Saturday, November 30/2024

As elsewhere, food prices have been rising in North Cyprus. Some produce remains much cheaper than other places we’ve stayed - oranges, lemons, onions, carrots, aubergines, sweet peppers, eggs. And wine - though that’s probably a question of tax. Others much the same as elsewhere. And some products significantly more expensive, particularly those imported from places other than Türkiye. 

Recently though, the price of potatoes soared. Cyprus potatoes have an international reputation, probably due to the quality of the soil. The price increases led to calls to boycott. People asking other consumers to substitute bulgur or pasta until prices became more reasonable. And in fact we went from buying fewer potatoes to none at all as the price hit 100 lira ($4.03 CAD, £2.26) per kilo. Adding insult to injury this coinciding with a load of particularly old and ugly looking spuds. 

The government has apparently agreed as of Thursday to allow imported potatoes from Türkiye. However, prices have dropped, though not precipitously, before any of the agreed imports can have arrived. And the current bin at our grocery store has especially attractive potatoes. Leading one to wonder if conspiracy theories regarding who profits might have some merit.

Note rather late in the day that today is the feast of St Andrew. So a wee dram is called for. And it is wee indeed as there is almost no whisky left in the bottle of Scotch. There is a bottle of Irish whiskey (note the difference in spelling, which some take very seriously) with rather more remaining but drinking it on St Andrew’s Day wouldn’t be right.

Friday, November 29/2024

 Info today thanks to Ralph re the power failure yesterday. Apparently a high voltage line broke and the power plants were taken offline. An hour and a half outage seems reasonably good considering. 

Temperatures are reportedly running two to four degrees below seasonal norms. Not too bad. High today of eighteen. Sunset 16:09 though, as we creep nearer to the winter solstice. And always a little earlier on the northern slope of the mountains.

Regular Friday afternoon gathering at the Blue Song. Not too cool for draft beer outside. 

Sarah, to husband Ralph: Please don’t put your wine on my tab - I don’t have a tab.

Thursday, November 28/2024

 

The first electrocuted bat across from our window has been joined by a second. Looks like a really bad omen. A warning along the lines of decapitated heads of traitors displayed on spikes on London Bridge in Tudor times? Should probably be examining our consciences, but instead repair to Google. And discover that bats being electrocuted on wires not particularly rare despite our not having encountered the phenomenon before. Unlike birds, bats tend to hang upside down and are thus quite likely to touch two separate wires and become the circuit connector.

Had this second bat waited a few hours he might not have died as the power is turned off in our area for an hour and a half around supper time - well, to be precise as I am simmering a pasta sauce. Once more reason to be pleased about cooking with gas, although less light on the subject than usual.

Wednesday, November 26/2024

 J notes this morning that the missing Turkish flag on the mountain has been replaced already. Winds now back to normal levels. And on the other (east) side of us are the Turkish, Turkish Cypriot, and Swedish flags at the home of some still unidentified neighbour, presumably Swedish. Did meet a couple of Swedish people at the gathering in Çatalköy last Wednesday but they lived on the east side of the island. 

The Republic of Cyprus (South) has been making noises about wishing to join NATO, thus furthering the island’s traditional role as an unsinkable aircraft carrier. In particular President Christodoulides has spoken with outgoing President Biden and outlined “a bold plan for Cyprus’ future with NATO, including the possibility of US forces staying permanently on the island”. Hard to imagine what visions of dollar signs danced in his head. Civilian protests in Larnaca on the weekend opposing the growing militarization of Cyprus are unlikely to have moved him much. However Türkiye is a member of NATO and has pointed out that it has, and would use, its veto to prevent Cyprus’s accession. Though Türkiye too may have its price.

Tuesday, November 26/2024

 Winds have died down. Whitecaps have gone. Sea is a calm cerulean blue. A little cool but only light jacket weather. Down to the grocery store to replenish supplies. Can smell yeast as we walk in. Long white loaves in the oven but, happily, still one loaf of sourdough on the shelf, still warm.

Two dogs on the sidewalk opposite the store. They’ve found the sunny side of the street. Like most Cypriot owned dogs they have collars but spend their days unleashed and usually bothering no one. Frequently on the steps outside the store but never try to enter.

Posted today: ‘Two minibus [dolmuş] drivers came to blows this morning over an argument on the Lapta-Girne route on Ecevit Street Girne. Both men ages 36 and 25 ended up in hospital and were arrested.’ The dolmuşes are privately owned. They’re licensed by the municipality but are not a municipal service. The routes are determined by the municipality but the drivers are essentially in competition and it’s possible for an aggressive driver to overtake and scoop up passengers while his competitor is allowing an elderly person to board slowly. Have witnessed arguments as drivers got out of their vehicles to face off but never physical violence. It is true that the police practice here seems to be to arrest first, determine guilt second, and finally release those deemed not guilty.

