Wednesday, December 4/2024

 

Courtesy of Cyprus Mirror

What passes for winter storms seems to be everywhere, the insult value somewhat greater where it has followed unusually pleasant autumn weather. Have watched unenviously reports of heavy snowfalls, cancellations, closed roads and major - sometimes fatal - accidents in various parts of northwest Ontario. Quite content to be here enjoying Cypriot version of winter. 

The Meteorology Department had issued a strong rainfall warning, with heavy showers expected to hit the region starting December 3. Residents urged to take precautions against potential risks, including floods, hail, and stormy winds. Well, why not cover all bases? Forgot to mention earthquakes, although one does occur off the coast of Türkiye near Alanya late this morning. Measuring 4.9 on the Richter scale and felt in Nicosia although not around here. Grateful that the heavy rain and stormy winds held off - just - until we got home last night. Storms all night, though and much of today. Good day for staying in cosily with books and tea. 

And discover this morning that the storm has removed one of the electrocuted bats from the wires.

Tuesday, December 3/2024

 Kyrenia Amateur Dramatic Association (KADS) has its annual Christmas performance, a comic whodunnit called Christmas Carols in Laptaland. Written and directed by Beverley, with a number of our Blue Song friends in the cast and otherwise involved. No surprise to those who had seen him before but Ralph turns out to be an excellent comic actor. Chicken dinner in the intermission. 

Rain mostly holds off and we catch what is probably the last dolmuş of the evening about 9:30. Pleased as the walk home would be about four kilometres, though admittedly it isn't cold. 

Monday, December 2/2024

Courtesy kibrispostasi.com

Investigation continues in the case of a bank manager brought to court on charges of embezzling 38,160,000 Turkish lira. Of course amounts in lira always sound astronomical but in hard currency this would not have been trivial - $1,564,603 CAD, £880,214. 

Cyprus Mirror circumspectly refers to the accused only as BK, employed by a bank branch in Nicosia, and even avoids mentioning the employee’s gender. Though this discretion may be made easier by the idiosyncrasies of the Turkish language, in which the story was presumably first written. Third person singular lacks gender in Turkish, so that he, she (and it) would all be represented by the Turkish pronoun o. However, did see an earlier account of the misappropriation in English where the manager’s name was given as Bahar Korakan and the pronoun used was she. In any case, it’s a small country and presumably the only people who would not already have heard the name of the accused would be foreigners.

The embezzlement seems to have been going on for two years or more, during which time the woman bought two BMW’s and lost a lot of money in casinos. This last is more than irresponsible - it’s also illegal. Casinos are legal and a major tourist attraction but TRNC citizens are not permitted to visit them, although it’s not news that some do. Due to the seriousness of the crimes, and also because she is considered a flight risk - and “flight” in this case could mean simply crossing the border to the South, albeit showing passport - Korakan is to remain in custody while the investigation continues. One suspects that otherwise the temptation to head for the border with a forged or stolen passport would be fairly high as the crimes in question are punishable by life in prison.

 

Sunday, December 1/2024

Courtesy KibrisOnAir.com

Have made no organised effort to keep track of the number of serious traffic accidents in TRNC over the last month but it seems excessive. And almost always down to poor driving rather than bad roads or inappropriate speed limits. Lots put down to drivers losing control of the car which has to be inattention, alcohol or excessive speed. Whiteouts and black ice not problems here. Penalties actually are fairly severe and arrests at the scene quite common - handcuff first and analyse the situation later - but as with many other crimes massive penalties seem not to be much deterrent. 

Courtesy Cyprus Mail

A Turkish Cypriot friend warned us to be careful, suggesting that the worst problem is poor drivers from Arab countries. However published names of offenders are almost always Turkish. Although this doesn’t distinguish between Cypriots and Turkish mainlanders. Which could be part of the problem as driving is on the left in Cyprus, both North and South, whereas in Türkiye it’s on the right. Addresses provided in news reports are almost always Cypriot though.

Quite happy not to drive here.

