Thursday, November 21/2024

 

Interesting note in Cyprus Mirror regarding a recall of Chivas Regal whisky. Lot number included although of no particular interest to us as it’s not something we’ve bought in years. The reason given for the recall, though, seems both odd and disturbing. The batch was found to contain “alcohol not permitted for food use” and “ low alcohol content”. The story seems to come from Türkiye with a note saying that some of the affected whisky was imported to North Cyprus.

Can see no other references to this online, although one would suppose that a story like this about such a well known brand would have appeared all over the internet if only in the form of disclaimers by the company or assurances that other countries were not affected.

Does raise interesting speculation though. Not permitted for food use? Are we talking rubbing alcohol or merely ethanol stored in containers not guaranteed to be sterile. Other possibilities do occur. And low alcohol content. Thirty-eight percent? Ten percent? Will keep watch for follow up info.

 

Wednesday, November 20/2024

 Love watching the changing face of the sea. And, oddly, can’t really figure it out. Some aspects fairly clear like whitecaps and darkness on clouded and stormy days but others not so obvious. There are times when from our vantage point the sea looks almost white, as if it were covered with snow. Looking at it from the water’s edge there’s a partial explanation as white fluffy cumulus clouds are reflected in the water but that’s not the whole story. Nor is it obvious why it’s sometimes two-toned - blue on one side and green on the other. Occasionally but not all that often. And certainly the depth doesn’t change. (Well, not much. The Mediterranean is slightly tidal and Cypriot tides vary from .7 to 3.3 metres depending on the time of year). Googling much less enlightening than one might have supposed but not finished yet.

Horst gives us a lift to Sultan’s restaurant in Çatalköy where foreigners meet on a Wednesday. It’s less than fifteen miles to the east of us but would mean a change of dolmuş in Girne. Cheap enough but way more time consuming than one might have thought, even by car which takes (mostly) more efficient routes than the dolmuş can. 

Probably the most surprising change in North Cyprus in the nearly quarter century we’ve been coming here is the traffic. More surprising than the housing construction - though obviously not unrelated to it. Many more - and newer and more expensive - cars. And more and better motorways seemingly under permanent construction, aided by a climate where year round road works and construction are possible. It’s an island and cars aren’t cheap. They’re also sold in harder currency than the Turkish lira. So suspect that some of the increase must reflect more availability of credit. It certainly doesn’t reflect a stronger lira.

Tuesday, November 18/2024

 No hibiscus left and crepe myrtle less luxuriant than it was a month ago. On the other hand honeysuckle on the patio has started to bloom happily. And the jasmine that we pass on the way to the grocery store still has a lovely scent.

Note that it snowed in London today. Also in many other places of course but snow in London is pretty rare in November. Think the last time was 2010.

The grapes available at our local store seem to be coming to an end. Well, they are seasonal, but more than that this was apparently not a good year as higher than usual summer temperatures as well as drought led to a smaller harvest than normal. Cherry tomatoes very good though.

Monday, November 18/2024

 Well, sun out today, which allows a much better photograph of the bat on the wires. Seems pretty well glued on so expect it will be there for the forseeable future, disturbing as it is.

Finish reading aloud Diary of a Nobody. Very funny, and should anyone else wish to read it downloadable for free from Project Gutenberg, being long out of copyright (1892). Customs and mores of period interest but characters and humour timeless. Interestingly there is a sequel. Not by the original authors but more recently, by Keith Waterhouse of Billy Liar fame. Sadly not available as ebook, though did spot a second hand paperback for 60p (presumably delivery more than that). This not a country particularly well served by post though. 

Sunday, November 17/2024

 

Wake up to see what looks, at first like an old rag caught in the wires on the other side of the road. Not impossible, as it was a bit stormy in the night. On further consideration (was going to say closer inspection but actually can’t get any closer, hence the quality of the photograph) it looks more like a fairly large bat. Electrocuted as it touched two wires? Looks like it may be there for some time as it hasn’t attracted any bird of prey thus far.