Monday, November 25/2024

Courtesy gundemkibris.com

Apparently wind speed recorded yesterday at 118 kilometres per hour, as in 73.5 mph in old money. Certainly people reported having difficulty standing on the beach. We were content to observe the whitecaps from afar. Also reports of boats sinking in Girne harbour, which is scarcely surprising. 

Blowing today, but nothing like gale force. Temperature much lower than yesterday though, presumably thanks to the steady north winds coming from Türkiye. High today a pretty unusual 13.The Cyprus Mail claims temperatures will be unseasonably low until December 20. Am choosing to believe other sources that show steady recovery reaching twentyish by the weekend.

Sunday, November 24/2024

Courtesy Gündem Kıbrıs

Crazy weather, though it did come with advance warning. Almost entirely wind, much of it gale force coming in from the north, that is the sea side. We can see two large flags on the mountainside a little to the west of us and regularly check them for wind strength and direction. One is Turkish and the other the flag of North Cyprus.

We check them this morning and discover that the Turkish flag has been ripped off completely, leaving only a thin red ribbon where the top used to be. This must have happened in the night but the winds keep on full blast all day. The mayor of Girne, fifteen kilometres to the east of us has asked people to stay inside unless they absolutely have to go out. Not only are falling roofs and trees a hazard but some roads are impassable.

There have been power failures in parts of the island, though the electric company has done a pretty decent job of keeping up with repairs. Our municipality has told people that they can call the ‘solutions’ line. Probably a quirk of translation, but sounds so much nicer than a problem line.

A good day to stay in and read books and drink tea. Our power was off for a couple of hours but not particularly inconvenient as we cook with gas not electricity.

Saturday, November 23/2024

 Saturday is market day and unlike last week - also unlike the predictions for today - the weather is lovely. Low twenties and clear. 

Tulips, the cancer support stall, is featuring Christmas items - decorations, CDs, cards, fruitcake and such. Actually not really things we want, but it’s cheerful. Do buy a couple of samosas from a man recommended by Beverley who has been bringing curries to the market for the last couple of weeks. They’re small but very good, with a fair kick of heat. Also, from a different booth, a couple of Chelsea buns. After which I discover that my definition of Chelsea bun is inaccurate. Included nuts and way more dried fruit. Guess that is sometimes the case, but really if you want a sticky sweet extravaganza then make your own. Which I have no intention of doing - and would charge A LOT for - if J let them leave the house at all.

Friday, November 22/2024

 

One of our favourite things about Cyprus is the oranges. A winter crop just hitting its stride despite a too dry summer and autumn. And easy to take for granted here as I note there are none in the house and go outside to pick a couple for breakfast. As J says like being able to step outside the door in northern Ontario and spot a small Christmas tree. 

But orange trees are under threat and the threat is moving closer. A small insect known to transmit citrus greening disease (officially Huanglongbing) has been identified in the orchards of the Republic of Cyprus (South). The disease is deadly. It blocks nutrient flow through the citrus tree, eventually killing it. Florida has lost 90% of its orange production and the disease has already spread to Spain. If it develops in the South it will inevitably spread to the North of Cyprus. Pathogens are less respecters of borders than people are. Can only hope for concerted preventive action.

Thursday, November 21/2024

 

Interesting note in Cyprus Mirror regarding a recall of Chivas Regal whisky. Lot number included although of no particular interest to us as it’s not something we’ve bought in years. The reason given for the recall, though, seems both odd and disturbing. The batch was found to contain “alcohol not permitted for food use” and “ low alcohol content”. The story seems to come from Türkiye with a note saying that some of the affected whisky was imported to North Cyprus.

Can see no other references to this online, although one would suppose that a story like this about such a well known brand would have appeared all over the internet if only in the form of disclaimers by the company or assurances that other countries were not affected.

Does raise interesting speculation though. Not permitted for food use? Are we talking rubbing alcohol or merely ethanol stored in containers not guaranteed to be sterile. Other possibilities do occur. And low alcohol content. Thirty-eight percent? Ten percent? Will keep watch for follow up info.

 

Wednesday, November 20/2024

 Love watching the changing face of the sea. And, oddly, can’t really figure it out. Some aspects fairly clear like whitecaps and darkness on clouded and stormy days but others not so obvious. There are times when from our vantage point the sea looks almost white, as if it were covered with snow. Looking at it from the water’s edge there’s a partial explanation as white fluffy cumulus clouds are reflected in the water but that’s not the whole story. Nor is it obvious why it’s sometimes two-toned - blue on one side and green on the other. Occasionally but not all that often. And certainly the depth doesn’t change. (Well, not much. The Mediterranean is slightly tidal and Cypriot tides vary from .7 to 3.3 metres depending on the time of year). Googling much less enlightening than one might have supposed but not finished yet.

