Tuesday, December 31/2024

 

Happy New Year

Heavy rain, reported locally as 56 kg per square meter. Have never seen it measured that way. There do seem to be sites that purport to translate to more familiar terms but don’t pursue them. Content myself with wondering whether this does or does not mean roofs will fall in. At any rate ours not the worst. The next village rejoiced in 74 kg per square meter. 

Meanwhile a heading in the Cyprus Mail (South) announces Bicommunal Action to Overcome Alien Invasions. It does take some significant impetus to persuade Greek and Turkish Cypriots to co-operate in any official capacity. But can see that a Martian attack might indeed do it. However the actual story slightly less dramatic if equally worthy. Turns out that scientists and farmers from both sides of the border intend to work together to protect the island from invasive species.

And there’s an even happier story in the same paper which I am pleased to assume is accurate despite not having spotted it yet in a Northern source. The TRNC government, which yesterday announced a five percent VAT increase on a huge number of goods including many basic food items which had not previously been taxed at all, has apparently had second thoughts and decided not to impose the increase, which was to have been implemented tomorrow. Will of course affect us - or it seems not affected us - but the poorest people would as always have been hit the hardest as raising the price on food - even the most basic - would effectively have wiped out any advantage gained from the recent increase in minimum wage.

Rain 56 kg sa m

74 kg sa m

Bicommunal action to overcome alien invasions

Scientists and farmers from both sides of the line need to work together to protect the island’s trees from invasive species, 

Monday, December 30/2024

Hanging a towel out on the drying rack and spot the little cat that was sleeping beside our patio the other day. Curled up in the same spot near the honeysuckle and so well camouflaged by long grass that she would have been easy to miss. Can see that it’s a safe spot and suspect that she associates it with J as she examined his nearby chair pretty thoroughly last week, although he has prudently only left food on the other side of the road.

Really don’t want to acquire a cat. We’re not here year round so it would only have to be abandoned in the spring. Also think this is a female and it is definitely not neutered as the vets clip the corner of an ear after neutering. Absolutely no desire to find ourselves responsible for a litter of kittens. And not at all likely that it has a home if the edge of our patio is the best place to spend a chilly night.

Sunday, December 29/2024

Down to the grocery store for the first time since Christmas Eve - having been pretty well stocked up. But now in need of yoghurt and cheese and bananas and tomato paste. And a surprise. The woman at the till hands us a small bag and opens it so we can see what is inside. A bottle of dry white Turkish wine, a small package of ground coffee and a little packet of salted peanuts. Christmas? Well, maybe. But this is not a country that celebrates Christmas. Not a public holiday. Language skills not up to a discussion on either side. But we are regular customers, and it is lovely.

Current read alouds are Believe Nothing Until it is Officially Denied, biography of the late Claud Cockburn, radical journalist, written by his youngest son, Patrick Cockburn, one of our favourite Middle East based journalists. A compelling read. And, for light relief, The Colours of all the Cattle, by the indefatigable Alexander McCall Smith - eighteenth in the Number 1 Ladies’Detective Agency series. Always a pleasure. 

Saturday, December 28/2024

The neighbours with the orchard opposite us have started a fire in their outdoor oven. Which always leads us to wonder about the welfare of their goat. At one point last year there were definitely two goats but recently have only heard one. Though really there are only two possible reasons for raising goats - for milk or meat. Nobody wants them as crazy pets. And crazy they are. There are frequent complaints about goats breaking into gardens and demolishing fruit trees. Apparently quite good at defeating metal fencing.

Do not remember having seen goat yoghurt in the grocery store. Or meat, for that matter, although could well have missed it. The Turkish is keçi - which can also be the term for a stubborn person.

Friday, December 27/2024

 Has rained much of the day, although not particularly distressing. December usually the wettest month and we had pretty good weather for Christmas. Can see from the radar map why looking out our north (seaside) window often shows black clouds when looking out the south (mountainside) window shows a brightening sky. Türkiye is about 110 km north of us - can see it on a clear day - and the weather there is often stormier. The south shore of Cyprus, on the other hand, is about 80 km south of us and the island is most frequently sunny. 