Saturday, November 16/2024

 

Courtesy of Debbie Atahasan

Forecast was for alternate sun and showers and the showers started in the night. We can take partial credit as we left towels drying on the outside rack. No complaints, though, as the trees and shrubs definitely need the water after a completely rainless October. Also rain does wash away the bird droppings on the patio. Wouldn’t matter so much if it were wood or stone but the tiles are marble and acidic bird faeces tend to eat marble.

Showers are patchy as people online report whether it is currently raining at various spots along the coast that are not widely separated. Debbie Atahasan, somewhat to the east of us photographs a full rainbow. And, also on the weather front, a series of small earthquakes, mostly on the south coast of the island. No damage reported and only three of them felt by nearby residents.

We had intended to go to the local Saturday morning market but opt against. Nothing urgently needed and it’s about three quarters of a mile - enough to get thoroughly soaked on the way home.

Friday, November 15/2024

 Public holiday today. The last one of the year as Christmas isn’t a holiday here. It’s Republic Day, celebrating the 41st anniversary of the Declaration of Independence in 1983 of the Turkish Republic of North  Cyprus. Airshow slated above the harbour in Girne. It’s an annual event and apparently a good one but we don’t opt to go as our usual gathering at the Blue Song is more attractive. 

As with most public holidays, banks and government offices will be closed, supermarkets open. We’re basically village, and the sounds on a holiday morning are village sounds. Including the buzz of a power saw - shades of Sioux Lookout. And, from a little further away, a rooster greeting the day.

Had thought we might be able to see something of the air show from the Blue Song where we’re enjoying a draft beer outside at the starting time - half past three. But seems that fifteen kilometres is too far, though we did spot some of the planes arriving from Türkiye earlier.

And, appropriately, the last super moon of the year due tonight.

 

Thursday, November 14/2024

Antikythera red map pin, North Cyprus blue map pin

J reminds me of our first flirtation with the thought of Mediterranean living. Many years ago. Thirty? Bought a weekly Telegraph at the 7-11 in Dryden and spotted a seductive piece describing a Greek government scheme for allowing suitable applicants to live rent free on uninhabited islands. Preference given to those with plans for green agricultural projects. Sounded idyllic. Come up with an idea for growing multicoloured carrots or whatever, and arrive with a trunkload of books. Paradise.

Don’t remember giving thought to much else - although in all fairness we didn’t apply, didn’t even check the validity dates on our passports. Not disturbed by considerations like the quality of shelter. Build our own? Would there be trees? And food. Apart from the multicoloured carrots that is. Gardening pretty hard work if it’s providing your only source of sustenance. Would take quite a chunk of time away from that trunk of books. Had vague images of sitting in the sun reading and sipping wine. And most Greek islands run to a rough local wine. Not classic vintage but authentic - for what that’s worth. But wait. That would be INHABITED islands. Wine to be purchased from local villagers. This was to be - in fact the whole point was - an uninhabited island. Would there be wild grapes. Enough experience with wine making not to have high expectations. 

Had not at that point spent a winter in the Mediterranean. It is not all created equal. Roughly speaking, the farther east you go the warmer the average winter temperature. No matter how far east you go January is unlikely to be sleeping on the beach weather. Furthermore rainfall is unequally distributed. Cyprus and Crete are similar in size but in Crete the average high temperature in December is 18, in January 11. Rainfall in December is 197 mm, in January 160 mm. By comparison, Cyprus average highs are 18.9 in December and 17.1 in January. December rainfall averages 95 mm and January 80 mm. About twice as much winter rain in Crete.

Still theoretically possible to move to a Greek island without paying. Actually somewhat better terms than those on offer some thirty years ago, though much more prudent from the Greek government’s point of view. The island of Antikythera, south of mainland Greece and a little northwest of Crete, is in fact paying families to move there. New residents can be given a home, a piece of land, and €500 ($740.84 CAD, £415.57) a month for the first three years. Access to electricity, basic plumbing, limited water supply and even internet (not a factor to be considered thirty years ago - hence the trunk of books). They are, however, looking for families with three or more children and hoping to increase skilled labour in the population.

