Thursday, January 9/2025

 Lamb is the preferred meat in the North. The country is predominantly Muslim, and while there seems to be no visceral dislike of pork - most supermarkets sell tinned ham (expensive, probably Danish) and frozen side bacon is easily available though very pricey - it is simply not part of the culture. No one grew up eating it. Lamb is definitely traditional and excellent but has become very expensive. In common with much of Europe - in fact in common with virtually all the European countries that do not prefer pork - chicken is the meat most frequently eaten. It’s very good. Much better than any we get in Canada (with the glorious exception of Mike Quince’s). And it’s not expensive.

But a  sixty-nine year old Turkish Cypriot man with more nerve than morals or brains visited a supermarket in the western town of Güzelyurt on New Year’s Eve and stole lamb meat and a bottle of wine. Total value 949.67 lira ($38.69 CAD, £21.85). That might have been that but apparently he was a man with higher standards for food than ethics. He returned it to the same supermarket the next day complaining that the meat stank and demanding a refund  and the store duly refunded him 809.68 lira ($32.98 CAD, £18.62). Presumably he had already consumed the wine and could no longer claim it had been unsatisfactory.

The supermarket staff were apparently suspicious and reported the matter to the police who investigated and, according to the Cyprus Mail “found evidence linking the man to the crime”. Difficult to imagine what, other than, perhaps, CCTV footage. The empty wine bottle would hardly have done it. But unwilling to call it quits the man went back to the same supermarket - and no, Güzelyurt isn’t that small so there would be more than one - and stole a further 645.92 lira ($26.31 CAD, £14.86) worth of groceries. Police continue to investigate.

Wednesday, January 8/2025

 Spot the moon hovering in the distance behind two yellow roses as we walk down to the store for essentials - like honey and mushrooms. Not yet three o’clock but sunset will be at 16:51 - somewhat earlier for those of us who live on the north slope of a mountain. Daylight is now, in theory, nine hours and fifty-five minutes. Significant overlap of sun with the moon, which should now be visible for fourteen hours and seventeen minutes, rising at noon and setting at seventeen minutes after two in the morning.

Tuesday, January 7/2025

 

This time of year in the Republic of Cyprus (South) was always festive, if sometimes in unfamiliar and slightly disturbing ways. From December 24 or 25 until January 6 it seemed nothing but celebration, with New Year’s thrown in as a secular bonus. In the public arena at least January 6 - Epiphany - seemed at least as important as Christmas, possibly more so. The baptism of Jesus always meant solemn parades from church to waterfront with the Church more than militant. Episcopal robes and banners supported by the military bearing automatic weapons. A combination of nationalism and religion that can be seen in many of the Greek Cypriot statements regarding the division of the island. Always difficult - from the first crusade to the war in Gaza -  when the  political argument for a boundary relies on deus vult - God wills it. [Predictive text less than helpful - tried to render deus vult as dues vultures].

A festive season that is not quite over - not here where celebration is linked to quite other feasts, but in parts of the Orthodox world where today is Christmas. Had always wondered why Greece and Cyprus celebrated Christmas on December 25, as in Saskatchewan my Ukrainian Orthodox students observed it on January 7. The short version of the explanation (and mindful that in Orthodoxy schism is possible over the question of how many fingers should be used in making the sign of the cross) is that the Julian calendar was followed by all Christians initially but over time got increasingly out of sync with the solar year. When Pope Gregory approved a more accurate calendar in the 16th century Catholics and later Protestants switched to it but the Orthodox continued to use the Julian calendar for religious purposes, leading to them celebrating December 25 on what the rest of the world acknowledged to be January 7. Enter an inter-Orthodox gathering in 1923 which adopted a revised Julian calendar, essentially the same as the Gregorian one. The Greek Orthodox Church and most of its member Churches accepted it but the Russian Orthodox and a number of others did not. Enter Ukraine, which has traditionally, like my Saskatchewan students, celebrated on January 7 but now has moved - well not all of them - to December 25, a date not shared with Russia.

And our Christmas decorations? Should be able to get round to taking them down whenever  and be in harmony with someone.

