Friday, November 28/2014

Walk up the hill to the hospice charity shop. It has tons of books as well as CDs and clothing and tables outside for coffee. And, as far as we can make out, supports the only hospice in Cyprus, one funded entirely by charitable donations and fiund raising - which has been forced to cut back its scope recently in Cyprus's economic troubles. Pleasant sunny place and definitely a good cause. Simplest solution to limited winter clothes here is to pick up a couple of extra shirts and rredonate them when we leave.

Do a little research on pigeons and can see that their prospects are not good. They normally lay two eggs, which take 18 days to hatch - by which time we'll be long gone. Worse, this is followed - obviously - by a longish period of attention to the nestlings. And the parents, having found a good nesting spot, tend to return to it in future. Seems pretty unlikely that the hotel and various occupants of this flat in the weeks to come are going to want to play host to a pigeon nursery.

Christmas tree now greets you as you enter the hotel lobby, just in time for Advent. Going to the reception/bar/dining area means going outside, past gardens and pool. Works better in Cyprus than it would in Canada, though the walkway does tend to flood briefly in heavy rain.

Thursday, November 27/2014

The luxuriant growth in the flower beds behind our block turn out to be rosemary. Got curious and pinched a little as we passed. Far too much for anyone to miss a little to be saved forvthe soup pot.

Lovely being back where oranges and lemons and tomatoes and cucumber and herbs are all fresh and abundant.

Wednesday, November 26/2014

Rain gone, though it's still pretty cloudy. Second pigeon egg in the nest this morning. Have no idea how long they take to hatch. We seem a bit undereducated for the pseudo grandparental rôle. The pigeons don't seem too bothered by our proximity - better than cats. That's good as our drying rack is on the balcony and it would be inconvenient not to be able to use it.

Tuesday, November 25/2014

Rain day, as predicted by Accuweather. Not bad, though, as we have reading to do - things we're reading separately as well as an Ian Rankin, the only non-electronic book we have with us, that we're enjoying aloud.

Also, we have a quiet drama to follow on our balcony. The balcony is small and pretty sunless, so we haven't sat out on it. Actually, we haven't even unstacked the two plastic chairs next to the little table. Only really used the place for drying clothes. But the quiet space did have its appeal, and two pigeons have taken up residence. We'd spotted them there earlier but weren't sure at first whether the pile of twigs were going to amount to anything. J was first to suspect them of nest building but they seemed lazily casual and half-hearted about it, bringing the occasional addition and then disappearing for a period. But this morning there is an egg in the little nest and the female plumply ensconced on it, though they do take turns. We had actually planned to dismantle the nest before things went this far, thinking that their long term prospects on a hotel balcony weren't too good, but we weren't quick enough about it. We're only here for another two weeks and who knows after that. The birds don't seem distressed by our presence but co-existence may be more difficult with the next guests.

J takes advantage of the little oven, a luxury not present in much of our winter accommodation, to roast a large chicken from Papantoniou. Results are beautiful, though it does seem a bit ironic to be cooking one bird while protecting a nest a few feet away.ru

Monday, November 24/2014

Walk slightly uphill (well, we're so close to the harbour that more or less everything is uphill) to the new Kings Avenue Mall. It's enormous and fairly classy, but also pretty much like any other Western mall, with the same international chains you see everywhere, like Zara, Adidas, Mango, etc. The most interesting store is simply called Public, and has a number of new Ipads at what seem initially to be good prices, and for non-EU residents leaving for non-EU destinations, such as Lebanon, there is a tax rebate which looks to be about eight and a half percent. There's also a fair sized Carrefour, more or less like the one in Larnaca, but not really as good overall as the locally owned Papantoniou across the road from us. And source, happily, of the nicest, most garlicky humus I've ever eaten. 

On the way, we pass Agia Solomoni catacomb caves, quite near the pillar where St Paul is supposed to have been tied and whipped. Remarkable largely for the number of white handkerchiefs and bits of cloth (and, sadly, plastic bags) tied to the trees in front, representing petitions. Will come back some other time to look inside.

In the lobby, after dinner in our flat, look up the municipal Paphos tourism site. Some useful, if incomplete information - for example the weekly guided walks around the historic spots appear to be free and probably quite interesting, but they also seem to cover more territory than could easily be done on foot in a half day, so more info necessary. The best of the site, though, is its entertainment value. Example:

--Intercity taxi service is offered in shared 4-to 8-seater minibuses. This service provides a connection service between all major towns at a fixed rate. As rates are not fixed, negotiating the fare before you get into a taxi is a must; otherwise you run the risk of being ripped off. 

Sunday, November 23/2014

Violent thunder storm during breakfast but quickly replaced, Mediterranean style, with full sun. More people on the street today, though not a lot of them looked like tourists. The nice mobile phone man talked about fifty businesses closed on one road, in one place 20 in a row. Our observations obviously only impressionistic, but many empty shops and business for sale signs. 