An attractive enough proposition in its own way. But happy to have chosen winters in North Cyprus.

Wednesday, November 13/2024

Courtesy of BBC

Türkiye’s President Erdoğan is quoted as saying that that Türkiye has ended diplomatic relations with Israel. More than one news source puts it that way. “Says Erdoğan” and “Erdoğan claims”. This looks slightly odd. Surely the more usual way to put it would be to simply state that Türkiye had broken off relations with Israel. The “says” and “claims” bits are normally reserved for unreliable sources of the “who wished to remain anonymous” sort. 

And indeed one is led to reflect on the number of ways in which Erdoğan is unreliable, although not particularly as a source. I consult J who is probably as cynical as I but better informed. “He hasn’t stopped sending them oil though, has he?” And indeed there is the story in France’s RFI: “Turkey Talks Tough on Israel but Resists Calls to Cut Off Oil”. The oil isn’t Turkish. It will be from Azerbaijan and Iraqi Kurdistan but via pipelines that terminate at the Turkish port of Ceyhan. From there it’s shipped down the coast past Syria and Lebanon to Israel.

Reading the news in the Middle East as tricky as reading it in Canada.

Tuesday, November 12/2024

 The harbour in Girne (Greek name Kyrenia) dates back to Venetian times and has always had a gentle period charm. We first stayed there in the winter of 2001, our first winter travelling. There were virtually no tourists there in January. We had taken the ferry from Türkiye and I sat with our bags in the square while J went and bargained for a room. No fast food places but we looked to see what was in the large metal basins in a café just off the square and pointed at what we wanted. All good peasant food and not a doner kebab in sight. 

Two years ago the powers that be began a huge renovation project with tourist appeal in mind. Some of the revamping was doubtless needed to upgrade electrical and water supplies and make the pavements safer, but maintaining authentic period shabbiness clearly not an aim. So now it is attractive enough if you have no nostalgic memories of its former self. Restaurant prices have escalated sharply, and some of its soul has gone.

Apparently there is also a new sign announcing the fait accompli:

Photo by Salih Günhan. Posted by Ralph Kratzer.

You can’t go home again.

Monday, November 11/2024

 

Courtesy of Cairo Scene

Day keeps promising - or threatening - but not delivering rain. But we cooked a chicken yesterday and have plenty of reading material, so rain or no rain really doesn’t matter.

Reading aloud two works of fiction. Midaq Alley, by Nobel Prize winner (1986) Naguib Mahfouz. Set in Cairo in the early forties, it’s a stunning combination of a period urban Egyptian setting and universal characters that we have all known in various guises. We had previously read his Cairo trilogy, which was excellent. But this is better.

Our other read aloud is even older. The Diary of a Nobody. Comic novel published in 1892 after having been serialised in Punch. And never out of print since. Though happily long out of copyright and therefore downloadable for free, as it’s really quite funny. As with Midaq Alley, the period detail is interesting while the characters are timeless.

Overcast - mostly

Midaq Alley Naguib Mahfouz Nobel prize literature 1988

Diary of a Nobody pre WW Ic

Sunday, November 10/2024

Alexander and Luba moved out early yesterday. Had intended to exchange email addresses but as usual procrastinated until too late. Hadn’t expected to carry on much in the way of correspondence but contact could have been useful as they seem mostly to be here in the part of the year when we’re not and vice versa. This morning the one cat that Alexander befriended and fed out of the many wanderers is on our patio looking in the window. Can I be your cat now? Looks pretty healthy and may in fact have a real home.

At 9:05 we are slightly startled by the sound of a steady siren but remember that it signals not an emergency but a tribute to the late Mustafa Kemal Atatürk who died at this time on November 10, 1938. He’s rightly honoured as the founder of the Turkish Republic, which he proclaimed in 1923 the year after abolishing the sultanate, as he presided over Türkiye’s rise from the ashes of the Ottoman Empire which had been defeated in WW I.