Saturday, November 30/2024

As elsewhere, food prices have been rising in North Cyprus. Some produce remains much cheaper than other places we’ve stayed - oranges, lemons, onions, carrots, aubergines, sweet peppers, eggs. And wine - though that’s probably a question of tax. Others much the same as elsewhere. And some products significantly more expensive, particularly those imported from places other than Türkiye. 

Recently though, the price of potatoes soared. Cyprus potatoes have an international reputation, probably due to the quality of the soil. The price increases led to calls to boycott. People asking other consumers to substitute bulgur or pasta until prices became more reasonable. And in fact we went from buying fewer potatoes to none at all as the price hit 100 lira ($4.03 CAD, £2.26) per kilo. Adding insult to injury this coinciding with a load of particularly old and ugly looking spuds. 

The government has apparently agreed as of Thursday to allow imported potatoes from Türkiye. However, prices have dropped, though not precipitously, before any of the agreed imports can have arrived. And the current bin at our grocery store has especially attractive potatoes. Leading one to wonder if conspiracy theories regarding who profits might have some merit.

Note rather late in the day that today is the feast of St Andrew. So a wee dram is called for. And it is wee indeed as there is almost no whisky left in the bottle of Scotch. There is a bottle of Irish whiskey (note the difference in spelling, which some take very seriously) with rather more remaining but drinking it on St Andrew’s Day wouldn’t be right.

Friday, November 29/2024

 Info today thanks to Ralph re the power failure yesterday. Apparently a high voltage line broke and the power plants were taken offline. An hour and a half outage seems reasonably good considering. 

Temperatures are reportedly running two to four degrees below seasonal norms. Not too bad. High today of eighteen. Sunset 16:09 though, as we creep nearer to the winter solstice. And always a little earlier on the northern slope of the mountains.

Regular Friday afternoon gathering at the Blue Song. Not too cool for draft beer outside. 

Sarah, to husband Ralph: Please don’t put your wine on my tab - I don’t have a tab.

Thursday, November 28/2024

 

The first electrocuted bat across from our window has been joined by a second. Looks like a really bad omen. A warning along the lines of decapitated heads of traitors displayed on spikes on London Bridge in Tudor times? Should probably be examining our consciences, but instead repair to Google. And discover that bats being electrocuted on wires not particularly rare despite our not having encountered the phenomenon before. Unlike birds, bats tend to hang upside down and are thus quite likely to touch two separate wires and become the circuit connector.

Had this second bat waited a few hours he might not have died as the power is turned off in our area for an hour and a half around supper time - well, to be precise as I am simmering a pasta sauce. Once more reason to be pleased about cooking with gas, although less light on the subject than usual.

Wednesday, November 26/2024

 J notes this morning that the missing Turkish flag on the mountain has been replaced already. Winds now back to normal levels. And on the other (east) side of us are the Turkish, Turkish Cypriot, and Swedish flags at the home of some still unidentified neighbour, presumably Swedish. Did meet a couple of Swedish people at the gathering in Çatalköy last Wednesday but they lived on the east side of the island. 

The Republic of Cyprus (South) has been making noises about wishing to join NATO, thus furthering the island’s traditional role as an unsinkable aircraft carrier. In particular President Christodoulides has spoken with outgoing President Biden and outlined “a bold plan for Cyprus’ future with NATO, including the possibility of US forces staying permanently on the island”. Hard to imagine what visions of dollar signs danced in his head. Civilian protests in Larnaca on the weekend opposing the growing militarization of Cyprus are unlikely to have moved him much. However Türkiye is a member of NATO and has pointed out that it has, and would use, its veto to prevent Cyprus’s accession. Though Türkiye too may have its price.

Tuesday, November 26/2024

 Winds have died down. Whitecaps have gone. Sea is a calm cerulean blue. A little cool but only light jacket weather. Down to the grocery store to replenish supplies. Can smell yeast as we walk in. Long white loaves in the oven but, happily, still one loaf of sourdough on the shelf, still warm.

Two dogs on the sidewalk opposite the store. They’ve found the sunny side of the street. Like most Cypriot owned dogs they have collars but spend their days unleashed and usually bothering no one. Frequently on the steps outside the store but never try to enter.

