stubborn person.

Friday, December 27/2024

 Has rained much of the day, although not particularly distressing. December usually the wettest month and we had pretty good weather for Christmas. Can see from the radar map why looking out our north (seaside) window often shows black clouds when looking out the south (mountainside) window shows a brightening sky. Türkiye is about 110 km north of us - can see it on a clear day - and the weather there is often stormier. The south shore of Cyprus, on the other hand, is about 80 km south of us and the island is most frequently sunny. 

Speculation re the striking municipal workers had led us to wonder whether that meant the garbage would not be collected, but heard the truck go by late yesterday evening. For some reason this is usually a job done at night. Meanwhile in the South fake bin men have been reported going house to house asking for Christmas tips. The history of Boxing Day notwithstanding it had never crossed my mind that those collecting rubbish were particularly deserving of Christmas gratuities. Were people simply embarrassed into ante-ing up?

Meanwhile in the North a man fell foul of the law for different, but completely avoidable reasons. Nicosia residents phoned police to complain about a man playing music at excessive volume. Turns out he was an illegal resident and in attempt to escape he jumped from a ten meter high window and broke his leg. As Ralph, of TFR put it “if you have to fly under the radar and can’t manage it…’..

Thursday, December 26/2024

Evergreen? This country is always green. Although the carob trees seem to be going through a quiet winter phase. Happily the citrus trees are just coming into full fruit. Told J yesterday we were going to need another lemon as I was making the apple crumble and he went out and was back in five minutes with an armful of lemons. Much as he could have done in Canada with chives or oregano.

Apparently general strike of public service workers begins today. Not sure who that involves although guess we may find out. Rubbish collection? Large bins everywhere although suppose they would fill up faster than one might think if not emptied. Does this mean that if there were a power failure no one would be working to fix it? Handicapped by 1) list of affected unions uses only initials; 2) relevant information mostly in Turkish; and 3) FB maddeningly continues to insist that the Canadian government is responsible for its failure to let me read news - from North Cypriot and Turkish newspapers on a tablet in Cyprus posted by a group based in North Cyprus. 😵‍💫

Wednesday, December 25/2024

 If a bloke’s day begins with a drink and a cigar in the sunshine on the patio then it must be Christmas.

Pretty laid back Christmas. Twentieth one on the island. Think it’s the eighth in the North as there were several with Bill and Jane at Ship Inn in Girne when we were staying in the South.

No pressure re Christmas dinner as we have all day to make it. Nice plump chicken to roast in the oven and J makes dressing. We’ve opted for apple crumble for dessert. Not a problem despite lack of either measuring cups or scales but the custard is trickier. Would happily have gone with custard powder but in its absence guesstimate the amounts of milk and sugar and go with four egg yolks plus vanilla - and no corn starch. Not a hard call since we don’t have any. And luck is with us.

Pyrotechnics as well, as a thunder storm, happily not connected to a power outage, starts just as we begin eating. Dramatic end to a quiet day.

Tuesday, December 24/2024

Christmas Eve. Beautiful sunny, warm day so we’re off to the strip to get the missing bits for tomorrow. Dolmuş down to the Russian shop for salted herring and German garlic pork sausage. Surprised to meet John there also collecting sausage for Christmas.

 Then down to Besmar for veg. Potatoes on sale for 40 lira ($1.63 CAD, £0.91) a kilo, which is noticeably better than our local, though a fairly unimpressive commentary on the government’s effort to lower the price. Always nice produce here. Then Şokmar. Peanuts and - happy discovery - cigars. Dominican Republic. Not Cuba, but close. Could have custard powder here but expensive - and, more importantly, 800 grams is more than we’d use in two winters. So now committed to making my own without benefit of Bird’s. And last stop Ileli. Vanilla and J, bless him, has discovered Branston pickle. Still haven’t forgotten accidentally leaving a large jar of same on a bus in Türkiye in 2001, though the regret has faded somewhat.

So, errands accomplished. Walk up to Ankara Caddesi to take a dolmuş home. Well timed too. Dark clouds have formed and we’re no sooner back than it rains. But we have everything.

Monday, December 23/2024

Remembering past Christmases as I come across this photo from 2017. We still have the stained glass - OK, technically stained plastic - Christmas tree. It’s up on the window this year as well. But it loses a little in translation without a palm tree growing immediately outside the window.

And from the previous year, 2016, the memory box on Facebook produces this little gem:

‘Cyprus banks rock! Went to cash point this morning and too slow to prevent receipt being sucked slowly back into the works. Inquired within and they kindly retrieved it. Noticed table by the door laden with mixed nuts, dried fruit and crisps. Would I like some wine? I hesitate. Not quite 10 AM. Sun not only not over the yard arm but not in evidence at all. It's raining. But I should have a drink to warm up, they say. So I accept a small glass. In addition to wine there is zivania (local spirit) and two kinds of whisky on the table. Much laughter amongst the staff when I tell them that in Canada banks regard coffee and biscuits as a treat. "Here we do it for the customers on Christmas Eve and New Year's Eve."’

