We live our lives forever taking leave - Rilke

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Monday, 8 December 2025

Monday, December 8/2025

 

Loudspeaker (seems like the wrong word because it’s really not offensively loud) broadcasts  the adhan, or call to prayer, from local mosques five times a day. Occasionally there are other messages broadcast, for example on the anniversary of the death of some important personage. Since these are in Turkish, we obviously don’t understand them, although on public holidays it’s easy enough to guess the import.

This morning there is a soft spoken message - woman’s voice. Followed pretty shortly by the unusual sound of a plane overhead. We’re not on a normal flight path. Can only assume that we’re not about to be attacked. If there were a major problem it would show up pretty quickly on the internet. Quite a change from the early days of our travels when we carried a little shortwave radio, purveyor mainly of static. Ear pressed to the speaker and thumb twiddling the dial hoping for English. Well aware that World War Three could break out and we would have no clue. Which might have had its advantages.

But nothing worse than more rain. Does seem a pity that there’s drought in the growing season and then rain in the winter - though much more sun than rain even in winter. And inside making soup from the chicken carcass, eating the rest of the olive bread, reading books, listening to jazz. No complaints.





Sunday, 7 December 2025

Sunday, December 7/2025


 Storm Byron not quite finished with us so rains off and on throughout the day. By late afternoon - about sunset - the rain has stopped, though undoubtedly not done for the week, so we nip down to the little supermarket to restock.

Can smell bread baking as we walk in and sure enough it’s in the oven, an oven that helpfully lets us know there are ten minutes remaining until it’s finished baking. The loaves are long and the girl kindly tells us what we can’t see or smell: “olives”. It’s olive bread.

Buy oranges for the first time this year as we’re pretty well finished harvesting what’s reachable. Still have orange juice J squeezed in the fridge though. By the time we’re finished with the rest the girl has the hot olive bread in a paper bag for us.

Wait for the itemised receipt after putting everything in  our bag. They tend to forget and it looks like most customers don’t bother. It’s not that we’re likely to be overcharged, and if something did have to be returned they’d probably take our word for it. We’re regulars. But the receipts are a useful reminder of prices and, more importantly, they’re helpful in learning bits of Turkish for the items we most frequently buy, particularly produce. Most things do have a sign with name and price in the shop, but - as in other countries - the price you are looking for is frequently the one that is missing.





Saturday, 6 December 2025

Saturday, December 6/2025


Courtesy mayor of Girne
Quite the storm last night. Varied with location but significant hail in Girne it seems. Smaller hits here. Though happy to see that remaining bird sh*t on the teras (Turkish teras happy equivalent to English terrace) has been washed away.

Apparently the storm has a name - Byron. Appropriate name for the dark,  turbulence of last night’s wind and rain. Southern Greece and the islands experienced it more violently yesterday, with schools closed in Athens due to massive flooding, as a catchment area outside the city recorded 245 mm of rain - close to ten inches - in just over a day.

Windy here today and showery with occasional lightning, but still warm.


Friday, 5 December 2025

Friday, December 5/2025

Courtesy Zoe Denise Koca 

Major storm warnings as a weather system moves in from the northwest. Happy that there’s wind but no rain in the afternoon as we walk down for the weekly gathering at the Blue Song. 

Zoe, whose radar shot is on this page, lives a few miles east of us but the same system is giving us strong winds, heavy rain, spectacular lightning - both to the north and south of us - and hail this evening.

Cosy inside - and so far both electricity and internet. Knock on wood!

Thursday, 4 December 2025

Thursday, December 4/2025


Always slightly surprising when we go out first thing on an overcast December morning and realise that the temperature is the same outside as in - in this case twenty degrees. Another lovely hibiscus on the hedge, and a bud beneath it so the next one will be along soon. 

Comments in the local press regarding co-operation on family issues and programs between North Cyprus and Azerbaijan. Nothing major but North Cyprus not recognised by many countries - well actually only by Türkiye - so all forms of international respect welcomed. Not that this amounts to formal recognition, but it’s valued anyway. Probably unrelated but one of the local supermarkets has Azerbaijani wines on sale for 99 lira ($3.25 CAD, £1.74). Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon - a step up from simply “red” - and quite drinkable. 