Speculation re the striking municipal workers had led us to wonder whether that meant the garbage would not be collected, but heard the truck go by late yesterday evening. For some reason this is usually a job done at night. Meanwhile in the South fake bin men have been reported going house to house asking for Christmas tips. The history of Boxing Day notwithstanding it had never crossed my mind that those collecting rubbish were particularly deserving of Christmas gratuities. Were people simply embarrassed into ante-ing up?

Meanwhile in the North a man fell foul of the law for different, but completely avoidable reasons. Nicosia residents phoned police to complain about a man playing music at excessive volume. Turns out he was an illegal resident and in attempt to escape he jumped from a ten meter high window and broke his leg. As Ralph, of TFR put it “if you have to fly under the radar and can’t manage it…’..

Thursday, December 26/2024

Evergreen? This country is always green. Although the carob trees seem to be going through a quiet winter phase. Happily the citrus trees are just coming into full fruit. Told J yesterday we were going to need another lemon as I was making the apple crumble and he went out and was back in five minutes with an armful of lemons. Much as he could have done in Canada with chives or oregano.

Apparently general strike of public service workers begins today. Not sure who that involves although guess we may find out. Rubbish collection? Large bins everywhere although suppose they would fill up faster than one might think if not emptied. Does this mean that if there were a power failure no one would be working to fix it? Handicapped by 1) list of affected unions uses only initials; 2) relevant information mostly in Turkish; and 3) FB maddeningly continues to insist that the Canadian government is responsible for its failure to let me read news - from North Cypriot and Turkish newspapers on a tablet in Cyprus posted by a group based in North Cyprus. 😵‍💫

Wednesday, December 25/2024

 If a bloke’s day begins with a drink and a cigar in the sunshine on the patio then it must be Christmas.

Pretty laid back Christmas. Twentieth one on the island. Think it’s the eighth in the North as there were several with Bill and Jane at Ship Inn in Girne when we were staying in the South.

No pressure re Christmas dinner as we have all day to make it. Nice plump chicken to roast in the oven and J makes dressing. We’ve opted for apple crumble for dessert. Not a problem despite lack of either measuring cups or scales but the custard is trickier. Would happily have gone with custard powder but in its absence guesstimate the amounts of milk and sugar and go with four egg yolks plus vanilla - and no corn starch. Not a hard call since we don’t have any. And luck is with us.

Pyrotechnics as well, as a thunder storm, happily not connected to a power outage, starts just as we begin eating. Dramatic end to a quiet day.

Tuesday, December 24/2024

Christmas Eve. Beautiful sunny, warm day so we’re off to the strip to get the missing bits for tomorrow. Dolmuş down to the Russian shop for salted herring and German garlic pork sausage. Surprised to meet John there also collecting sausage for Christmas.

 Then down to Besmar for veg. Potatoes on sale for 40 lira ($1.63 CAD, £0.91) a kilo, which is noticeably better than our local, though a fairly unimpressive commentary on the government’s effort to lower the price. Always nice produce here. Then Şokmar. Peanuts and - happy discovery - cigars. Dominican Republic. Not Cuba, but close. Could have custard powder here but expensive - and, more importantly, 800 grams is more than we’d use in two winters. So now committed to making my own without benefit of Bird’s. And last stop Ileli. Vanilla and J, bless him, has discovered Branston pickle. Still haven’t forgotten accidentally leaving a large jar of same on a bus in Türkiye in 2001, though the regret has faded somewhat.

So, errands accomplished. Walk up to Ankara Caddesi to take a dolmuş home. Well timed too. Dark clouds have formed and we’re no sooner back than it rains. But we have everything.

Monday, December 23/2024

Remembering past Christmases as I come across this photo from 2017. We still have the stained glass - OK, technically stained plastic - Christmas tree. It’s up on the window this year as well. But it loses a little in translation without a palm tree growing immediately outside the window.