Atatürk created a secular state - an achievement which has wavered under Erdoğan. Possibly his biggest gift to Türkiye has remained though. Arabic script was replaced with Roman, so despite the idiosyncrasies of a non Indo-European language translation into European languages is not a horrifically daunting task.

Predicted rain comes in the afternoon, although not with the precision that the notoriously inaccurate Acuweather has announced. (As in rain will start in 32 minutes - a declaration that can be made when it’s already raining). Yes, there are other sources, but they’re often no more accurate.  Not that it matters enormously to the retired. And, happily, the rain washes the omnipresent bird droppings off the deck. 

Saturday, November 9/2024

 Saturday - market day as usual. Disappointing lack of produce this year. And no honey or nuts. But worth going anyway to see what is on offer. 

Dogs usually in evidence. May sometimes belong to one of the vendors or a shopper but suspect that, in the way of dogs, they are often just there for the event and the company, hanging out and happy to be included. And if excitement wanes a nap in the sun is always an option. 

Turkish Cypriot dogs are seldom tied up and seem to enjoy a pretty carefree life. Suspect most have families but roaming not considered a problem unless a dog is aggressive, which seems pretty rare. Much like the good-natured village dogs of my youth in the pre dog catcher days. Although one less pleasant result of this is excrement on the sidewalks. Dogs owned by ex-pats much more likely to be leashed and accompanied by someone who bags their deposits.

No major purchases but do come home with an unread Lecarré. 

Friday, November 8/2024

Walk down to the Blue Song for usual Friday afternoon gathering. Downhill in sunshine going. Uphill and just after sunset on the way back. Actually not technically after sunset, which is now 16:45, but living on the north slope of a mountain range means the sun disappears slightly before “sunset”. 

Pass the newly replaced transformer pole. The old one still lying by the side of the road. Must have been replaced just in time. Part of it looks like one huge splinter. 

Think our gathering is vaguely in the process of moving from summer to winter time but no need to hurry the process. Most of us are retired anyway. 

Criegan not here today. Down with some kind of bronchial infection, which Beverley refers to as “lurgy” illness. Interested, as always, in words, and pursue it later online. It is, as she said, frequently northern English. Sometimes Scots, as are many northern English terms. But popularised by the Goon Show as “the dreaded lurgy” - which makes its general use a little too late for my family to have used it.

Thursday, November 7/2024

Love the patio. View of the mountains to the south and the Mediterranean to the north . Flowering shrubs everywhere and the neighbour’s oleander and grapevine trellis overhanging slightly. 

The only downside is the birds. Well, not the birds themselves but their droppings. Not even sure which birds. Could be early in the morning before we’re up or during the night. Plenty of swifts about and they can eat, sleep and even mate on the wing. Presumably this could include other business at night. 

Be that as it may, every morning finds a trail of splotches across the tiles, dark as blood though brown not red. None of the innocent looking white deposits that we see more frequently at home, not that they’re any more welcome. 

Wednesday, November 6/2024

 

Wake up while it’s still yesterday in North America. This is not unusual as there’s an eight hour time difference between us and Central Standard time. Does mean that the polls are closed in all American time zones and preliminary results are coming in, although not initially predictions on the swing states. About the only joy is in the fact that we are not pollsters, all of whom seem to have blown it majorly. 

About as far out, though a shade less embarrassingly, as the 1948 polling prediction that Thomas Dewey would beat Harry Truman. Thomas who? Indeed. But before the vote was counted the Chicago Daily Tribune had already gone to press and the morning headline read DEWEY DEFEATS TRUMAN. And no, I don’t remember that election. But do know part, at least, of the reason that the pollsters got it wrong. They relied heavily on telephone surveys at a time when owning a telephone was far from universal and the results were skewed in favour of those with higher incomes.

So now begin the post mortems on this election.