Monday, January 6/2025

 On the way down to the grocery store we pass on the west side a lovely olive grove behind a stone wall. Today a man and a girl are trimming branches and throwing them over the wall for removal. Olive trees are protected and cannot be cut down or moved without permission. Even trimming is restricted. Although there are complaints that developers do not seem to abide by the same rules as everybody else.

At the store the tiny new potatoes are being sold at half the price of the regular (also pretty new) ones. So we buy them. In the South the tiny potatoes are also thought to be less desirable and are therefore cheaper than the full sized ones. Once told a seller that in Canada the little ones were usually more expensive. They were highly amused. Obviously from the school that believes all potatoes should be peeled and small ones are more work.

Have a couple of times received iMessages from someone who believes that my (Manitoba) mobile number is that of a friend called Heather. In the past I responded with“wrong number”and that was that. This time they came back asking what the right number was!

Me: Have no idea. You are obviously trying to reach someone I know nothing about. I don’t live in Manitoba.

Them: Oh, I see. the Heather I know DOES live in Manitoba.. sorry about that 🤓

Sunday, January 5/2025

 J takes advantage of surfeit of lemons overhanging the road to make lemon jam. Last year’s definitely a success so high hopes. The lemons are small so it takes a lot of them, but as he points out there are more where they came from. And in fact dead cheap at the store.

The south room looks toward the mountain and is protected by thick fifteen foot high flowering bushes. The only way to see in is from the patio which is only accessible through the flat. Or conceivably by climbing over the wall from Alexander’s patio next door. Not impossible but four to five feet high and Alexander - who would in any case knock on the door - is currently in Russia. Or, alternatively by entering the third flat and climbing over two walls. Which is obviously what someone had done yesterday, leaving me decently clothed and all but astonished when a young man waved and then introduced himself as a surveyor from the municipality. Pleasant chap, but surprising.

Saturday, January 4/2025

 The walk down to Lambousa market is always a pleasure even if there is nothing we need. And sometimes there are surprise offerings. The green beans and broccoli are every bit us nice as they were two weeks ago. The seller speaks no English but is happy to show us the price on his calculator and he has no shortage of buyers. Unfortunately the lady who sells the beautiful thick honey is not here today. We are not out but getting toward the bottom of the jar and some goes on the yoghurt every morning along with fruit and a little carob syrup.

Meet another Canadian talking to Beverley at the book stall. Robert lived in BC, practised as a doctor in the West Indies and then retired to north Cyprus with his wife who, interestingly, is Greek Cypriot but born in Girne (Kyrenia) North Cyprus before the island was divided.

Also at the market pick up a waste basket. Surplus to our requirements but (some) people getting out of cars they have parked immediately in front of our building tend to drop rubbish from their vehicles in the three foot gap between car and building. There is, in fact, a large  rubbish container with lid about fifteen feet away. Free to use (or at least covered by taxes) and contents collected regularly - almost daily - by the municipality. So the question now is would the kind of person who would not take a ten second walk to a skip to dispose of his or her cigarette pack be willing to drop it in a waste basket immediately beside the driver side door? An experiment is in progress.

Friday, January 3/2025

They have been building a house diagonally across the road for some time. Well, at least the past year. And a year ago it was pretty well hidden behind a very leafy lemon tree. But as construction continued the house became a little taller. Chimney added to the largish flat roof and, more disturbingly, rebar protruding at intervals around the roof. So another storey is planned. Only one? Well, only one if the height of the chimney is anything to go by. 

But actually in many Mediterranean countries the metal rods sticking out above the roof are quite common. Frequently the reason is the most obvious. Another storey is planned and initially there is not enough money to add it, but the rebar means that it is possible in the future. Or it is only contemplated but the option remains open.

And sometimes, in some places, rumour has it - but only in the past? Rebar on the roof was proof that a house was “unfinished”  and therefore taxable at a lower rate.

House in Crete

Thursday, January 2/2025

Courtesy  Cyprus Mail

 Do read the Cyprus Mail (South) semi regularly. It’s not the best newspaper in the world but it does publish seven days a week in English and includes stories not easily found elsewhere. It also leaves a reader’s fingers itching for a blue pencil.