Do have to admit, though, that this particular bank branch office is no more. Gone in the international wave of small bank branch closures.

Sunday, December 22/2024

Missed having a jigger. Not particularly abstemious but prefer knowing what’s in the glass to the general slosh approach. So, happy to note that the little Turkish coffee cup - of which we have four, along with tiny saucers, awaiting the grand occasion on which we have guests and make Turkish coffee - is just the right size to serve as a jigger. 

At the grocery store J asks if I need sugar. I say we have sugar. This proves not to be the case, so that goes on tomorrow’s list. Assembling ingredients before Christmas, not that stores will close down on Christmas, but we may. And it may rain.

Note to self: there is no such thing as too many onions.

Saturday, December 21/2024

The winter solstice. Shortest day of the year and a sun cloud mix. But it’s warm enough. Hits twenty and the dogs are happy to enjoy lazing in the center of the Saturday market. 

As usual the used book stall is the most enticing. Pick up Tony Benn’s More Time for Politics, his diaries for the years 2001 to 2007, 2001 being the year he retired from his half century as a member of the British parliament. We were lucky enough to see him at his second last public appearance - in London in November of 2013. He died in March of 2014, the BBC obituary noting that he was one of the few British politicians who became more left-wing after having actually served in government.

Also an Ian Rankin novel and the memoirs of Nicholas Henderson, a British diplomat who served as ambassador to Poland, Germany and France as well as representing his country in the US. So well set up for reading. A far cry from the days when e-books were non-existent and English language books so thin on the ground in some countries we visited that we read whatever we found - resulting in some unusual choices, occasionally surprisingly rewarding.

Friday, December 20/2024

 Temperature 19 today. As usual, warmer in the midday sun. Although tomorrow is the winter solstice, so sunlight somewhat abbreviated obviously. Nine hours and forty-seven minutes of sunshine today. That’s the theory at least, somewhat modified by our living on the northern slope of a mountain. The sun disappears probably close to an hour earlier than the theoretical 16:38. Call it sunset or just hiding. 

The man down the street - he who regularly picks and eats the low hanging unripe figs on his walks often brings out a chair and suns himself on the side of the road, feet up on the stone wall. His garden is pretty shady, well designed for summer lounging, but in winter the sunshine is all roadside so he’s frequently out taking advantage of the warmth, sometimes with a radio on his lap as he follows a football match. A good spot for drying a pair of boots or some clothes as well. Fortunately nothing particularly attractive on display as the first time I saw the small assortment I assumed wrongly that he had, as is sometimes the local custom, set out a few unwanted garments in a curbside swap arrangement.

Thursday, December 19/2024

 Someone who offers both in person and online Turkish language classes - and possibly English language classes as well - posts occasional little samplers. Collections of objects or useful phrases. Nicely done and reasonably helpful. But if I am not seeming to memorise the few pages then suspect there would not be a lot of point to signing up for the classes.

My excuse has always been that Turkish is not an Indo-European language and this is true, despite the presence of obvious loan words. Note the pineapple in the chart. However even a very little of a language is better than none. The samplers include single words for “I am lost” and “I do not understand”which could prove extremely helpful in the right - or more probably wrong - circumstances. Know less than half a dozen words in Arabic but they include the words for “no”and “thank you”and did see regular use in Cairo.

Wednesday, December 18/2024

By dolmuş to Girne on errands, the first of which is to change the Canadian money remaining in my purse to Turkish lira. Wondering how to say bureau de change in Turkish and it occurs to me that I do not actually know how to say it in English. Turns out that Google Translate has the same difficulty and gives the English as  - bureau de change. Does provide the Turkish though - döviz bürosu. 

There are several of them, including four tripping over each other on a main street going down toward the harbour. The first three give precisely the same quote, amounting to 22 lira to the Canadian dollar. I would have guessed at that point that any other exchange would be the same, but J points out reasonably that the fourth is hardly any distance further and sure enough they come up with 23 lira to the dollar. Do learn to say Canada dollar instead of Canadian. The long a and an accent on the second syllable make it almost impossible for many speakers of other languages to understand the adjective. 

The harbour front has been renovated at length - actually at more length than originally planned as with many major projects. It is cleaner and brighter and the pathways are safer. Think that there had been infrastructure problems that needed solving as well. Medieval harbours not best designed to accommodate modern water supply and electricity. To some degree response of visitors has depended on whether they are new to the place or fell in love with its earlier incarnation, a bit down at heel but a part of history. We first stayed here twenty-four years ago, long before central Girne was full of new buildings, expensive chains, and Mercedes Benzes. Almost no tourists here midwinter then either. Doner kebabs virtually unknown. We ate traditional food at tiny cafés, choosing by the time-honoured method of pointing at whatever basins had taken our fancy. The waterfront did have old benches and we were among the few people using them in winter. We used to take books down to read there - probably warmer and with better light than our room.