Tuesday, November 5/2024

 One good thing about North Cyprus - and many other places - is that it’s easy to buy things in small units. For example one half litre bottle of beer. Though have to admit that this is true of European and British beer at home as well. Just not in (though sometimes right beside) grocery stores. And yes, am forgetting Quebec where beer and wine are also regarded as accompaniments for a meal *rather than intoxicants and are sold in grocery stores. Here beer bottles have caps that can be removed with a handy pull tab. Rare to need a can opener for tinned vegetables either as most have pull tabs. 

And here fruit and veg are never wrapped in plastic, always simply sold by weight. Not more expensive per kilo to buy two carrots if that’s what you want. Do know of one supermarket that actually has a milk dispenser outside so you could bring your own container. It’s not very close to us though, and we don’t really use a lot of milk except when making Irish soda bread.

This is Election Day in the US, and one the rest of the world is watching with more interest than usual. Seems slightly weird then to wake up and realise that it’s still yesterday in most of America. Polls not open. Final results not likely to be in until tomorrow morning in our time zone. There will be exit polls, though, with a couple of caveats. The first results will not be released until 5 pm Eastern Time - that’s midnight here - and exit polls results that will indicate a state’s winner are not released until all polling centres have closed in that state. Memories of the days in Canada when results from provinces to the east were not released until the polls had closed in the province of the watcher. Until modern telecommunications made nonsense of the restrictions.

Monday, November 4/2024

 The people across the road with the orchard were harvesting olives on the weekend with a tarp spread under the tree to collect them. J also spotted the old man (well, probably not any older than we are) picking figs from his tree. The same tree that has branches hanging over the fence on the roadside that allowed us to sample the fruit last year. That was early December though and the figs were much bigger than they are now. Wouldn’t have known whether these are immature or just the tiny victims of the summer drought but they’re no bigger than grapes. But no doubt the owner knows what he’s doing.

Have decided that the yoghurt we have been eating was probably from cow’s milk rather than sheep as we had assumed and wanted. Had thought that köy meant sheep but turns out that it means village. Sheep is köyun. So unspecified village yoghurt almost certainly from cow’s milk. Now in possession of a container not only labelled köyun but adorned with a reassuring picture of a sheep. Turkish is a difficult language but as with Polish most of the words I’ve learned first are for foods.

Köy  köyun

Sunday, November 3/2024

Courtesy of World Storm

Huge hail in South Cyprus last night.

Well, it is precipitation.

A not entirely enviable record was set in Cyprus this October. For the first time in sixty years there was no rain recorded on the island for the entire month. And of course this followed an extremely hot and dry summer.

.Well before this autumn there were warnings that a “toxic combination” of decreasing rainfall, abandonment of rural areas, and increased water consumption has put over half the island at immediate risk of desertification. In fact everywhere except the ridge of the Troodos Mountains (not “ our “ mountain range) is at risk.

Increasingly people want to live in urban areas where the jobs and services are and modern living styles use much more water than was the case when it was carried by the bucketful. Cypriots are usually pretty careful about water consumption, but undoubtedly use more than their grandparents did just as most cool their homes more than previous generations. And tourism is encouraged for the economy but is obviously harder on the environment than the old agricultural base was.

We did have thunder storms and a patio cleaning rain last night but no hail north of the mountains.

Inaccuweather 

Saturday, November 2/2024

 Saturday is Lambousa market day. Overcast but still mid twenties. Really miss the fresh produce and nuts and honey. Not sure if they’ll ever return. We’ll probably take a look at the Girne market some Wednesday, although it’s not walking distance like “our” market. It is much bigger, though, and when we were in Famagusta during the pandemic the weekly city market was the source of most of our fruit and vegetables once it was allowed to reopen.

The most interesting stalls here are the charity ones. We do buy five CD’s at the cancer patients’ support. Ten lira each (£0.23, $0.41 CAD). Also a blue mug. Browse but don’t actually buy at the extensive book stall in support of animal rescue. Still have a number of unread or unfinished books, both “real” and digital. Do have memories of the first years we travelled, though, when we tended to buy anything we saw in English, resulting in a few quite unexpected winners. In those days the few books we brought from home had to meet strict criteria - appeal to both of us, ok to trade as we went, and not hardcover (too heavy).