And from the previous year, 2016, the memory box on Facebook produces this little gem:

‘Cyprus banks rock! Went to cash point this morning and too slow to prevent receipt being sucked slowly back into the works. Inquired within and they kindly retrieved it. Noticed table by the door laden with mixed nuts, dried fruit and crisps. Would I like some wine? I hesitate. Not quite 10 AM. Sun not only not over the yard arm but not in evidence at all. It's raining. But I should have a drink to warm up, they say. So I accept a small glass. In addition to wine there is zivania (local spirit) and two kinds of whisky on the table. Much laughter amongst the staff when I tell them that in Canada banks regard coffee and biscuits as a treat. "Here we do it for the customers on Christmas Eve and New Year's Eve."’

Do have to admit, though, that this particular bank branch office is no more. Gone in the international wave of small bank branch closures.

Sunday, December 22/2024

Missed having a jigger. Not particularly abstemious but prefer knowing what’s in the glass to the general slosh approach. So, happy to note that the little Turkish coffee cup - of which we have four, along with tiny saucers, awaiting the grand occasion on which we have guests and make Turkish coffee - is just the right size to serve as a jigger. 

At the grocery store J asks if I need sugar. I say we have sugar. This proves not to be the case, so that goes on tomorrow’s list. Assembling ingredients before Christmas, not that stores will close down on Christmas, but we may. And it may rain.

Note to self: there is no such thing as too many onions.

Saturday, December 21/2024

The winter solstice. Shortest day of the year and a sun cloud mix. But it’s warm enough. Hits twenty and the dogs are happy to enjoy lazing in the center of the Saturday market. 

As usual the used book stall is the most enticing. Pick up Tony Benn’s More Time for Politics, his diaries for the years 2001 to 2007, 2001 being the year he retired from his half century as a member of the British parliament. We were lucky enough to see him at his second last public appearance - in London in November of 2013. He died in March of 2014, the BBC obituary noting that he was one of the few British politicians who became more left-wing after having actually served in government.

Also an Ian Rankin novel and the memoirs of Nicholas Henderson, a British diplomat who served as ambassador to Poland, Germany and France as well as representing his country in the US. So well set up for reading. A far cry from the days when e-books were non-existent and English language books so thin on the ground in some countries we visited that we read whatever we found - resulting in some unusual choices, occasionally surprisingly rewarding.

Friday, December 20/2024

 Temperature 19 today. As usual, warmer in the midday sun. Although tomorrow is the winter solstice, so sunlight somewhat abbreviated obviously. Nine hours and forty-seven minutes of sunshine today. That’s the theory at least, somewhat modified by our living on the northern slope of a mountain. The sun disappears probably close to an hour earlier than the theoretical 16:38. Call it sunset or just hiding. 

The man down the street - he who regularly picks and eats the low hanging unripe figs on his walks often brings out a chair and suns himself on the side of the road, feet up on the stone wall. His garden is pretty shady, well designed for summer lounging, but in winter the sunshine is all roadside so he’s frequently out taking advantage of the warmth, sometimes with a radio on his lap as he follows a football match. A good spot for drying a pair of boots or some clothes as well. Fortunately nothing particularly attractive on display as the first time I saw the small assortment I assumed wrongly that he had, as is sometimes the local custom, set out a few unwanted garments in a curbside swap arrangement.

Thursday, December 19/2024

 Someone who offers both in person and online Turkish language classes - and possibly English language classes as well - posts occasional little samplers. Collections of objects or useful phrases. Nicely done and reasonably helpful. But if I am not seeming to memorise the few pages then suspect there would not be a lot of point to signing up for the classes.

My excuse has always been that Turkish is not an Indo-European language and this is true, despite the presence of obvious loan words. Note the pineapple in the chart. However even a very little of a language is better than none. The samplers include single words for “I am lost” and “I do not understand”which could prove extremely helpful in the right - or more probably wrong - circumstances. Know less than half a dozen words in Arabic but they include the words for “no”and “thank you”and did see regular use in Cairo.

Wednesday, December 18/2024

By dolmuş to Girne on errands, the first of which is to change the Canadian money remaining in my purse to Turkish lira. Wondering how to say bureau de change in Turkish and it occurs to me that I do not actually know how to say it in English. Turns out that Google Translate has the same difficulty and gives the English as  - bureau de change. Does provide the Turkish though - döviz bürosu. 