Horst gives us a lift to Sultan’s restaurant in Çatalköy where foreigners meet on a Wednesday. It’s less than fifteen miles to the east of us but would mean a change of dolmuş in Girne. Cheap enough but way more time consuming than one might have thought, even by car which takes (mostly) more efficient routes than the dolmuş can. 

Probably the most surprising change in North Cyprus in the nearly quarter century we’ve been coming here is the traffic. More surprising than the housing construction - though obviously not unrelated to it. Many more - and newer and more expensive - cars. And more and better motorways seemingly under permanent construction, aided by a climate where year round road works and construction are possible. It’s an island and cars aren’t cheap. They’re also sold in harder currency than the Turkish lira. So suspect that some of the increase must reflect more availability of credit. It certainly doesn’t reflect a stronger lira.

Tuesday, November 18/2024

 No hibiscus left and crepe myrtle less luxuriant than it was a month ago. On the other hand honeysuckle on the patio has started to bloom happily. And the jasmine that we pass on the way to the grocery store still has a lovely scent.

Note that it snowed in London today. Also in many other places of course but snow in London is pretty rare in November. Think the last time was 2010.

The grapes available at our local store seem to be coming to an end. Well, they are seasonal, but more than that this was apparently not a good year as higher than usual summer temperatures as well as drought led to a smaller harvest than normal. Cherry tomatoes very good though.

Monday, November 18/2024

 Well, sun out today, which allows a much better photograph of the bat on the wires. Seems pretty well glued on so expect it will be there for the forseeable future, disturbing as it is.

Finish reading aloud Diary of a Nobody. Very funny, and should anyone else wish to read it downloadable for free from Project Gutenberg, being long out of copyright (1892). Customs and mores of period interest but characters and humour timeless. Interestingly there is a sequel. Not by the original authors but more recently, by Keith Waterhouse of Billy Liar fame. Sadly not available as ebook, though did spot a second hand paperback for 60p (presumably delivery more than that). This not a country particularly well served by post though. 

Sunday, November 17/2024

 

Wake up to see what looks, at first like an old rag caught in the wires on the other side of the road. Not impossible, as it was a bit stormy in the night. On further consideration (was going to say closer inspection but actually can’t get any closer, hence the quality of the photograph) it looks more like a fairly large bat. Electrocuted as it touched two wires? Looks like it may be there for some time as it hasn’t attracted any bird of prey thus far.

Saturday, November 16/2024

 

Courtesy of Debbie Atahasan

Forecast was for alternate sun and showers and the showers started in the night. We can take partial credit as we left towels drying on the outside rack. No complaints, though, as the trees and shrubs definitely need the water after a completely rainless October. Also rain does wash away the bird droppings on the patio. Wouldn’t matter so much if it were wood or stone but the tiles are marble and acidic bird faeces tend to eat marble.

Showers are patchy as people online report whether it is currently raining at various spots along the coast that are not widely separated. Debbie Atahasan, somewhat to the east of us photographs a full rainbow. And, also on the weather front, a series of small earthquakes, mostly on the south coast of the island. No damage reported and only three of them felt by nearby residents.

We had intended to go to the local Saturday morning market but opt against. Nothing urgently needed and it’s about three quarters of a mile - enough to get thoroughly soaked on the way home.

Friday, November 15/2024

 Public holiday today. The last one of the year as Christmas isn’t a holiday here. It’s Republic Day, celebrating the 41st anniversary of the Declaration of Independence in 1983 of the Turkish Republic of North  Cyprus. Airshow slated above the harbour in Girne. It’s an annual event and apparently a good one but we don’t opt to go as our usual gathering at the Blue Song is more attractive. 

As with most public holidays, banks and government offices will be closed, supermarkets open. We’re basically village, and the sounds on a holiday morning are village sounds. Including the buzz of a power saw - shades of Sioux Lookout. And, from a little further away, a rooster greeting the day.

Had thought we might be able to see something of the air show from the Blue Song where we’re enjoying a draft beer outside at the starting time - half past three. But seems that fifteen kilometres is too far, though we did spot some of the planes arriving from Türkiye earlier.

And, appropriately, the last super moon of the year due tonight.

 

Thursday, November 14/2024

Antikythera red map pin, North Cyprus blue map pin

J reminds me of our first flirtation with the thought of Mediterranean living. Many years ago. Thirty? Bought a weekly Telegraph at the 7-11 in Dryden and spotted a seductive piece describing a Greek government scheme for allowing suitable applicants to live rent free on uninhabited islands. Preference given to those with plans for green agricultural projects. Sounded idyllic. Come up with an idea for growing multicoloured carrots or whatever, and arrive with a trunkload of books. Paradise.