Still sixteen degrees as we go out to admire the last supermoon of the year directly above the terrace.



Wednesday, 3 December 2025

Wednesday, December 3/2025

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Errand day. Stop at Telsim to try to revive our mobile phone sim. Mixed feelings about it. Now no longer have a Canadian mobile account since our last provider folded when we were just about to leave for the winter anyway. Do have a cheapie UK account. Would find it convenient to have a Turkish Cypriot account to communicate with government, which understandably doesn’t wish to have to send international messages. Several competing caveats:

* Rarely use mobile for phone calls or texts - anywhere but UK. Elsewhere WiFi/VOIP for almost everything

* In TRNC can use WhatsApp for almost everything except government communication, when WiFi available 

* Can use UK sim in Canada but many friends can’t respond to non-North American

* If non-TRNC sim used in TRNC for more than 3 months, phone is cut off

* Increasingly correspondence with organisations demands a mobile number. Online forms won’t work without. Humans unavailable to discuss options

* Many forms that request a phone number are not designed to accept a non- North American number.

Notwithstanding all of the above, on rare occasions when it’s important to make an actual, non WiFi enhanced call it can be extremely important, though presumably if an ambulance were required someone better equipped would summon it. And in fact many phones will make an emergency call without a functional sim. Or so the phones say. Obviously reluctant to make a test call.

Nice young lady at Telsim undertakes to communicate with head office re our having cleared previous minor debt with same down to a misunderstanding. We inquire about their inexpensive seniors’ plan. She hesitates and then asks our ages. You have to be over 65. So far we’re sold on her, if not on Telsim.





Tuesday, 2 December 2025

Tuesday, December 2/2025





I spend most of the morning thinking it’s Monday. Luckily J not suffering from similar misapprehension and sets me straight. Fortunate because we’re booked to go to the Black Olive to see the Kyrenia Amateur Dramatic Society’s Christmas production.

Would have been a shame to have missed it because it’s great fun - satirical farce on the theme of nativity plays, written and directed by Beverley. Full house for opening night (of three). Think that amounts to sixty some people, seated at tables of eight,  as it’s dinner theatre. First act, followed by a turkey dinner and then the second act.

All done by nine o’clock, which is good. Not that we’re old, but the dolmușes are pretty thin on the ground after nine and it’s about a four kilometre walk. Nice night and nearly full moon but still happy to get a ride almost immediately.



Monday, 1 December 2025

Monday, December 1/2025


Don’t know what it is about this spot on our way down to the little supermarket, but we can always hear - but not see - song birds chirping like crazy as we approach. Fewer flowers to be seen in December - the jasmine is pretty well gone - but there’s no point at which we’re not treated to floral displays.

The  Cyprus Mail reports the lighting of public Christmas trees and decorations. That’s a major cultural difference between North and South. The North, being mainly Muslim, doesn’t celebrate Christmas, although many expat groups do, of course. Interesting that the South observes it when it does. Traditionally the Orthodox Churches followed the Julian calendar, and the Russian and various other Orthodox Churches still do. One of the many Orthodox areas of dissent has led to the churches in Cyprus and a number of other countries adopting a “modified” Julian calendar, which allows Christmas to be celebrated on December 25 but leaves the calculation for Easter to the original Julian formula. 

The strangest thing for Canadians in the South was the hybrid nature of the observance. Don’t know whether this is the same in other warm climates that we haven’t experienced, but it definitely feels odd walking through supermarkets in December listening to someone singing “let it snow, let it snow, let it snow”. 

Sunday, 30 November 2025

Sunday, November 30/2025


Love looking at the sea every morning, and as the colour changes throughout the day. Have found a site that shows 144 different shades of blue, complete with names (useful) as well as Hex, RGB, and CMYK codes (well beyond my blogging requirements). Think this morning’s sea is Beau Blue, a faint blue grey, although there are other possibilities. Sometimes the demarcation between sea and sky completely disappears and other times the sea is a dark, vibrant blue - or even multicoloured. 