Today it is bright and busy. Families and couples enjoying the sunshine. Hard to tell if the restaurants are busy and there have been complaints that the prices are inflated. We are not likely to find out as this is really tourist territory. Lovely to see a couple of young teenage boys with their fishing rods. Have no idea what their odds are but they seem to be taking it seriously. Presumably the boys are local so wonder why they are not in school in the early afternoon, but state schools usually start early but finish at lunchtime three days a week so that may explain it.

Stop at Mr Pound on the way back. Any link to the pound a bit tenuous but there is in fact only one price in the shop. Everything is 60 lira (£1.35, $2.45 CAD), tax included of course. Some things seem to be an amazing bargain. A pruning saw, for example. Chinese, of course, and not state of the art, but still. Others not so much. Suspect you could do better on small plates if you were not buying them as singles. J does not badly on a pair of reading glasses though.

Tuesday, December 17/2024

 J and I to the Blue Song for dinner. First time this season. We’re early so it’s not full and we have a table looking out over the sea breaking on the rocks. Service always unhurried and always a starter gratis. We both order sheftali [Predictive text has no idea what to make of this and changes it unhelpfully to shelf talk. Difficult to negotiate with predictive text. Did ask Siri (male, Jeeves type accent, unfailingly so polite I find myself apologising for troubling him) if he could prevent algorithms from helping me in ways that I found unhelpful but was told sadly that he was afraid that was beyond his capabilities.]

Șeftali in Turkish or Sheftalia in Greek (yes, do have a Greek keyboard but not sure it would be helpful - read Greek like a very small child, slowly and preferring capitals to script). Sausage native to Cyprus, made with pork in Greek territory and lamb or beef in Turkish areas. Meat is ground and seasoned and wrapped in caul fat rather than sausage casing. Way better than that sounds. I order it whenever possible because it’s unavailable in the rest of the world. Tonight’s is beef rather than lamb - fair enough as lamb has become unreasonably expensive - but also slightly undercooked. Not dangerously but the outside should be crisp, almost charred. So bring home the uneaten half as we’re pretty full anyway and now get to look forward to home crisped şeftali with tomorrow’s dinner.

Monday, December 16/2024

 Rainy day. Although the standard Cypriot response to rain is always but we need it. 

J fed a lean homeless cat the other day, giving it left over scraps at a spot across the road from our flat so that it would not get any ideas about our providing a permanent home and feeding station. Almost immediately a large and very overfed ginger cat elbowed in to take possession of the food. J intervened and the ginger cat moved on slowly and reluctantly. Original cat, a slim dark tortoise shell followed J gratefully back to the meal.

Today before the rain starts J spots dark tortoise shell nestled asleep in the corner of our patio underneath the orange tree. Leading us to hope he is not thinking he has found a home. Check later hoping he has gone but no, still curled up in the corner spot. Then worse possibility occurs. He is still alive? Relieved to find he has disappeared once the rain begins.

Rain stops shortly before sunset and pink clouds over the sea hint at fine weather tomorrow - with luck.

Sunday, December 15/2024

Flowering plants a little less showy than they were earlier in the season but fair enough - and there is no time of year when we are without flowers here. But meanwhile a small  green plant - well, ok, a weed - edges its way between the window frame and the shiny marble floor to announce its cheerful presence. Should remove it, and will, but you have to admire the chutzpah.

Saturday, December 14/2024

 Mad dogs and Englishmen lie out in the noonday sun. Well, don’t think he’s mad. The dogs that come to market usually seem exceptionally mild mannered. But like all dogs he knows a warm sunny spot when he sees one.

Particularly windy last night and today though. Cerulean blue sea pointed with whitecaps this morning. We’re earlier than usual at the market but nothing in particular takes our fancy. It’s really not a produce market except occasionally and on a pretty small scale. Do sometimes buy honey or eggs here. Mostly second hand clothing, books and appliances. Quite a good selection of books actually, and they’re sold in support of the animal rescue association. Both Beverley and Caroline work on that stall and they’re pretty well read.

We’d been thinking of going to the weekly market on Wednesday in Girne. It’s the equivalent of the Thursday market in Famagusta. In fact mostly the same products and sellers and we used to go regularly when we lived there. A little more awkward to get to here but certainly possible and might be nice once before Christmas. Forgot on Wednesday until it was really too late to bother but read in today’s weekly paper that we missed some minor excitement. A bag left on a wall near the roadside by the market was detonated by police in case it contained explosives. It didn’t but (suspense builds as continued on page six) only clothing items and personal belongings. Still, gave the reporters a break from reporting car accidents.