Posted today: ‘Two minibus [dolmuş] drivers came to blows this morning over an argument on the Lapta-Girne route on Ecevit Street Girne. Both men ages 36 and 25 ended up in hospital and were arrested.’ The dolmuşes are privately owned. They’re licensed by the municipality but are not a municipal service. The routes are determined by the municipality but the drivers are essentially in competition and it’s possible for an aggressive driver to overtake and scoop up passengers while his competitor is allowing an elderly person to board slowly. Have witnessed arguments as drivers got out of their vehicles to face off but never physical violence. It is true that the police practice here seems to be to arrest first, determine guilt second, and finally release those deemed not guilty.

Monday, November 25/2024

Courtesy gundemkibris.com

Apparently wind speed recorded yesterday at 118 kilometres per hour, as in 73.5 mph in old money. Certainly people reported having difficulty standing on the beach. We were content to observe the whitecaps from afar. Also reports of boats sinking in Girne harbour, which is scarcely surprising. 

Blowing today, but nothing like gale force. Temperature much lower than yesterday though, presumably thanks to the steady north winds coming from Türkiye. High today a pretty unusual 13.The Cyprus Mail claims temperatures will be unseasonably low until December 20. Am choosing to believe other sources that show steady recovery reaching twentyish by the weekend.

Sunday, November 24/2024

Courtesy Gündem Kıbrıs

Crazy weather, though it did come with advance warning. Almost entirely wind, much of it gale force coming in from the north, that is the sea side. We can see two large flags on the mountainside a little to the west of us and regularly check them for wind strength and direction. One is Turkish and the other the flag of North Cyprus.

We check them this morning and discover that the Turkish flag has been ripped off completely, leaving only a thin red ribbon where the top used to be. This must have happened in the night but the winds keep on full blast all day. The mayor of Girne, fifteen kilometres to the east of us has asked people to stay inside unless they absolutely have to go out. Not only are falling roofs and trees a hazard but some roads are impassable.

There have been power failures in parts of the island, though the electric company has done a pretty decent job of keeping up with repairs. Our municipality has told people that they can call the ‘solutions’ line. Probably a quirk of translation, but sounds so much nicer than a problem line.

A good day to stay in and read books and drink tea. Our power was off for a couple of hours but not particularly inconvenient as we cook with gas not electricity.

Saturday, November 23/2024

 Saturday is market day and unlike last week - also unlike the predictions for today - the weather is lovely. Low twenties and clear. 

Tulips, the cancer support stall, is featuring Christmas items - decorations, CDs, cards, fruitcake and such. Actually not really things we want, but it’s cheerful. Do buy a couple of samosas from a man recommended by Beverley who has been bringing curries to the market for the last couple of weeks. They’re small but very good, with a fair kick of heat. Also, from a different booth, a couple of Chelsea buns. After which I discover that my definition of Chelsea bun is inaccurate. Included nuts and way more dried fruit. Guess that is sometimes the case, but really if you want a sticky sweet extravaganza then make your own. Which I have no intention of doing - and would charge A LOT for - if J let them leave the house at all.

Friday, November 22/2024

 

One of our favourite things about Cyprus is the oranges. A winter crop just hitting its stride despite a too dry summer and autumn. And easy to take for granted here as I note there are none in the house and go outside to pick a couple for breakfast. As J says like being able to step outside the door in northern Ontario and spot a small Christmas tree. 

But orange trees are under threat and the threat is moving closer. A small insect known to transmit citrus greening disease (officially Huanglongbing) has been identified in the orchards of the Republic of Cyprus (South). The disease is deadly. It blocks nutrient flow through the citrus tree, eventually killing it. Florida has lost 90% of its orange production and the disease has already spread to Spain. If it develops in the South it will inevitably spread to the North of Cyprus. Pathogens are less respecters of borders than people are. Can only hope for concerted preventive action.

Thursday, November 21/2024

 

Interesting note in Cyprus Mirror regarding a recall of Chivas Regal whisky. Lot number included although of no particular interest to us as it’s not something we’ve bought in years. The reason given for the recall, though, seems both odd and disturbing. The batch was found to contain “alcohol not permitted for food use” and “ low alcohol content”. The story seems to come from Türkiye with a note saying that some of the affected whisky was imported to North Cyprus.