Another day of contrasts. Wake to strong winds. Chairs still on the terrace, although I think the wind would have to lift them a good two metres to do anything other than shuffle them about. Intermittent spots of rain but wouldn’t amount to more than a splat in a gauge. East of us, on the Karpaz peninsula, there are reports of hail, though.

Saturday, 29 November 2025

Saturday, November 29/2025


Saturday is market day, though for various reasons we have not gone for the last couple of weeks.  Christmassy things for sale - cards and decorations. We will take out a few things we’ve saved as we travel, but not yet. It’s still November!

Do buy an Ian Rankin novel from the animal rescue booth. Goes into the read aloud pile. We’ve probably read almost all of his as we’ve travelled. And watched Rankin develop as a novelist. The only crime writer we read together.

Are about to leave the market when we spot, almost hidden, a carton with a half dozen free range eggs. Well, actually hidden, it seems. Toni’s husband, whose free range hens they came from, tells us Toni had set them aside for us, the last carton. Forty-five Turkish lira ($1.36 CAD, £.80). One of the true bargains in this country.

J has set up on the terrace with the hot glue gun in order to repair the soles of our shoes and sandals. 


Friday, November 28/2025


Temperatures still reliably in the twenties. Pleasant breeze as we walk down to the Blue Song. Whitecaps in evidence. Commonly known in British English as white horses. And apparently in French as moutons - fair enough.

Beverley busy as usual. Actually busier, as she’s drawing up seating arrangements for next week’s Christmas dinner theatre put on by Kyrenia Amateur Dramatic Society. Happily I am reminded when J asks if it’s next week. Somehow December still feels like distant future - as opposed to Monday. Temperature is deceptive, and this despite twenty one Christmases in Cyprus - beginning in 2000 minus two in Canada and one in England.


Sun setting behind the mountain at quarter to five as we walk home. Just over three weeks until the winter solstice, and of course we’re living on the north slope of a mountain. Much later sunset on the south side.

Thursday, 27 November 2025

Thursday, November 27/2025

Baba Ganoush

Unsettled weather leads to peasant style cooking as well as reading. So yesterday the remaining eggs went into, or more accurately onto, a tomato and pepper sauce. Basically a Middle East shakshuka, where the eggs poach on top. Next time will go for menemen, the Turkish equivalent in which the eggs are scrambled into the sauce, in a breakfast classic.

And today J makes humus and I make baba ganoush, the tahini, garlic and lemon serving for both dips. And we finish with J’s lovely pot of borsch. 

(Brief debate with spell check. It wants me to write borscht. The ‘t’ doesn’t exist in the Polish pronunciation of the word. Brought to North America via the Yiddish. But ok, admit I’m spelling the Polish word with English phonetics. Actual Polish is barszcz. Which spell check considers too strange to argue with).

Minor query. Why do recipes claiming to be hundreds of years old begin with “in a food processor…”?

Wednesday, 26 November 2025

Wednesday, November 26/2025


 Winter is our reading season, not that we don’t read during the rest of the year. In the early years we wrecked suitcases carrying books for the winter - always too few and having to meet a number of criteria. No hard covers (too heavy). No books that we wanted to keep, as we had to trade as we went. Only books of interest to both of us. 

Often we were in countries where English language books were difficult to find, which meant our tastes became, of necessity, more eclectic, as we acquired books that had been left in hotel lobbies or reposed in the tiny “foreign” section of second hand book shops in non-English countries. We still occasionally see a reference to a book - most recently Evelyn Waugh’s satirical novel Scoop (1938) - and realise that we read it, years ago, mostly because it was there.

The enormous change for us came with the introduction of e-books. We knew they existed, but our first sight of one came in St Stephen’s Green, Dublin,  famous for its role in the Easter 1916 Irish Uprising. We shared a park bench with a man who was using a book reader. He said he loved “real” books but was travelling with ten books on the reader. We were sold.

Not only could we travel with as many books as we wished but we were no longer limited to daytime reading in a world of hotels lit by badly placed 40 watt light bulbs. (And yes, J has been known to replace them with higher wattage). 