There are several of them, including four tripping over each other on a main street going down toward the harbour. The first three give precisely the same quote, amounting to 22 lira to the Canadian dollar. I would have guessed at that point that any other exchange would be the same, but J points out reasonably that the fourth is hardly any distance further and sure enough they come up with 23 lira to the dollar. Do learn to say Canada dollar instead of Canadian. The long a and an accent on the second syllable make it almost impossible for many speakers of other languages to understand the adjective. 

The harbour front has been renovated at length - actually at more length than originally planned as with many major projects. It is cleaner and brighter and the pathways are safer. Think that there had been infrastructure problems that needed solving as well. Medieval harbours not best designed to accommodate modern water supply and electricity. To some degree response of visitors has depended on whether they are new to the place or fell in love with its earlier incarnation, a bit down at heel but a part of history. We first stayed here twenty-four years ago, long before central Girne was full of new buildings, expensive chains, and Mercedes Benzes. Almost no tourists here midwinter then either. Doner kebabs virtually unknown. We ate traditional food at tiny cafés, choosing by the time-honoured method of pointing at whatever basins had taken our fancy. The waterfront did have old benches and we were among the few people using them in winter. We used to take books down to read there - probably warmer and with better light than our room.

Today it is bright and busy. Families and couples enjoying the sunshine. Hard to tell if the restaurants are busy and there have been complaints that the prices are inflated. We are not likely to find out as this is really tourist territory. Lovely to see a couple of young teenage boys with their fishing rods. Have no idea what their odds are but they seem to be taking it seriously. Presumably the boys are local so wonder why they are not in school in the early afternoon, but state schools usually start early but finish at lunchtime three days a week so that may explain it.

Stop at Mr Pound on the way back. Any link to the pound a bit tenuous but there is in fact only one price in the shop. Everything is 60 lira (£1.35, $2.45 CAD), tax included of course. Some things seem to be an amazing bargain. A pruning saw, for example. Chinese, of course, and not state of the art, but still. Others not so much. Suspect you could do better on small plates if you were not buying them as singles. J does not badly on a pair of reading glasses though.

Tuesday, December 17/2024

 J and I to the Blue Song for dinner. First time this season. We’re early so it’s not full and we have a table looking out over the sea breaking on the rocks. Service always unhurried and always a starter gratis. We both order sheftali [Predictive text has no idea what to make of this and changes it unhelpfully to shelf talk. Difficult to negotiate with predictive text. Did ask Siri (male, Jeeves type accent, unfailingly so polite I find myself apologising for troubling him) if he could prevent algorithms from helping me in ways that I found unhelpful but was told sadly that he was afraid that was beyond his capabilities.]

Șeftali in Turkish or Sheftalia in Greek (yes, do have a Greek keyboard but not sure it would be helpful - read Greek like a very small child, slowly and preferring capitals to script). Sausage native to Cyprus, made with pork in Greek territory and lamb or beef in Turkish areas. Meat is ground and seasoned and wrapped in caul fat rather than sausage casing. Way better than that sounds. I order it whenever possible because it’s unavailable in the rest of the world. Tonight’s is beef rather than lamb - fair enough as lamb has become unreasonably expensive - but also slightly undercooked. Not dangerously but the outside should be crisp, almost charred. So bring home the uneaten half as we’re pretty full anyway and now get to look forward to home crisped şeftali with tomorrow’s dinner.

Monday, December 16/2024

 Rainy day. Although the standard Cypriot response to rain is always but we need it. 

J fed a lean homeless cat the other day, giving it left over scraps at a spot across the road from our flat so that it would not get any ideas about our providing a permanent home and feeding station. Almost immediately a large and very overfed ginger cat elbowed in to take possession of the food. J intervened and the ginger cat moved on slowly and reluctantly. Original cat, a slim dark tortoise shell followed J gratefully back to the meal.

Today before the rain starts J spots dark tortoise shell nestled asleep in the corner of our patio underneath the orange tree. Leading us to hope he is not thinking he has found a home. Check later hoping he has gone but no, still curled up in the corner spot. Then worse possibility occurs. He is still alive? Relieved to find he has disappeared once the rain begins.

Rain stops shortly before sunset and pink clouds over the sea hint at fine weather tomorrow - with luck.