Friday, December 13/2024

 

Friday the thirteenth. Day begins with a black cat walking across the patio in front of the floor to ceiling south facing window. Twice, actually.

Not an evil omen though. The rest of the day mild and sunny. Temperature about 18 in the shade. Happily, not warm enough to prevent Christmassy fare with our group at the Blue Song. 

Horst has made glühwein, a spiced mulled wine that is his specialty. He himself is German but says the recipe is Swedish. Not normally a fan of mulled wine, considering it too sweet and usually both uninspired and tepid. This is none of the above - well spiced, just below simmering, and containing both raisins and tiny pieces of walnut. Surprised both that he adds walnuts to the drink and that it works.

Many of the members have brought homemade baking as well, so a pretty cheerful lot out in the sunshine.

Stop at the little supermarket on the way home and see that there is sourdough bread in their oven with nine minutes baking time remaining. Well worth waiting for.

Thursday,December 12/2024

 

Day begins ridiculously early. Wake up about three and reach, as usual, for a tablet in order to play a go-back-to-sleep podcast. Discover there is no internet connection. J, by now awake, checks router. And, since its plug is imperfect, replaces the  adaptor with a better one, currently being used (no pun intended) by the kettle. And, duly replaces that adaptor with another, which promptly shorts. No problem - except that all the power in the flat promptly disappears. Have battery lamp. Panel by the front door. No difficulty. Except that resetting the main power switch in the panel has no effect.

So, no power and more or less no phone. We, like most people and businesses here (even major ones like Turkish Airlines) normally use WhatsApp for phone calls and WhatsApp is wifi dependent - very handy most of the time. Do have an international UK based sim but like most foreign sims very expensive, as in about £1 ($1.80 CAD) a minute. Presumably  retaliatory. Suitable really only for emergency calls - which, thanks to WhatsApp and other VOIP services, is all it should normally be called on to do. Not particularly suitable for explanatory discussions with electrical firms.

But light comes with the dawn. And J, ever resourceful, checks underneath the building for a main power switch for the flat. Yes it exists and yes it works. Coffee coming up. Though does confirm our assumption that the wifi problem is separate from electrical considerations and unlikely to be down to our unit. So will eventually have to contact internet provider to inquire. Simplest just to go there?

Shortly after nine van pulls up with new gas cylinder as ordered for the cooker. Driver, like most delivery men these days, pulls out a mobile, presumably to ascertain that he has the correct address and we are in fact home before hauling the cylinder upstairs. Lean out of the window and wave him in.

And, a few minutes later, internet connection restored. All is well.

Wednesday, December 11/2024

 

Two weeks to Christmas. Definitely will not be white, though not by any means our first green one. Think it is now twenty Christmases in Cyprus plus one in Cuba and one in England. And a couple post-retirement back in Canada courtesy of the lock down. Was thinking last year that this was the first one in North Cyprus but actually not. There were four or five when we were staying in the South but took a Christmas break with Jane and Bill at Ship Inn this side of Girne. Ship Inn used to specialise in Christmas and New Year breaks aimed mainly at a British clientele. Christmas dinner through New Year’s Eve festivities complete with belly dancer. Initially pretty good but by 2017 they seemed to be declining in inspiration and possibly finances. Catering dropping to boarding school standard, leading us to opt for the place B&J had bought near Ipswich for 2018.

Christmas is not a holiday in the mainly Muslim North, although restaurants and presumably hotels often have a festive tree and British and European expats do celebrate. The Tulips cancer support charity has had Christmassy decorations, CDs and clothing for sale on the last couple of market Saturdays. On the other hand we are spared weeks of Christmas music in the supermarkets as experienced in the South where pleas to “let it snow, let it snow, let it snow”were a presumed spur to Christmas purchasing. Did encounter a woman at our little supermarket this afternoon looking without much optimism for mincemeat.

And J has put up our minimalist decorations saved from previous years. Chiefly the people - little wooden figures first acquired at a garage sale in Canada many years ago. In theory I am a purist, thinking decorations should go up Christmas Eve and come down January 6 at Epiphany, but it is always cheering to see our little wooden friends making their annual appearance.

Tuesday, December 10/2024

 

Temperatures still hitting 20 or slightly above, and warmer of course in the sun. So take advantage of reading outside. Excellent lighting for “real”books, though not so much for ebooks. Current “aloud”reading is David Jason’s autobiography. We know him best, though not exclusively, for A Touch of Frost series, but he is probably best loved in the U.K. for Only Fools and Horses. Entertaining writer as well as actor and no sign of a ghost writer either.

Accompanying drinks are posing on the wall separating us from the next door neighbour’s grape arbour, now in dormant season. Raspberry vodka from the same source as blood orange gin, though sadly not nearly as nice. Maybe because vodka is less complex than gin, but it’s way too sweet. Yes, the crayon colour should have put us off. Second childhood. Adding extra unflavoured vodka did help. The contents of the glasses actually feature diluted colour and sweetness, though undiluted alcohol obviously.