Meanwhile “real” books have become much easier to find in non English speaking countries. (Though there always were surprising exceptions, like the overflowing second hand book shop in Antalya, Türkiye in 2001 where the multilingual proprietor assumed that we must be as familiar with the work of Canadian political philosopher John Ralston Saul as he was). Charity shops became a good source where there were expat communities. Here the animals rescue people have an excellent booth at the weekly market.

And so we have books. Hard cover, soft cover, e-books. More than we’ll probably finish but happy choices. Real books to read outside in the sunlight and e-books for the iPads at night. And, as we’ve always done, several designated for the old Victorian custom of reading aloud so we can share the enjoyment and discuss them, although we do other reading separately as well. Currently the shared books are: 

* commentator/journalist John Simpson’s Unreliable Sources, surveying trends and biases in twentieth century reporting 

* Irish writer Roddy Doyle’s highly engaging memoir of his parents, Rory and Ita, most of it in their own words, as they experienced life in Ireland from the 1930’s to the 1970’s

* Peter Oborne’s recently released (last month, another advantage to ebooks is the immediate availability) book  Complicit, a “fearless and forensic” examination of Britain’s role in the destruction of Gaza.



Tuesday, 25 November 2025

Tuesday, November 25/2025

Courtesy philenews

Crazy weather. Intermittent heavy rain showers here. Some thunder. Reports of a Tornado hitting on the town of Avgorou near the  northeast coast of the Republic of Cyprus (South). Also reports from the South of damage caused by lightning strikes.

And, with no necessary relationship, a 3.1 magnitude earthquake this morning in the Paphos area. South coast. Not particularly unusual. 

AccuWeather about as helpful as usual. Look it up as the first heavy rainfall begins and am assured that there will be no rain for the next sixty minutes. Presume longer term forecasts similarly unreliable.

Monday, 24 November 2025

Monday, November 24/2025


 Early morning air soft and slightly misty. Lovely breeze. If we were in Canada and the air felt like this I’d expect rain soon. In London we’ve learned that it might well rain but it might equally well not. The damp slightly overcast bit is no indication one way or the other.


Looking north, toward the sea, there is also a muted haze. You can still see the demarcation where the sea meets the sky but they’re both blue greys. The azure saved for sunnier weather.

And the forecast? The theory is that there will be showers tonight and into tomorrow. So go to the shop to collect bread and yoghurt in case it’s wet in the morning but not betting the pension on it. And, as for AccuWeather’s thunderstorm warning, the accu bit has always been a bit of a misnomer.

Sunday, 23 November 2025

Sunday, November 23/2025


 The North Cyprus reservoir. At the west side of the island. I took the photograph seven or eight years ago. The reservoir as beautiful as it looks but much larger as only a wide angle lens would have done it justice. 

The source of the water is Turkey and it is supplied through a 107 km undersea pipeline able to carry 75 million cubic metres annually. It’s still barely enough, partly due to desertification with climate change and partly because people everywhere simply use much more water than their ancestors did - even those without swimming pools.

The quality of the water is marginally adequate. No problem for brushing teeth but should be boiled for drinking water. So most people choose between filters or using bottled water for drinking. Happily, Mehmet, the nice man who delivers our gas cylinders when needed, also delivers nineteen litre bottles of water. Also, happily, we don’t need to establish a regular amount or schedule. I just send him a WhatsApp message asking for a bottle of water the next day and he cheerfully obliges. Should be here tomorrow. A small manual pump fits in the mouth of the bottle so no stand required. A hundred lira a delivery ($3.30 CAD, £1.80). Lasts us about a week.

Saturday, 22 November 2025

Saturday, November 22/2025


 Two thirds of the way from the autumn equinox to the winter solstice but no one seems to have informed the flowers or whoever is in charge of the temperature. Seventeen degrees when we wake up at about seven o’clock and a predicted high of 27.

We take the dolmuș over to see Doğan as we have some papers to collect. He’s busy, as always, this time involved in the formation of a new political party. Interestingly no current members of parliament are permitted to apply. No doubt we will eventually hear more, hindered somewhat by our inability to read Turkish and follow the party’s fortunes in the local press.