Sunday, December 15/2024

Flowering plants a little less showy than they were earlier in the season but fair enough - and there is no time of year when we are without flowers here. But meanwhile a small  green plant - well, ok, a weed - edges its way between the window frame and the shiny marble floor to announce its cheerful presence. Should remove it, and will, but you have to admire the chutzpah.

Saturday, December 14/2024

 Mad dogs and Englishmen lie out in the noonday sun. Well, don’t think he’s mad. The dogs that come to market usually seem exceptionally mild mannered. But like all dogs he knows a warm sunny spot when he sees one.

Particularly windy last night and today though. Cerulean blue sea pointed with whitecaps this morning. We’re earlier than usual at the market but nothing in particular takes our fancy. It’s really not a produce market except occasionally and on a pretty small scale. Do sometimes buy honey or eggs here. Mostly second hand clothing, books and appliances. Quite a good selection of books actually, and they’re sold in support of the animal rescue association. Both Beverley and Caroline work on that stall and they’re pretty well read.

We’d been thinking of going to the weekly market on Wednesday in Girne. It’s the equivalent of the Thursday market in Famagusta. In fact mostly the same products and sellers and we used to go regularly when we lived there. A little more awkward to get to here but certainly possible and might be nice once before Christmas. Forgot on Wednesday until it was really too late to bother but read in today’s weekly paper that we missed some minor excitement. A bag left on a wall near the roadside by the market was detonated by police in case it contained explosives. It didn’t but (suspense builds as continued on page six) only clothing items and personal belongings. Still, gave the reporters a break from reporting car accidents.

Friday, December 13/2024

 

Friday the thirteenth. Day begins with a black cat walking across the patio in front of the floor to ceiling south facing window. Twice, actually.

Not an evil omen though. The rest of the day mild and sunny. Temperature about 18 in the shade. Happily, not warm enough to prevent Christmassy fare with our group at the Blue Song. 

Horst has made glühwein, a spiced mulled wine that is his specialty. He himself is German but says the recipe is Swedish. Not normally a fan of mulled wine, considering it too sweet and usually both uninspired and tepid. This is none of the above - well spiced, just below simmering, and containing both raisins and tiny pieces of walnut. Surprised both that he adds walnuts to the drink and that it works.

Many of the members have brought homemade baking as well, so a pretty cheerful lot out in the sunshine.

Stop at the little supermarket on the way home and see that there is sourdough bread in their oven with nine minutes baking time remaining. Well worth waiting for.

Thursday,December 12/2024

 

Day begins ridiculously early. Wake up about three and reach, as usual, for a tablet in order to play a go-back-to-sleep podcast. Discover there is no internet connection. J, by now awake, checks router. And, since its plug is imperfect, replaces the  adaptor with a better one, currently being used (no pun intended) by the kettle. And, duly replaces that adaptor with another, which promptly shorts. No problem - except that all the power in the flat promptly disappears. Have battery lamp. Panel by the front door. No difficulty. Except that resetting the main power switch in the panel has no effect.

So, no power and more or less no phone. We, like most people and businesses here (even major ones like Turkish Airlines) normally use WhatsApp for phone calls and WhatsApp is wifi dependent - very handy most of the time. Do have an international UK based sim but like most foreign sims very expensive, as in about £1 ($1.80 CAD) a minute. Presumably  retaliatory. Suitable really only for emergency calls - which, thanks to WhatsApp and other VOIP services, is all it should normally be called on to do. Not particularly suitable for explanatory discussions with electrical firms.

But light comes with the dawn. And J, ever resourceful, checks underneath the building for a main power switch for the flat. Yes it exists and yes it works. Coffee coming up. Though does confirm our assumption that the wifi problem is separate from electrical considerations and unlikely to be down to our unit. So will eventually have to contact internet provider to inquire. Simplest just to go there?

Shortly after nine van pulls up with new gas cylinder as ordered for the cooker. Driver, like most delivery men these days, pulls out a mobile, presumably to ascertain that he has the correct address and we are in fact home before hauling the cylinder upstairs. Lean out of the window and wave him in.

And, a few minutes later, internet connection restored. All is well.