Can see no other references to this online, although one would suppose that a story like this about such a well known brand would have appeared all over the internet if only in the form of disclaimers by the company or assurances that other countries were not affected.

Does raise interesting speculation though. Not permitted for food use? Are we talking rubbing alcohol or merely ethanol stored in containers not guaranteed to be sterile. Other possibilities do occur. And low alcohol content. Thirty-eight percent? Ten percent? Will keep watch for follow up info.

 

Wednesday, November 20/2024

 Love watching the changing face of the sea. And, oddly, can’t really figure it out. Some aspects fairly clear like whitecaps and darkness on clouded and stormy days but others not so obvious. There are times when from our vantage point the sea looks almost white, as if it were covered with snow. Looking at it from the water’s edge there’s a partial explanation as white fluffy cumulus clouds are reflected in the water but that’s not the whole story. Nor is it obvious why it’s sometimes two-toned - blue on one side and green on the other. Occasionally but not all that often. And certainly the depth doesn’t change. (Well, not much. The Mediterranean is slightly tidal and Cypriot tides vary from .7 to 3.3 metres depending on the time of year). Googling much less enlightening than one might have supposed but not finished yet.

Horst gives us a lift to Sultan’s restaurant in Çatalköy where foreigners meet on a Wednesday. It’s less than fifteen miles to the east of us but would mean a change of dolmuş in Girne. Cheap enough but way more time consuming than one might have thought, even by car which takes (mostly) more efficient routes than the dolmuş can. 

Probably the most surprising change in North Cyprus in the nearly quarter century we’ve been coming here is the traffic. More surprising than the housing construction - though obviously not unrelated to it. Many more - and newer and more expensive - cars. And more and better motorways seemingly under permanent construction, aided by a climate where year round road works and construction are possible. It’s an island and cars aren’t cheap. They’re also sold in harder currency than the Turkish lira. So suspect that some of the increase must reflect more availability of credit. It certainly doesn’t reflect a stronger lira.

Tuesday, November 18/2024

 No hibiscus left and crepe myrtle less luxuriant than it was a month ago. On the other hand honeysuckle on the patio has started to bloom happily. And the jasmine that we pass on the way to the grocery store still has a lovely scent.

Note that it snowed in London today. Also in many other places of course but snow in London is pretty rare in November. Think the last time was 2010.

The grapes available at our local store seem to be coming to an end. Well, they are seasonal, but more than that this was apparently not a good year as higher than usual summer temperatures as well as drought led to a smaller harvest than normal. Cherry tomatoes very good though.

Monday, November 18/2024

 Well, sun out today, which allows a much better photograph of the bat on the wires. Seems pretty well glued on so expect it will be there for the forseeable future, disturbing as it is.

Finish reading aloud Diary of a Nobody. Very funny, and should anyone else wish to read it downloadable for free from Project Gutenberg, being long out of copyright (1892). Customs and mores of period interest but characters and humour timeless. Interestingly there is a sequel. Not by the original authors but more recently, by Keith Waterhouse of Billy Liar fame. Sadly not available as ebook, though did spot a second hand paperback for 60p (presumably delivery more than that). This not a country particularly well served by post though. 

Sunday, November 17/2024

 

Wake up to see what looks, at first like an old rag caught in the wires on the other side of the road. Not impossible, as it was a bit stormy in the night. On further consideration (was going to say closer inspection but actually can’t get any closer, hence the quality of the photograph) it looks more like a fairly large bat. Electrocuted as it touched two wires? Looks like it may be there for some time as it hasn’t attracted any bird of prey thus far.

Saturday, November 16/2024

 

Courtesy of Debbie Atahasan

Forecast was for alternate sun and showers and the showers started in the night. We can take partial credit as we left towels drying on the outside rack. No complaints, though, as the trees and shrubs definitely need the water after a completely rainless October. Also rain does wash away the bird droppings on the patio. Wouldn’t matter so much if it were wood or stone but the tiles are marble and acidic bird faeces tend to eat marble.

