Sunset today in Lapta is, in theory, at 16:36. But as we return from the commercial strip along the seafront we witness the last traces of sun disappearing behind the mountain peak - at a quarter to three. Well, Lapta is a village that sprawls up the north side of a mountain and we’re a kilometre or so up.
But at half past four we can see by the rosy glow on the clouds that sunset has not quite finished on the south side if the mountain range,
We could, of course, spend our winters on the southern slopes. Would still be North Cyprus although shops and restaurants would be pretty thin on the ground unless we moved to Lefkoșa (Nicosia). But the real loss would be the sea. No sea view or sea walks on the other side, and we’re not about to trade.
The supermarkets seem to be making some concessions toward Christmas with snowmen or Santas on windows. They’re cheerful though not really part of the culture. On the counter in front of the tobacco products are three or four gift baskets, thoughtfully provided for customers buying cigars and remembering the need to take a gift to a friend who does celebrate the season.
More interesting is the tip box. Not empty either, though it could have been primed with a few lira as a hint. Assuming the partly eaten Snickers bar on top was abandoned by a busy customer and not intended as a tip. The box is obviously there for the benefit - if that’s the word - of foreign residents or tourists as it’s labelled in English. Though hard to imagine who even among the foreigners would feel compelled to tip when buying cigarettes.The Turkish word for tip would be Bahșiș - similar to baksheesh, an Arabic term well known throughout the Middle East and North Africa for gratuities (or sometimes coerced payments).


