We live our lives forever taking leave - Rilke

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Monday, 26 November 2012

Thursday, November 22/2012





Last day in what used to be called the rose city, from the reddish buildings. Visit the artisan centre. Its a wonderful spot in the old city because it combines many of the local arts and crafts and it's possible in some cases to watch the people at work - weaving carpets, painting on wood, making sandals or doing metalwork. There is jewellery and paintings - a bit production line for tourists in some cases but also a place where the craftsmen can work in peaceful surroundings and the visitors can watch and shop without any hassle or pressure. A relief after the souks. One shop features argan oil. Originally the nuts were processed through the digestive tract of the goat and retrieved from the feces - does make one wonder who first had the idea and why. Now the pressing is done mechanically and itès possible to buy first cold press oil used for cooking or oil prized for the skin and the hair.

Last meal in the square as well. The water sellers are asking to have their photos taken -  for a price. Don't think they actually sell much, if any, water these days, and appearing in a red suit with a decorated pointed hat probably does deserve some reward. The mussel stands look attractive but we want one last lamb tagine. We also want to try pastilla, a Moroccan specialty as a starter. All right but not to be added to the repertoire, even though it sounds a bit odd. Actually it is a bit odd, but Rolf, a German man staying at the hotel, has said we should taste it and we do. It's chicken cooked inside pastry - about six inches in diameter. The unusual bit is that it hasn't quite made up its mind whether it's a sweet or a savoury, as the pastry is dusted with sugar and cinnamon and the filling includes almonds as well as chicken. We split one as a starter. All right, but not to be added to the repertoire, and served at the sort of tepid temperature that is less than ideal for chicken. Actually, a number of Moroccan offerings seem odd - like the apple juice with milk (which we haven't tried). But the tagine that follows is excellent, and sizzling hot, with the lamb and olives and vegetables still bubbling when the conical lids are lifted.

There are restaurants nearby that specialise in rooftop terraces for the view "panoramique." But there is an advantage to our view as well, on the edge of the crowd and more a part of it, watching the women with long coats as brightly coloured as saris or the teenage boys showing off their acrobatics. A bit more subject to the sales pitches though, ranging from children selling small packs of tissues to the man who offers J an exquisite picture made, rather sadly, from butterfly wings. He would  give us a good price, but price, unfortunately, isn't the problem.