Over to the Players Pub across the road for the last Grand Prix of the season. Lewis Hamilton ahead and favoured but teammate Nico Rossberg still in contention. Football game on some screens, but 12 of us watching the race, eight men and four women. Well, three of us women watching and one busy throughout with her mobile. Could have had an F1 app, but if so it must have been much better than mine as she never looked up at the screen. Pint of Guinness each and quite a good race, with Hamilton the winner as predicted.

Booked at 5:30 for Sunday dinner at the First and Last (English) pub. Lovely meal, with the lamb shanks we pre-ordered, Yorkshire pudding, roast and mashed potatoes, and four veg. Whilst on the way to book it yesterday, we stopped to admire a pomegranate tree with dark red fruit on it like Christmas ornaments. This owner kindly gave us a pomegranate but as it was too big for my handbag and we still had errands to do, J secreted it in a hedge round the corner, planning to retrieve it on the way back. I did spot an old lady sweeping her drive nearby and we joked about her taking it. Well, on our return it was gone. Regretted the loss, but worse, began to imagine the man and woman as neighbours conversing. He: Some foreigners admired my pomegranates and I gave them one - they were so pleased. She: That's what you think - they weren't grateful at all and could hardly wait to get round the corner to throw it in my hedge.

Saturday, November 22/2014

Back up the long hill to the mobile shop, where the mobile is indeed waiting and operational. And he has removed the need for an opening code, which, like many home security systems, inconveniences the owner more than it does any half way competent thief. More than that, he has NO charge - just recommend him. We will indeed, but don't really know anyone in Pathos to recommend him to. Do, as a gesture, buy a top up card from him.

Stop on the way back at the greengrocer. We admire the live snails, buy olives, oranges, tiny aubergines and honey. Give a miss to the enormous green cabbages, more than capable of convincing anyone that babies are found under cabbage leaves and not brought by the stork.

Friday, November 21/2014

Task of the day - break in to our own mobile. Long ago - like last February - shortly before leaving Cyprus we switched mobile phone providers and acquired a new SIM card. Good reason for the change: our previous had gone to the nasty North American habit of requiring a top up every month. CYTA, our new provider, required top ups only annually. However, its SIM had a quirk of its own - a PUK (personal unlock key, PIN of sorts) that was required to unlock the phone after it had been shut down. Only inconvenient initially, but nine months later mentally irretrievable. Yes, it was written down with the initial purchase info and, actually, not thrown away. But not something that it occurred to me to bring along this winter. But we're now in Cyprus and Paphos has a CYTA office, so presumably the problem is soluble - and I can't be the first to experience it.

CYTA office is about two miles away, uphill. Well, it isn't uphill both ways. And there's a green grocer half way along that's always worth a stop. At the top of the hill, looking for final directions, we find a mobile sales and repair shop that sells CYTA products. The owner is nice in a low key way. The CYTA shop is closed - early closing on Friday - and not open on Saturday. He can probably phone through, though. But it turns out they won't release the number without more info - like the phone number, easily retrievable if we could open the phone. However our friend has a plan B, which basically consists of leaving it overnight while he hacks in - though this is not presented anything like so crudely. It will be working in the morning, 100% sure. So we leave with no phone and, actually, no receipt. In a one man shop in a country where everything is based on personal relationship it would be too rude to ask a man who has been so helpful over the past fifteen minutes to provide one. And the mobile is neither new nor smart.

Thursday, November 20/2014

Our hotel, the Daphne, is a pleasant surprise. We checked it out a couple of years ago and it seemed a little seedy then, as well as charging exorbitantly for wifi. But the location is excellent - a short block from the waterfront and across the road from the best local supermarket, Papantoniou. So, despite low expectations, we booked for three weeks anyway, since we'd been offered flat plus breakfast for a ridiculously low amount. Worth, we thought, going out for coffee or a pint daily to get a touch of free wifi. First surprise was the hotel itself. No four stars, but they've definitely been making an effort - lots of licks of paint and everything is very clean. Sparkly pool and friendly staff. AND the wifi in the lobby is free, if slow.

Second surprise is that the breakfast buffet is quite nice. Not enormous, but choices of cold cereal, boiled or fried eggs, cold meats and cheeses, tomato and cucumber and olives, sausage and bacon, baked beans, bread and rolls. And the juice is from concentrate but it IS juice and not the sugar water supplied by many classier places. So a very positive beginning. The flat is pretty good too. Bedroom, and small sitting room and kitchen. The standard two burner hot plate top but the unit has a small and extremely clean oven. TV has basic local channels (except for the mysterious lack of the government owned CYBC 2. Also Euronews English, Fox Movies, and - happily - BBC News.