The fig tree across the road is not in dormant season. It has quite a few figs, though none are ripe yet. Their lack of maturity has been no deterrent to passersby sampling them. And rather more than sampling. A couple today came equipped with a plastic supermarket bag and harvested reasonably thoroughly. We can hardly complain as a) the figs are not ours and b) we would eventually have helped ourselves, though a little less blatantly. Did look up unripe figs, possibly unworthily hoping for karma. But it seems that much like unripe tomatoes they have some excellent uses such as in pickles.

*Note: For reasons best known to itself, my blog program has decided that words containing an apostrophe should precede said apostrophe with a double space. 1) Much phrasing becomes unreasonably awkward when trying to avoid apostrophes. 2) Possible solutions not high on my to-be-googled list. Have decided to let text have its way until - with luck - it gets tired of the silliness.

Monday, December 9/2024

Media, social and antisocial, not enormously comforting these days. Well, maybe never was. Memories of my daughter then aged about nine asking why I watched the news. It's always the same. Queried this, as had assumed the essence of the word was in the “new”bit. Oh, you know - inflation is up, the dollar is down, and there is fighting on the other side of the world. 

No change except in the details. A little - ok quite a little - less patience with newscasters and analysts who have got it wrong though. Not people who come from a different part of the political spectrum than I do. Most people do. But not a lot of time for people whose job is to present and explain who are seriously underinformed or have bought a world view that benefits only Elon Musk. Or for people who are prepared to write off whole nations as undeserving of human dignity.  Hey, we have been to Russia, Palestine, China, Syria, Lebanon. … 

And we remember the past. Or a fairly impressive number of decades of it. Not to be confused with remembering what we went upstairs for. So when a reputable reporter seems to have no idea that the group he is praising as liberators are the same lot who cheerfully beheaded an American reporter they had captured not that many years ago….

Time for a nightcap and a podcast to go to sleep with. Know much better than to listen to current events at bedtime. First choice is ancient history. The Greeks and the Persians did bad things to each other but it was a very long time ago and nothing anyone can do about it now. And the annoyances it comes with are minor, sometimes amusing. So I wake up to a pretty good historian referring to Salamis, as in Battle of. Except he pronounces it like pizza sausages. Have I been doing it wrong all these years?  Repair to Google. Turns out historian is using the regular (Italian?) American pronunciation. The rest of us do say Sal-a-miss. With the emphasis on Sal.  

Actually do have access to quite a number of major newspapers. Which is nice considering the deliberately misleading message FB is pleased to keep posting suggesting that it is entirely the fault of the Canadian government that they have removed anything that was sourced from a newspaper. And not just Canadian papers. If a Turkish Cypriot correspondent  posts a short segment from a local news article describing a car accident then FB feels piously obliged to remove it. Not currently living in Canada, story not from a Canadian paper, bloke posting it never been to Canada. Hell, one of our iPads not even bought in Canada. Absolutely maddening.

Rant over. Time to turn off the news and return from the age of print to the Bronze Age. The peaceful days when the village of Lapta moved uphill to escape from Arab raids.

Sunday, December 8/2024

 One of the sadder inevitabilities of aging is that friends die. One reason for having friends younger as well as older than oneself. So today spot the obituary of a friend I had known for over sixty years. 

Robert Gibbs; poet, short story writer, editor, teacher. First met him when I was a young student at UNB where Bob was both teaching and completing his doctorate and also became friends with his sister Jean whom we visit regularly when going through London. Do have a number of his books, though of course none with us, so will have to wait to revisit them when we are back in Canada.

Had just thought of him the other day as people are preparing for Christmas. Robert had studied at Cambridge back in the days when no one would have considered flying home across the Atlantic just for a short Christmas break. He recounted remarking to his landlady that the tea tasted strange on Christmas morning. “Oh my dear,”she said “I always put a little gin in it for Christmas.”

Well, this is a warmer climate and we will keep the gin separate from the tea but still raise a glass. Robert, RIP. 🍷🍷

Saturday, December 7/2024

 

Love the walk back from the Saturday market past the trees, with the mountains in the background. No major purchases but three books about which we get to feel happily virtuous as the stalls are supporting charities. And two Chelsea buns about which we should feel somewhat less virtuous - but equally happy.

Various accounts mentioning that the price of potatoes is dropping, although the Cyprus Mail (South) is pleased to report on a demonstration in Nicosia in which protesting trade union members threw potatoes at the office of TRNC Prime Minister Unal Ustel. Note that’s at the office and not at the man himself. There  is a particular satisfaction for Greek Cypriot sources in publishing negative stories about the North, and the term ‘prime minister’ is put in quotation marks. Slightly less offensive than the standard Southern news reference in the past to the “so-called prime minister” or “so-called government”. But maybe that was only in television news and not print.