Sometimes, in fairness, the problem is not down to writer or editor but to the staggering predictably of the story itself. As in the article today headlined Government Condemns New Orleans Attack. Though governments around the world must have made similar statements as microphones were shoved in the faces of heads of state.

There are occasional stories about the North, typically though not quite always casting it in a bad light. Today’s offering re the firing of a government personage who rejoiced in the title of Director of Religious Affairs needed no help in creating negativity. Ahmet Unsal has been fired effective February 1, although presumably the four week lag period is simply for salary purposes. He has held the position since 2021 and controversy is not new. Among his sins “…telling a seminar in Famagusta what he believed an ‘acceptable wife’ should do, with one of those things being that ‘you must accept your husband’s invitation to bed’”. Additionally he criticised women for having cats and jobs [in that order?] . 

Another comment cited may have been made light heartedly and almost certainly has suffered a little in translation. Unsal is quoted as saying “Marriages are expensive now, ladies are very expensive. You used to be able to buy four, so if one woman wasn’t enough, there would be three more”. Islam did traditionally allow a man to have up to four wives but in practice few did so, in part because of the proviso that all had to be treated equally. Though in fact in Türkiye, an officially secular country, polygamy has been illegal for the last hundred years. And in practice TRNC is significantly more secular than Türkiye.

Still a number of parliamentarians have been enraged by the man, and the prime minister has announced that his tenure is over.

Wednesday, January 1/2025

 

So it’s 2025. Did stay up last night to see it in with a toast at midnight - but barely. Think there was a concert and possibly fireworks in Girne but had no intention of going. Quiet and peaceful evening here.

And storms seem to have blown themselves out. We’re back to sunshine and warmth. Temperature today 17, which is pretty well the average for January, but warmer obviously in the sun.

Not spring, of course. Barely past the winter solstice. But note that the next door neighbour’s grapevines, very slightly overhanging our patio, are developing new green leaves. 

So we sit with a drink overlooking the sea and read aloud, taking advantage of the sunshine before the - still early - sunset.

Tuesday, December 31/2024

 

Happy New Year

Heavy rain, reported locally as 56 kg per square meter. Have never seen it measured that way. There do seem to be sites that purport to translate to more familiar terms but don’t pursue them. Content myself with wondering whether this does or does not mean roofs will fall in. At any rate ours not the worst. The next village rejoiced in 74 kg per square meter. 

Meanwhile a heading in the Cyprus Mail (South) announces Bicommunal Action to Overcome Alien Invasions. It does take some significant impetus to persuade Greek and Turkish Cypriots to co-operate in any official capacity. But can see that a Martian attack might indeed do it. However the actual story slightly less dramatic if equally worthy. Turns out that scientists and farmers from both sides of the border intend to work together to protect the island from invasive species.

And there’s an even happier story in the same paper which I am pleased to assume is accurate despite not having spotted it yet in a Northern source. The TRNC government, which yesterday announced a five percent VAT increase on a huge number of goods including many basic food items which had not previously been taxed at all, has apparently had second thoughts and decided not to impose the increase, which was to have been implemented tomorrow. Will of course affect us - or it seems not affected us - but the poorest people would as always have been hit the hardest as raising the price on food - even the most basic - would effectively have wiped out any advantage gained from the recent increase in minimum wage.

Rain 56 kg sa m

74 kg sa m

Bicommunal action to overcome alien invasions

Scientists and farmers from both sides of the line need to work together to protect the island’s trees from invasive species, 

Monday, December 30/2024

Hanging a towel out on the drying rack and spot the little cat that was sleeping beside our patio the other day. Curled up in the same spot near the honeysuckle and so well camouflaged by long grass that she would have been easy to miss. Can see that it’s a safe spot and suspect that she associates it with J as she examined his nearby chair pretty thoroughly last week, although he has prudently only left food on the other side of the road.

Really don’t want to acquire a cat. We’re not here year round so it would only have to be abandoned in the spring. Also think this is a female and it is definitely not neutered as the vets clip the corner of an ear after neutering. Absolutely no desire to find ourselves responsible for a litter of kittens. And not at all likely that it has a home if the edge of our patio is the best place to spend a chilly night.