Showers are patchy as people online report whether it is currently raining at various spots along the coast that are not widely separated. Debbie Atahasan, somewhat to the east of us photographs a full rainbow. And, also on the weather front, a series of small earthquakes, mostly on the south coast of the island. No damage reported and only three of them felt by nearby residents.

We had intended to go to the local Saturday morning market but opt against. Nothing urgently needed and it’s about three quarters of a mile - enough to get thoroughly soaked on the way home.

Friday, November 15/2024

 Public holiday today. The last one of the year as Christmas isn’t a holiday here. It’s Republic Day, celebrating the 41st anniversary of the Declaration of Independence in 1983 of the Turkish Republic of North  Cyprus. Airshow slated above the harbour in Girne. It’s an annual event and apparently a good one but we don’t opt to go as our usual gathering at the Blue Song is more attractive. 

As with most public holidays, banks and government offices will be closed, supermarkets open. We’re basically village, and the sounds on a holiday morning are village sounds. Including the buzz of a power saw - shades of Sioux Lookout. And, from a little further away, a rooster greeting the day.

Had thought we might be able to see something of the air show from the Blue Song where we’re enjoying a draft beer outside at the starting time - half past three. But seems that fifteen kilometres is too far, though we did spot some of the planes arriving from Türkiye earlier.

And, appropriately, the last super moon of the year due tonight.

 

Thursday, November 14/2024

Antikythera red map pin, North Cyprus blue map pin

J reminds me of our first flirtation with the thought of Mediterranean living. Many years ago. Thirty? Bought a weekly Telegraph at the 7-11 in Dryden and spotted a seductive piece describing a Greek government scheme for allowing suitable applicants to live rent free on uninhabited islands. Preference given to those with plans for green agricultural projects. Sounded idyllic. Come up with an idea for growing multicoloured carrots or whatever, and arrive with a trunkload of books. Paradise.

Don’t remember giving thought to much else - although in all fairness we didn’t apply, didn’t even check the validity dates on our passports. Not disturbed by considerations like the quality of shelter. Build our own? Would there be trees? And food. Apart from the multicoloured carrots that is. Gardening pretty hard work if it’s providing your only source of sustenance. Would take quite a chunk of time away from that trunk of books. Had vague images of sitting in the sun reading and sipping wine. And most Greek islands run to a rough local wine. Not classic vintage but authentic - for what that’s worth. But wait. That would be INHABITED islands. Wine to be purchased from local villagers. This was to be - in fact the whole point was - an uninhabited island. Would there be wild grapes. Enough experience with wine making not to have high expectations. 

Had not at that point spent a winter in the Mediterranean. It is not all created equal. Roughly speaking, the farther east you go the warmer the average winter temperature. No matter how far east you go January is unlikely to be sleeping on the beach weather. Furthermore rainfall is unequally distributed. Cyprus and Crete are similar in size but in Crete the average high temperature in December is 18, in January 11. Rainfall in December is 197 mm, in January 160 mm. By comparison, Cyprus average highs are 18.9 in December and 17.1 in January. December rainfall averages 95 mm and January 80 mm. About twice as much winter rain in Crete.

Still theoretically possible to move to a Greek island without paying. Actually somewhat better terms than those on offer some thirty years ago, though much more prudent from the Greek government’s point of view. The island of Antikythera, south of mainland Greece and a little northwest of Crete, is in fact paying families to move there. New residents can be given a home, a piece of land, and €500 ($740.84 CAD, £415.57) a month for the first three years. Access to electricity, basic plumbing, limited water supply and even internet (not a factor to be considered thirty years ago - hence the trunk of books). They are, however, looking for families with three or more children and hoping to increase skilled labour in the population.

An attractive enough proposition in its own way. But happy to have chosen winters in North Cyprus.

Wednesday, November 13/2024

Courtesy of BBC

Türkiye’s President Erdoğan is quoted as saying that that Türkiye has ended diplomatic relations with Israel. More than one news source puts it that way. “Says Erdoğan” and “Erdoğan claims”. This looks slightly odd. Surely the more usual way to put it would be to simply state that Türkiye had broken off relations with Israel. The “says” and “claims” bits are normally reserved for unreliable sources of the “who wished to remain anonymous” sort. 