Wednesday, November 19/2014

To King's Cross by tube and then train to Luton Airport. Luton is a warehouse of an airport but the EasyJet staff are friendly enough, no doubt trying to identify themselves as different from Ryan Air. Seats have a tight 29 inch pitch but for a four and a half hour flight it's not too bad. The woman next to us pays £9.40 ($16.90 CAD) for an egg salad and tomato sandwich and two cups of tea, one of which she spills on the tray and herself - but, fortunately for us, not in our direction. We've brought sandwiches and hot cross buns and water, but presumably we do benefit indirectly from the prices charged for food, lottery tickets, seat selection, etc, as we only paid £107 ($192 CAD) for two one way tickets, checked suitcases included. Not at all bad for a flight of close to 2000 miles.

Dark when we land, but warm, and we take the local bus in to Paphos, the Kato Paphos bus station being only a couple of blocks from our hotel.

Tuesday, November 18/2014

Last day in London, this round anyway. Luckily, it is also the day that linguist Lynne Murphy, who blogs under rhe name Lynneguist (fascinating blog on UK/US - and other - variations of the English language) is giving a talk at University College London on "polite" words - please, thank you, sorry - and their varied meanings and uses. Picked this up from Lynne's Twitter feed and, happily, she confirmed that non-university people were welcome.  Deserved a prize for near success in the maze of UCL buildings. Get close, but a room that appears to have the right number is simply labelled "plant room". Boiler? Orchids? Get re-directed to a seminar room where we are indeed the only non-u types. 

Interesting talk, particularly on what is perceived as politeness US style (friendliness, egalitarianism) and UK (non-intrusiveness, preserving right to privacy). Very friendly atmosphere and everyone invited back for a drink and a chat in the linguistics work area. Nice to meet Lynne after years of enjoying her blog.

Monday, November 17/2014

First, apologies to anyone trying to read this with a magnifying glass. Not surprised if no one reads it at all. Seem to have lost, inexplicably, all ability to control font size. Will continue to pursue this; there must be a simple solution.

Changes in Our parts of London since last April:

Inverness Street market has finally lost the remaining fruit and veg stall. After years of being nosed out by competitors selling everything from souvenirs to cheap clothes, it's gone - the cheerful blokes who sold better-than-supermarket veg in all weathers, and for better than supermarket prices and without a self serve till.

Beggars seem now a permanent fixture on Queensway. There was always the odd one but seemed more like temporary financial problem than way of life.

Cheap day of tickets at the National Theatre have gone, over the past couple of years, from £10 to £15. Admittedly still a bargain, but they've been a standby of pensioners as well as the young, and neither student grants nor pensions have increased by 50% over the same period.

Sunday, November 16/2014

To Westminster Cathedral for 10:30 Mass, with full choir including the boy sopranos. Thirty-third Sunday in Ordinary Time and full church as always. The choir is superbbut the PA system doesn't do very well with the spoken word - neither of us catches more than about one word in ten. Unusually, there is no second collection, but we do encounter a second opportunity for charity. In the midst of the construction surrounding Victoria Station an enterprising (or desperate) busker has picked up an orange road pylon and is using it more or less like a kazoo, entoning the notes for "Fly Me to the Moon" and using his baseball cap to collect the contributions. Not the best musician I've passed this season, but the first I've stopped to fund. 

Supper at the Indian Veg in Chapel Market. Lovely fruit salad and curries. Take our own small bottles. Of Tempranillo with us. Last time until April.

Saturday, November 15/2014

We have tickets to Great Britain at Theatre Royal Haymarket. It's a satire not-all-that-loosely based on the recent scandals of the (mostly gutter) press involvement in phone hacking and their incestuous relationship with the police. Unsubtle, but fast paced, hard hitting and witty at times. Thoroughly enjoyable. Not terribly full at the matinée, which works in our favour as our tickets, bought fairly cheaply through the Telegraph website, have been upgraded from galleries to stalls. Ten rows back and in the centre - actually couldn't be any better. And the play is fun, starring Lucy Punch, better known to us as the first receptionist on Doc Martin. Actually written and secretly rehearsed while the Brooks and Coulson trials were taking place and made public immediately after the verdict.

Astonishingly busy when we get out. Dark now, and the pavements just buzzing with activity and excitement. Piccadilly tube station so full it's not easy to see where the Bakerloo line signs are.

Friday, November 14/2014

J off to Southbank and Strutton Grounds and I to West Harrow to see Jean. Can see I'm going to arrive early and it's a nice day so get off at Harrow-on-the-Hill and walk. Tea and chat on everything from family to linguistics.