Don’t remember giving thought to much else - although in all fairness we didn’t apply, didn’t even check the validity dates on our passports. Not disturbed by considerations like the quality of shelter. Build our own? Would there be trees? And food. Apart from the multicoloured carrots that is. Gardening pretty hard work if it’s providing your only source of sustenance. Would take quite a chunk of time away from that trunk of books. Had vague images of sitting in the sun reading and sipping wine. And most Greek islands run to a rough local wine. Not classic vintage but authentic - for what that’s worth. But wait. That would be INHABITED islands. Wine to be purchased from local villagers. This was to be - in fact the whole point was - an uninhabited island. Would there be wild grapes. Enough experience with wine making not to have high expectations. 

Had not at that point spent a winter in the Mediterranean. It is not all created equal. Roughly speaking, the farther east you go the warmer the average winter temperature. No matter how far east you go January is unlikely to be sleeping on the beach weather. Furthermore rainfall is unequally distributed. Cyprus and Crete are similar in size but in Crete the average high temperature in December is 18, in January 11. Rainfall in December is 197 mm, in January 160 mm. By comparison, Cyprus average highs are 18.9 in December and 17.1 in January. December rainfall averages 95 mm and January 80 mm. About twice as much winter rain in Crete.

Still theoretically possible to move to a Greek island without paying. Actually somewhat better terms than those on offer some thirty years ago, though much more prudent from the Greek government’s point of view. The island of Antikythera, south of mainland Greece and a little northwest of Crete, is in fact paying families to move there. New residents can be given a home, a piece of land, and €500 ($740.84 CAD, £415.57) a month for the first three years. Access to electricity, basic plumbing, limited water supply and even internet (not a factor to be considered thirty years ago - hence the trunk of books). They are, however, looking for families with three or more children and hoping to increase skilled labour in the population.

An attractive enough proposition in its own way. But happy to have chosen winters in North Cyprus.

Wednesday, November 13/2024

Courtesy of BBC

Türkiye’s President Erdoğan is quoted as saying that that Türkiye has ended diplomatic relations with Israel. More than one news source puts it that way. “Says Erdoğan” and “Erdoğan claims”. This looks slightly odd. Surely the more usual way to put it would be to simply state that Türkiye had broken off relations with Israel. The “says” and “claims” bits are normally reserved for unreliable sources of the “who wished to remain anonymous” sort. 

And indeed one is led to reflect on the number of ways in which Erdoğan is unreliable, although not particularly as a source. I consult J who is probably as cynical as I but better informed. “He hasn’t stopped sending them oil though, has he?” And indeed there is the story in France’s RFI: “Turkey Talks Tough on Israel but Resists Calls to Cut Off Oil”. The oil isn’t Turkish. It will be from Azerbaijan and Iraqi Kurdistan but via pipelines that terminate at the Turkish port of Ceyhan. From there it’s shipped down the coast past Syria and Lebanon to Israel.

Reading the news in the Middle East as tricky as reading it in Canada.

Tuesday, November 12/2024

 The harbour in Girne (Greek name Kyrenia) dates back to Venetian times and has always had a gentle period charm. We first stayed there in the winter of 2001, our first winter travelling. There were virtually no tourists there in January. We had taken the ferry from Türkiye and I sat with our bags in the square while J went and bargained for a room. No fast food places but we looked to see what was in the large metal basins in a café just off the square and pointed at what we wanted. All good peasant food and not a doner kebab in sight. 

Two years ago the powers that be began a huge renovation project with tourist appeal in mind. Some of the revamping was doubtless needed to upgrade electrical and water supplies and make the pavements safer, but maintaining authentic period shabbiness clearly not an aim. So now it is attractive enough if you have no nostalgic memories of its former self. Restaurant prices have escalated sharply, and some of its soul has gone.

Apparently there is also a new sign announcing the fait accompli:

Photo by Salih Günhan. Posted by Ralph Kratzer.

You can’t go home again.

Monday, November 11/2024

 

Courtesy of Cairo Scene

Day keeps promising - or threatening - but not delivering rain. But we cooked a chicken yesterday and have plenty of reading material, so rain or no rain really doesn’t matter.

Reading aloud two works of fiction. Midaq Alley, by Nobel Prize winner (1986) Naguib Mahfouz. Set in Cairo in the early forties, it’s a stunning combination of a period urban Egyptian setting and universal characters that we have all known in various guises. We had previously read his Cairo trilogy, which was excellent. But this is better.

Our other read aloud is even older. The Diary of a Nobody. Comic novel published in 1892 after having been serialised in Punch. And never out of print since. Though happily long out of copyright and therefore downloadable for free, as it’s really quite funny. As with Midaq Alley, the period detail is interesting while the characters are timeless.

Overcast - mostly

Midaq Alley Naguib Mahfouz Nobel prize literature 1988

Diary of a Nobody pre WW Ic