Everywhere we go there are flowers. Pass this trumpetbush on the way to Doğan’s office, round the corner and up the hill from Dima. Dima is a useful stopping spot on a dolmuș trip. Not nearly as useful as it once was, though. Once upon a time it had reliably good specials on wine. Now no better than our local grocery store and not as good as Șokmar. Suppose it’s good to know that going farther doesn’t mean better deals - just farther to carry them.

Friday, 21 November 2025

Friday, November 21/2025


 Still eating our own oranges. They have grown a little but still suffering from a year of drought. Sweet, though. But we have, as the saying goes, picked most of the low hanging fruit already, and the lovely ripe oranges we can see at the top of the tree are mostly out of reach. And would be even if we were to acquire a stepladder.

So J has devised an orange picking tool. It’s on the end of a broomstick - a plastic bottle cut to pluck and collect one orange at a time. And yes, it works.

Thursday, 20 November 2025

Thursday, November 20/2025



Courtesy KıbrısOnAir

Typical North Cyprus arrest story. Well, not entirely typical, because the person arrested in this case is a teacher who stole the money she had been collecting from students for gym fees. That has to be unusual in any venue. Because it’s wrong, because most teachers care about their students, and also, of course, because the odds of getting away with it must have been non-existent.

Not unusual to show photographs of the arrest. Face obscured to protect the guilty. As in other jurisdictions it seems to be important to report the perpetrator’s age and not only when he or she seems to be unusually old or young to have committed the crime - as in car theft by a nine year old or ninety-nine year old. 

What is unusual, although standard operating procedure here, is to provide the initials of the accused. In this case “a 37-year-old teacher, identified by her initials E.S.” Presumably everybody in the relevant Nicosia school - and their friends and relations - already know her name and much more. It hides her identity only from the likes of us who are far removed from the situation. 

Is interesting to know that “the suspect had 7,280 Turkish Lira in her possession, which was taken as evidence”. Not an enormous sum ($241.71 CAD, £131.56) and considerably less than the 25,000 lira she is said to have stolen from the students. But how on earth would it constitute evidence? Had the students marked the notes before handing them in? Endless speculation.




Wednesday, 19 November 2025

Wednesday, November 19/2025


 Bougainvillea thriving on the mountain side of the flat. Always almost as delighted by its name as by its appearance, and with only minimal embarrassment quote from my own blog of 2018:

Bougainvillea should have a special meaning for Canadians, as it was named in honour of Louis Antoine de Bougainville, who was an aide-de-camp to Montcalm but, luckier than Montcalm, survived the battle for Quebec and accompanied the Chevalier de Lévis to St Helen’s Island off Montreal for the last stand of France in Canada. But bougainvillea obviously comes from a warmer climate. It was in fact discovered (in Brazil?) and named for Bougainville during a trip to circumnavigate the globe. Not that this was by any means the end of Bougainville’s adventures. After South Sea exploration he found himself with France on the side of the rebels in the American Revolution, and took part in the Battle of Chesapeake.

Actually that’s a pretty condensed view of his accomplishments. An astonishing man. 

Not only sunny and warm, but a nice breeze, so a good day for washing - and drying - sheets. Laundry usually dries very quickly here.


A quarter to six when the power goes off. Meal mostly made. Curry sauce still warm but other bits need reheating. First question is how widespread is the outage. Definitely our building and the place next door. There are lights on higher up the hill from us but seem to be some missing lower down. As we’re assessing the streetlight beside our place goes out. So pour a glass of wine and consider the merits of finishing the meal on the gas stove by somewhat inadequate lamp light versus settling for something simplified. When the lights come back on.

Finish the meal with no further electrical interruptions and look to see how the neighbourhood is faring. Seems our immediate neighbours have power but from us down to the sea is all in darkness. Looks like those who had lights when ours first failed have lost them.

Amongst the many charms of blogger is the program’s refusal to provide the chosen font sizes when asked nicely. Even when a passage is retyped it may or may not comply. Meanwhile am considering a second career writing ransom notes.