And indeed one is led to reflect on the number of ways in which Erdoğan is unreliable, although not particularly as a source. I consult J who is probably as cynical as I but better informed. “He hasn’t stopped sending them oil though, has he?” And indeed there is the story in France’s RFI: “Turkey Talks Tough on Israel but Resists Calls to Cut Off Oil”. The oil isn’t Turkish. It will be from Azerbaijan and Iraqi Kurdistan but via pipelines that terminate at the Turkish port of Ceyhan. From there it’s shipped down the coast past Syria and Lebanon to Israel.

Reading the news in the Middle East as tricky as reading it in Canada.

Tuesday, November 12/2024

 The harbour in Girne (Greek name Kyrenia) dates back to Venetian times and has always had a gentle period charm. We first stayed there in the winter of 2001, our first winter travelling. There were virtually no tourists there in January. We had taken the ferry from Türkiye and I sat with our bags in the square while J went and bargained for a room. No fast food places but we looked to see what was in the large metal basins in a café just off the square and pointed at what we wanted. All good peasant food and not a doner kebab in sight. 

Two years ago the powers that be began a huge renovation project with tourist appeal in mind. Some of the revamping was doubtless needed to upgrade electrical and water supplies and make the pavements safer, but maintaining authentic period shabbiness clearly not an aim. So now it is attractive enough if you have no nostalgic memories of its former self. Restaurant prices have escalated sharply, and some of its soul has gone.

Apparently there is also a new sign announcing the fait accompli:

Photo by Salih Günhan. Posted by Ralph Kratzer.

You can’t go home again.

Monday, November 11/2024

 

Courtesy of Cairo Scene

Day keeps promising - or threatening - but not delivering rain. But we cooked a chicken yesterday and have plenty of reading material, so rain or no rain really doesn’t matter.

Reading aloud two works of fiction. Midaq Alley, by Nobel Prize winner (1986) Naguib Mahfouz. Set in Cairo in the early forties, it’s a stunning combination of a period urban Egyptian setting and universal characters that we have all known in various guises. We had previously read his Cairo trilogy, which was excellent. But this is better.

Our other read aloud is even older. The Diary of a Nobody. Comic novel published in 1892 after having been serialised in Punch. And never out of print since. Though happily long out of copyright and therefore downloadable for free, as it’s really quite funny. As with Midaq Alley, the period detail is interesting while the characters are timeless.

Overcast - mostly

Midaq Alley Naguib Mahfouz Nobel prize literature 1988

Diary of a Nobody pre WW Ic

Sunday, November 10/2024

Alexander and Luba moved out early yesterday. Had intended to exchange email addresses but as usual procrastinated until too late. Hadn’t expected to carry on much in the way of correspondence but contact could have been useful as they seem mostly to be here in the part of the year when we’re not and vice versa. This morning the one cat that Alexander befriended and fed out of the many wanderers is on our patio looking in the window. Can I be your cat now? Looks pretty healthy and may in fact have a real home.

At 9:05 we are slightly startled by the sound of a steady siren but remember that it signals not an emergency but a tribute to the late Mustafa Kemal Atatürk who died at this time on November 10, 1938. He’s rightly honoured as the founder of the Turkish Republic, which he proclaimed in 1923 the year after abolishing the sultanate, as he presided over Türkiye’s rise from the ashes of the Ottoman Empire which had been defeated in WW I.

Atatürk created a secular state - an achievement which has wavered under Erdoğan. Possibly his biggest gift to Türkiye has remained though. Arabic script was replaced with Roman, so despite the idiosyncrasies of a non Indo-European language translation into European languages is not a horrifically daunting task.

Predicted rain comes in the afternoon, although not with the precision that the notoriously inaccurate Acuweather has announced. (As in rain will start in 32 minutes - a declaration that can be made when it’s already raining). Yes, there are other sources, but they’re often no more accurate.  Not that it matters enormously to the retired. And, happily, the rain washes the omnipresent bird droppings off the deck. 

