Wednesday, December 27/2017

We aim for Lefkoşa (Nicosia), and eventually arrive there. It’s only twenty some kilometres away, but the roads and roundabouts aren’t well marked. No doubt the locals know where they’re headed, but we very nearly find ourselves crossing the border into the South. But we do, rather by accident reach the gates of an army base where a friendly young soldier dismisses our government issue tourist map and draws us directions to the old walled city, which is actually quite close. 

Lunch across from the Buyuk Khan, the old caravanserai where traders (and their camels) used to shelter for the night. Then a short wander past the hamam, the Turkish bath occupying a building that began life as a church long enough ago that the passing centuries have left the entryway well below street level. Round the corner to the covered market beside the mosque that was also once a church. The old city does indeed look more prosperous than it did when we first made its acquaintance about sixteen years ago, but there’s a little sadness and nostalgia for the older (though probably poorer) old city where there were more artisans and fewer designer goods. Jane does buy a very nice reversible wool wrap though, which comes in handy as the temperature drops a little.