Courtesy Cyprus Mail

Friday, December 6/2024

 Not particularly unusual to see a tractor on the road in our area, though less common to find it lined up with the other vehicles outside the supermarket. Note that this is a Massey Ferguson, although that no longer means Canadian and it was probably made in France.

Lapta is a village at heart. Citrus, olive and carob trees have grown here for centuries and it is not uncommon to go past paddocks with goats or to see chickens on the roads or hear a rooster at dawn. Particularly true as the community spreads uphill from the sea and the commercial strip along the main road from Girne.

Thursday, December 5/2024

 

Only a couple of weeks until the winter solstice, and the flowering shrubs are distinctly past their glorious prime, but still a joy walking down to the little supermarket and enjoying the blooms on the way.

J notes that the price of coffee has gone up. He buys the beans and grinds them for our morning coffee. Makes it in the French press and brings me a cup in bed in the morning. Thoroughly spoiled. Turkish coffee is normally sold already ground - and as finely as talcum powder. Which doesn’t work well in a French press, so we don’t do it, in spite of knowing how and actually possessing the little cups.

Nonetheless, today is World Turkish Coffee Day. And we do drink Turkish coffee. Or Greek - same thing bearing in mind national sensitivities when you order. Known in the South as Cyprus coffee, which you could probably say here as well without offending anyone unduly. It’s also necessary to say how sweet you want it.  The coffee is made in a small long handled pot - preferably over hot sand but an electric or gas burner will do. If sugar is to be included it must be added to the coffee and water at the start, and each cup is made individually. Once found myself in the South being asked how I wanted my coffee and only able to think of sade - Turkish for plain (or black). The correct answer would have been sketos - Greek for unsweetened. (Alternatives would be metrio or glyko for slightly sweet or very sweet). No one adds milk in either country. Could only hope they were unable to tell what this foreigner was saying.

For many years in the South it was normal for cafés to offer Nescafé as a (slightly more expensive!) alternative to Cyprus coffee. Have no idea when this was first considered acceptable restaurant fare. During the war? Now the standard alternative offering seems to be Americano, which does owe its origins to wartime and American soldiers who were unhappy with small cups of thick Greek or Turkish coffee and were therefore fobbed off with espresso diluted with extra hot water. Not the same as  brewed coffee - and suspect them of saving up the espresso concentrate and adding boiling water at the time a cup is ordered. But this is mere digression on world Turkish coffee day.

Wednesday, December 4/2024

 

Courtesy of Cyprus Mirror

What passes for winter storms seems to be everywhere, the insult value somewhat greater where it has followed unusually pleasant autumn weather. Have watched unenviously reports of heavy snowfalls, cancellations, closed roads and major - sometimes fatal - accidents in various parts of northwest Ontario. Quite content to be here enjoying Cypriot version of winter. 

The Meteorology Department had issued a strong rainfall warning, with heavy showers expected to hit the region starting December 3. Residents urged to take precautions against potential risks, including floods, hail, and stormy winds. Well, why not cover all bases? Forgot to mention earthquakes, although one does occur off the coast of Türkiye near Alanya late this morning. Measuring 4.9 on the Richter scale and felt in Nicosia although not around here. Grateful that the heavy rain and stormy winds held off - just - until we got home last night. Storms all night, though and much of today. Good day for staying in cosily with books and tea. 

And discover this morning that the storm has removed one of the electrocuted bats from the wires.

Tuesday, December 3/2024

 Kyrenia Amateur Dramatic Association (KADS) has its annual Christmas performance, a comic whodunnit called Christmas Carols in Laptaland. Written and directed by Beverley, with a number of our Blue Song friends in the cast and otherwise involved. No surprise to those who had seen him before but Ralph turns out to be an excellent comic actor. Chicken dinner in the intermission. 

Rain mostly holds off and we catch what is probably the last dolmuş of the evening about 9:30. Pleased as the walk home would be about four kilometres, though admittedly it isn't cold. 

Monday, December 2/2024

Courtesy kibrispostasi.com

Investigation continues in the case of a bank manager brought to court on charges of embezzling 38,160,000 Turkish lira. Of course amounts in lira always sound astronomical but in hard currency this would not have been trivial - $1,564,603 CAD, £880,214. 

Cyprus Mirror circumspectly refers to the accused only as BK, employed by a bank branch in Nicosia, and even avoids mentioning the employee’s gender. Though this discretion may be made easier by the idiosyncrasies of the Turkish language, in which the story was presumably first written. Third person singular lacks gender in Turkish, so that he, she (and it) would all be represented by the Turkish pronoun o. However, did see an earlier account of the misappropriation in English where the manager’s name was given as Bahar Korakan and the pronoun used was she. In any case, it’s a small country and presumably the only people who would not already have heard the name of the accused would be foreigners.