Sunday, December 29/2024

Down to the grocery store for the first time since Christmas Eve - having been pretty well stocked up. But now in need of yoghurt and cheese and bananas and tomato paste. And a surprise. The woman at the till hands us a small bag and opens it so we can see what is inside. A bottle of dry white Turkish wine, a small package of ground coffee and a little packet of salted peanuts. Christmas? Well, maybe. But this is not a country that celebrates Christmas. Not a public holiday. Language skills not up to a discussion on either side. But we are regular customers, and it is lovely.

Current read alouds are Believe Nothing Until it is Officially Denied, biography of the late Claud Cockburn, radical journalist, written by his youngest son, Patrick Cockburn, one of our favourite Middle East based journalists. A compelling read. And, for light relief, The Colours of all the Cattle, by the indefatigable Alexander McCall Smith - eighteenth in the Number 1 Ladies’Detective Agency series. Always a pleasure. 

Saturday, December 28/2024

The neighbours with the orchard opposite us have started a fire in their outdoor oven. Which always leads us to wonder about the welfare of their goat. At one point last year there were definitely two goats but recently have only heard one. Though really there are only two possible reasons for raising goats - for milk or meat. Nobody wants them as crazy pets. And crazy they are. There are frequent complaints about goats breaking into gardens and demolishing fruit trees. Apparently quite good at defeating metal fencing.

Do not remember having seen goat yoghurt in the grocery store. Or meat, for that matter, although could well have missed it. The Turkish is keçi - which can also be the term for a stubborn person.

Friday, December 27/2024

 Has rained much of the day, although not particularly distressing. December usually the wettest month and we had pretty good weather for Christmas. Can see from the radar map why looking out our north (seaside) window often shows black clouds when looking out the south (mountainside) window shows a brightening sky. Türkiye is about 110 km north of us - can see it on a clear day - and the weather there is often stormier. The south shore of Cyprus, on the other hand, is about 80 km south of us and the island is most frequently sunny. 

Speculation re the striking municipal workers had led us to wonder whether that meant the garbage would not be collected, but heard the truck go by late yesterday evening. For some reason this is usually a job done at night. Meanwhile in the South fake bin men have been reported going house to house asking for Christmas tips. The history of Boxing Day notwithstanding it had never crossed my mind that those collecting rubbish were particularly deserving of Christmas gratuities. Were people simply embarrassed into ante-ing up?

Meanwhile in the North a man fell foul of the law for different, but completely avoidable reasons. Nicosia residents phoned police to complain about a man playing music at excessive volume. Turns out he was an illegal resident and in attempt to escape he jumped from a ten meter high window and broke his leg. As Ralph, of TFR put it “if you have to fly under the radar and can’t manage it…’..

Thursday, December 26/2024

Evergreen? This country is always green. Although the carob trees seem to be going through a quiet winter phase. Happily the citrus trees are just coming into full fruit. Told J yesterday we were going to need another lemon as I was making the apple crumble and he went out and was back in five minutes with an armful of lemons. Much as he could have done in Canada with chives or oregano.

Apparently general strike of public service workers begins today. Not sure who that involves although guess we may find out. Rubbish collection? Large bins everywhere although suppose they would fill up faster than one might think if not emptied. Does this mean that if there were a power failure no one would be working to fix it? Handicapped by 1) list of affected unions uses only initials; 2) relevant information mostly in Turkish; and 3) FB maddeningly continues to insist that the Canadian government is responsible for its failure to let me read news - from North Cypriot and Turkish newspapers on a tablet in Cyprus posted by a group based in North Cyprus. 😵‍💫

Wednesday, December 25/2024

 If a bloke’s day begins with a drink and a cigar in the sunshine on the patio then it must be Christmas.

Pretty laid back Christmas. Twentieth one on the island. Think it’s the eighth in the North as there were several with Bill and Jane at Ship Inn in Girne when we were staying in the South.