Thursday, November 13/2014

Roses On Kilburn High Road for the Thursday special - the best lamb kleftiko anywhere, Mediterranean included. The café is interesting as always, and not merely for rhe excellent food. It's foremost a neighbourhood eatery, and most of the patrons are locals, probably regulars. As we walk in the five tables for two along the right hand side are all occupied by lone men, here for a cuppa or their supper. The one nearest us dozes over his empty mug while others eat or read the newspaper. Two women about our age at the next table are taking advantage of a warm corner. The one with the Irish accent talks; her friend listens. They're sharing an order of bread and butter and a small order of chips. One of the women makes a bit of a sandwich with the chips. When we leave we ask to take the remainis of the enormous legs of lamb with us, and the Irish woman gives our table a long, silent look. Devastating, but, amongst adults in a first world country, a problem with no solution.

Wednesday, November 12/2014

Starbucks fully functional this morning. Not so the Saatchi Gallery, one of our regular stops, where the gallery is unexpectedly closed for a private event. So on to the South Bank as the sun and mild air shouldn't be wasted. Stop at Tate Modern to check out the latest installation in the enormous turbine hall. It's an enormous bright fabric and wood piece called "I Don't Know" by Richard Tuttle. Cheerful, but not in the runnung for our all time favourites.

Greenwich for crumble at Goddard's Pie shop - our favourite for 20 years or so, but a Greenwich icon since 1890. We choose apple and black currant, with lashings of custard, and think of new uses for our own currants. Jubilee line delayed by "a person on the line" - an almost daily event somewhere in the system. Must be truly horrible for those who have to deal with it

J mends an umbrella found abandoned on King's Road, Chelsea. We're currently one up so a loss must be on the cards.

Tuesday, November 11/2014

Over for the usual Starbucks office start to the day only to find that their wifi is down. Share this happy news with an American unpacking his laptop. He's quite annoyed. " it was down last night, so this morning I asked THREE times before I got my coffee. British infrastructure is third world." He's wrong about communications infrastructure, which is, overall, better than North American, but the frustration is understandable.

Then to the Imperial War Museum on an appropriate but busy day. It's been renovated recently and looks quite classy, but it takes me a while to find my old favourite, the smallest boat still extant from the Dunkirk evacuation, a brave little craft that looks too small to have crossed the channel. An expedition impressive enough that I was an adult before I realised that Dunkirk was not a victory.

There's an interesting exhibit on espionage and we also watch a some short period films. One shows reconstruction in southern Italy at the end of the war, a moving view of barefoot girls carrying rocks for construction, men repairinge ancient locamotives, olive groves being cultivated again. Another film shows reconstruction in immediate postwar Germany, as people live amidst the rubble, allowed 1000 to 1200 calories a day and tested medically by the occupying Allied forces to see if that was enough!

There's a talk in the evening at the London School of Economics on Kurdish nationalism and the Kurdish liberation struggle in the light of current events. We're interested enough to arrive early and surprised that they haven't chosen a larger room. Then the presentation by Dr. Yaniv Voller of the University of Edinburgh, who is launching a book on Kurdish nationalism. Try to be charitable, but the talk is disappointingly superficial and the question period even more disappointing. Dr Voller must, presumably, know more than we do about the Kurds, but fails to convey it. The questioners, on the other hand, are informed and provocative - and get little in the way of answers. I am so tempted to stand up at the end and say that there is so much depth of knowledge and passion in the room - could we go to the pub and have a real discussion. We share the lift as we're leaving with Kurds who seem to have much the same view, sadly minus the thought about the pub. Ah well.

Monday, November 10/2014

Back by train from Thames Ditton, as far as Wimbledon with Elaine and Phil weho are on their way into London to see the poppies. Not much time left, and not many chances if you live as far north as Yorkshire. Some talk last night on the north south divide and injustices of same. Could have been talking about northern Ontario.

Pick up tthe train tickets for next Wednesday run out to Luton Airport so that's done. St Pancras always feels slightly festive. Sign for the champagne bar? Stop at the little John Lewis there to admire the new ipads. Ipad mini 3 newly released and fingerprint accessible. Will it recognize more than one print? Oh yes, says the bubbly girl. Ten - so no need to amputate the husband's thumb for convenience of portability.

Sunday, November 9/2014

To Thames Ditton and a visit with Jenny and Doug. Watch Remembrance Sunday program, including her majesty ignoring terrorist threats and laying wreath at the cenotaph. Then Jenny's mum and Laura and Cody arrive for lunch,mas well as Elaine and Phil from Yorkshire. Lovely to get together again and J&D, E&P, and J and I go for a walk in a park just past Hampton Court. Lots of dog friends for Brownie, who is delighted at being off the lead. The park runs along the Thames and there are fascinating houseboats and riverside cottages, some on an island an accessible only by motorboat or dinghy. Possibly inconvenient but charming and immensely covetable.

Doug's sister Kathleen and her husband drop in for a visit and we have the first g&t's of the Cyprus season. Well, sort of, anyway. Then dinner - roast beef and pie with custard and cheese plate and talk until midnight. What life is for.