The embezzlement seems to have been going on for two years or more, during which time the woman bought two BMW’s and lost a lot of money in casinos. This last is more than irresponsible - it’s also illegal. Casinos are legal and a major tourist attraction but TRNC citizens are not permitted to visit them, although it’s not news that some do. Due to the seriousness of the crimes, and also because she is considered a flight risk - and “flight” in this case could mean simply crossing the border to the South, albeit showing passport - Korakan is to remain in custody while the investigation continues. One suspects that otherwise the temptation to head for the border with a forged or stolen passport would be fairly high as the crimes in question are punishable by life in prison.

 

Sunday, December 1/2024

Courtesy KibrisOnAir.com

Have made no organised effort to keep track of the number of serious traffic accidents in TRNC over the last month but it seems excessive. And almost always down to poor driving rather than bad roads or inappropriate speed limits. Lots put down to drivers losing control of the car which has to be inattention, alcohol or excessive speed. Whiteouts and black ice not problems here. Penalties actually are fairly severe and arrests at the scene quite common - handcuff first and analyse the situation later - but as with many other crimes massive penalties seem not to be much deterrent. 

Courtesy Cyprus Mail

A Turkish Cypriot friend warned us to be careful, suggesting that the worst problem is poor drivers from Arab countries. However published names of offenders are almost always Turkish. Although this doesn’t distinguish between Cypriots and Turkish mainlanders. Which could be part of the problem as driving is on the left in Cyprus, both North and South, whereas in Türkiye it’s on the right. Addresses provided in news reports are almost always Cypriot though.

Quite happy not to drive here.

Saturday, November 30/2024

As elsewhere, food prices have been rising in North Cyprus. Some produce remains much cheaper than other places we’ve stayed - oranges, lemons, onions, carrots, aubergines, sweet peppers, eggs. And wine - though that’s probably a question of tax. Others much the same as elsewhere. And some products significantly more expensive, particularly those imported from places other than Türkiye. 

Recently though, the price of potatoes soared. Cyprus potatoes have an international reputation, probably due to the quality of the soil. The price increases led to calls to boycott. People asking other consumers to substitute bulgur or pasta until prices became more reasonable. And in fact we went from buying fewer potatoes to none at all as the price hit 100 lira ($4.03 CAD, £2.26) per kilo. Adding insult to injury this coinciding with a load of particularly old and ugly looking spuds. 

The government has apparently agreed as of Thursday to allow imported potatoes from Türkiye. However, prices have dropped, though not precipitously, before any of the agreed imports can have arrived. And the current bin at our grocery store has especially attractive potatoes. Leading one to wonder if conspiracy theories regarding who profits might have some merit.

Note rather late in the day that today is the feast of St Andrew. So a wee dram is called for. And it is wee indeed as there is almost no whisky left in the bottle of Scotch. There is a bottle of Irish whiskey (note the difference in spelling, which some take very seriously) with rather more remaining but drinking it on St Andrew’s Day wouldn’t be right.

Friday, November 29/2024

 Info today thanks to Ralph re the power failure yesterday. Apparently a high voltage line broke and the power plants were taken offline. An hour and a half outage seems reasonably good considering. 

Temperatures are reportedly running two to four degrees below seasonal norms. Not too bad. High today of eighteen. Sunset 16:09 though, as we creep nearer to the winter solstice. And always a little earlier on the northern slope of the mountains.

Regular Friday afternoon gathering at the Blue Song. Not too cool for draft beer outside. 

Sarah, to husband Ralph: Please don’t put your wine on my tab - I don’t have a tab.

Thursday, November 28/2024

 

The first electrocuted bat across from our window has been joined by a second. Looks like a really bad omen. A warning along the lines of decapitated heads of traitors displayed on spikes on London Bridge in Tudor times? Should probably be examining our consciences, but instead repair to Google. And discover that bats being electrocuted on wires not particularly rare despite our not having encountered the phenomenon before. Unlike birds, bats tend to hang upside down and are thus quite likely to touch two separate wires and become the circuit connector.

Had this second bat waited a few hours he might not have died as the power is turned off in our area for an hour and a half around supper time - well, to be precise as I am simmering a pasta sauce. Once more reason to be pleased about cooking with gas, although less light on the subject than usual.

Wednesday, November 26/2024

 J notes this morning that the missing Turkish flag on the mountain has been replaced already. Winds now back to normal levels. And on the other (east) side of us are the Turkish, Turkish Cypriot, and Swedish flags at the home of some still unidentified neighbour, presumably Swedish. Did meet a couple of Swedish people at the gathering in Çatalköy last Wednesday but they lived on the east side of the island. 