No pressure re Christmas dinner as we have all day to make it. Nice plump chicken to roast in the oven and J makes dressing. We’ve opted for apple crumble for dessert. Not a problem despite lack of either measuring cups or scales but the custard is trickier. Would happily have gone with custard powder but in its absence guesstimate the amounts of milk and sugar and go with four egg yolks plus vanilla - and no corn starch. Not a hard call since we don’t have any. And luck is with us.

Pyrotechnics as well, as a thunder storm, happily not connected to a power outage, starts just as we begin eating. Dramatic end to a quiet day.

Tuesday, December 24/2024

Christmas Eve. Beautiful sunny, warm day so we’re off to the strip to get the missing bits for tomorrow. Dolmuş down to the Russian shop for salted herring and German garlic pork sausage. Surprised to meet John there also collecting sausage for Christmas.

 Then down to Besmar for veg. Potatoes on sale for 40 lira ($1.63 CAD, £0.91) a kilo, which is noticeably better than our local, though a fairly unimpressive commentary on the government’s effort to lower the price. Always nice produce here. Then Şokmar. Peanuts and - happy discovery - cigars. Dominican Republic. Not Cuba, but close. Could have custard powder here but expensive - and, more importantly, 800 grams is more than we’d use in two winters. So now committed to making my own without benefit of Bird’s. And last stop Ileli. Vanilla and J, bless him, has discovered Branston pickle. Still haven’t forgotten accidentally leaving a large jar of same on a bus in Türkiye in 2001, though the regret has faded somewhat.

So, errands accomplished. Walk up to Ankara Caddesi to take a dolmuş home. Well timed too. Dark clouds have formed and we’re no sooner back than it rains. But we have everything.

Monday, December 23/2024

Remembering past Christmases as I come across this photo from 2017. We still have the stained glass - OK, technically stained plastic - Christmas tree. It’s up on the window this year as well. But it loses a little in translation without a palm tree growing immediately outside the window.

And from the previous year, 2016, the memory box on Facebook produces this little gem:

‘Cyprus banks rock! Went to cash point this morning and too slow to prevent receipt being sucked slowly back into the works. Inquired within and they kindly retrieved it. Noticed table by the door laden with mixed nuts, dried fruit and crisps. Would I like some wine? I hesitate. Not quite 10 AM. Sun not only not over the yard arm but not in evidence at all. It's raining. But I should have a drink to warm up, they say. So I accept a small glass. In addition to wine there is zivania (local spirit) and two kinds of whisky on the table. Much laughter amongst the staff when I tell them that in Canada banks regard coffee and biscuits as a treat. "Here we do it for the customers on Christmas Eve and New Year's Eve."’

Do have to admit, though, that this particular bank branch office is no more. Gone in the international wave of small bank branch closures.

Sunday, December 22/2024

Missed having a jigger. Not particularly abstemious but prefer knowing what’s in the glass to the general slosh approach. So, happy to note that the little Turkish coffee cup - of which we have four, along with tiny saucers, awaiting the grand occasion on which we have guests and make Turkish coffee - is just the right size to serve as a jigger. 

At the grocery store J asks if I need sugar. I say we have sugar. This proves not to be the case, so that goes on tomorrow’s list. Assembling ingredients before Christmas, not that stores will close down on Christmas, but we may. And it may rain.

Note to self: there is no such thing as too many onions.

Saturday, December 21/2024

The winter solstice. Shortest day of the year and a sun cloud mix. But it’s warm enough. Hits twenty and the dogs are happy to enjoy lazing in the center of the Saturday market. 

As usual the used book stall is the most enticing. Pick up Tony Benn’s More Time for Politics, his diaries for the years 2001 to 2007, 2001 being the year he retired from his half century as a member of the British parliament. We were lucky enough to see him at his second last public appearance - in London in November of 2013. He died in March of 2014, the BBC obituary noting that he was one of the few British politicians who became more left-wing after having actually served in government.

Also an Ian Rankin novel and the memoirs of Nicholas Henderson, a British diplomat who served as ambassador to Poland, Germany and France as well as representing his country in the US. So well set up for reading. A far cry from the days when e-books were non-existent and English language books so thin on the ground in some countries we visited that we read whatever we found - resulting in some unusual choices, occasionally surprisingly rewarding.