The Republic of Cyprus (South) has been making noises about wishing to join NATO, thus furthering the island’s traditional role as an unsinkable aircraft carrier. In particular President Christodoulides has spoken with outgoing President Biden and outlined “a bold plan for Cyprus’ future with NATO, including the possibility of US forces staying permanently on the island”. Hard to imagine what visions of dollar signs danced in his head. Civilian protests in Larnaca on the weekend opposing the growing militarization of Cyprus are unlikely to have moved him much. However Türkiye is a member of NATO and has pointed out that it has, and would use, its veto to prevent Cyprus’s accession. Though Türkiye too may have its price.

Tuesday, November 26/2024

 Winds have died down. Whitecaps have gone. Sea is a calm cerulean blue. A little cool but only light jacket weather. Down to the grocery store to replenish supplies. Can smell yeast as we walk in. Long white loaves in the oven but, happily, still one loaf of sourdough on the shelf, still warm.

Two dogs on the sidewalk opposite the store. They’ve found the sunny side of the street. Like most Cypriot owned dogs they have collars but spend their days unleashed and usually bothering no one. Frequently on the steps outside the store but never try to enter.

Posted today: ‘Two minibus [dolmuş] drivers came to blows this morning over an argument on the Lapta-Girne route on Ecevit Street Girne. Both men ages 36 and 25 ended up in hospital and were arrested.’ The dolmuşes are privately owned. They’re licensed by the municipality but are not a municipal service. The routes are determined by the municipality but the drivers are essentially in competition and it’s possible for an aggressive driver to overtake and scoop up passengers while his competitor is allowing an elderly person to board slowly. Have witnessed arguments as drivers got out of their vehicles to face off but never physical violence. It is true that the police practice here seems to be to arrest first, determine guilt second, and finally release those deemed not guilty.

Monday, November 25/2024

Courtesy gundemkibris.com

Apparently wind speed recorded yesterday at 118 kilometres per hour, as in 73.5 mph in old money. Certainly people reported having difficulty standing on the beach. We were content to observe the whitecaps from afar. Also reports of boats sinking in Girne harbour, which is scarcely surprising. 

Blowing today, but nothing like gale force. Temperature much lower than yesterday though, presumably thanks to the steady north winds coming from Türkiye. High today a pretty unusual 13.The Cyprus Mail claims temperatures will be unseasonably low until December 20. Am choosing to believe other sources that show steady recovery reaching twentyish by the weekend.

Sunday, November 24/2024

Courtesy Gündem Kıbrıs

Crazy weather, though it did come with advance warning. Almost entirely wind, much of it gale force coming in from the north, that is the sea side. We can see two large flags on the mountainside a little to the west of us and regularly check them for wind strength and direction. One is Turkish and the other the flag of North Cyprus.

We check them this morning and discover that the Turkish flag has been ripped off completely, leaving only a thin red ribbon where the top used to be. This must have happened in the night but the winds keep on full blast all day. The mayor of Girne, fifteen kilometres to the east of us has asked people to stay inside unless they absolutely have to go out. Not only are falling roofs and trees a hazard but some roads are impassable.

There have been power failures in parts of the island, though the electric company has done a pretty decent job of keeping up with repairs. Our municipality has told people that they can call the ‘solutions’ line. Probably a quirk of translation, but sounds so much nicer than a problem line.

A good day to stay in and read books and drink tea. Our power was off for a couple of hours but not particularly inconvenient as we cook with gas not electricity.

Saturday, November 23/2024

 Saturday is market day and unlike last week - also unlike the predictions for today - the weather is lovely. Low twenties and clear. 

Tulips, the cancer support stall, is featuring Christmas items - decorations, CDs, cards, fruitcake and such. Actually not really things we want, but it’s cheerful. Do buy a couple of samosas from a man recommended by Beverley who has been bringing curries to the market for the last couple of weeks. They’re small but very good, with a fair kick of heat. Also, from a different booth, a couple of Chelsea buns. After which I discover that my definition of Chelsea bun is inaccurate. Included nuts and way more dried fruit. Guess that is sometimes the case, but really if you want a sticky sweet extravaganza then make your own. Which I have no intention of doing - and would charge A LOT for - if J let them leave the house at all.

Friday, November 22/2024

 

One of our favourite things about Cyprus is the oranges. A winter crop just hitting its stride despite a too dry summer and autumn. And easy to take for granted here as I note there are none in the house and go outside to pick a couple for breakfast. As J says like being able to step outside the door in northern Ontario and spot a small Christmas tree. 

But orange trees are under threat and the threat is moving closer. A small insect known to transmit citrus greening disease (officially Huanglongbing) has been identified in the orchards of the Republic of Cyprus (South). The disease is deadly. It blocks nutrient flow through the citrus tree, eventually killing it. Florida has lost 90% of its orange production and the disease has already spread to Spain. If it develops in the South it will inevitably spread to the North of Cyprus. Pathogens are less respecters of borders than people are. Can only hope for concerted preventive action.