Saturday, November 9/2024

 Saturday - market day as usual. Disappointing lack of produce this year. And no honey or nuts. But worth going anyway to see what is on offer. 

Dogs usually in evidence. May sometimes belong to one of the vendors or a shopper but suspect that, in the way of dogs, they are often just there for the event and the company, hanging out and happy to be included. And if excitement wanes a nap in the sun is always an option. 

Turkish Cypriot dogs are seldom tied up and seem to enjoy a pretty carefree life. Suspect most have families but roaming not considered a problem unless a dog is aggressive, which seems pretty rare. Much like the good-natured village dogs of my youth in the pre dog catcher days. Although one less pleasant result of this is excrement on the sidewalks. Dogs owned by ex-pats much more likely to be leashed and accompanied by someone who bags their deposits.

No major purchases but do come home with an unread Lecarré. 

Friday, November 8/2024

Walk down to the Blue Song for usual Friday afternoon gathering. Downhill in sunshine going. Uphill and just after sunset on the way back. Actually not technically after sunset, which is now 16:45, but living on the north slope of a mountain range means the sun disappears slightly before “sunset”. 

Pass the newly replaced transformer pole. The old one still lying by the side of the road. Must have been replaced just in time. Part of it looks like one huge splinter. 

Think our gathering is vaguely in the process of moving from summer to winter time but no need to hurry the process. Most of us are retired anyway. 

Criegan not here today. Down with some kind of bronchial infection, which Beverley refers to as “lurgy” illness. Interested, as always, in words, and pursue it later online. It is, as she said, frequently northern English. Sometimes Scots, as are many northern English terms. But popularised by the Goon Show as “the dreaded lurgy” - which makes its general use a little too late for my family to have used it.

Thursday, November 7/2024

Love the patio. View of the mountains to the south and the Mediterranean to the north . Flowering shrubs everywhere and the neighbour’s oleander and grapevine trellis overhanging slightly. 

The only downside is the birds. Well, not the birds themselves but their droppings. Not even sure which birds. Could be early in the morning before we’re up or during the night. Plenty of swifts about and they can eat, sleep and even mate on the wing. Presumably this could include other business at night. 

Be that as it may, every morning finds a trail of splotches across the tiles, dark as blood though brown not red. None of the innocent looking white deposits that we see more frequently at home, not that they’re any more welcome. 

Wednesday, November 6/2024

 

Wake up while it’s still yesterday in North America. This is not unusual as there’s an eight hour time difference between us and Central Standard time. Does mean that the polls are closed in all American time zones and preliminary results are coming in, although not initially predictions on the swing states. About the only joy is in the fact that we are not pollsters, all of whom seem to have blown it majorly. 

About as far out, though a shade less embarrassingly, as the 1948 polling prediction that Thomas Dewey would beat Harry Truman. Thomas who? Indeed. But before the vote was counted the Chicago Daily Tribune had already gone to press and the morning headline read DEWEY DEFEATS TRUMAN. And no, I don’t remember that election. But do know part, at least, of the reason that the pollsters got it wrong. They relied heavily on telephone surveys at a time when owning a telephone was far from universal and the results were skewed in favour of those with higher incomes.

So now begin the post mortems on this election.

Tuesday, November 5/2024

 One good thing about North Cyprus - and many other places - is that it’s easy to buy things in small units. For example one half litre bottle of beer. Though have to admit that this is true of European and British beer at home as well. Just not in (though sometimes right beside) grocery stores. And yes, am forgetting Quebec where beer and wine are also regarded as accompaniments for a meal *rather than intoxicants and are sold in grocery stores. Here beer bottles have caps that can be removed with a handy pull tab. Rare to need a can opener for tinned vegetables either as most have pull tabs. 

And here fruit and veg are never wrapped in plastic, always simply sold by weight. Not more expensive per kilo to buy two carrots if that’s what you want. Do know of one supermarket that actually has a milk dispenser outside so you could bring your own container. It’s not very close to us though, and we don’t really use a lot of milk except when making Irish soda bread.

This is Election Day in the US, and one the rest of the world is watching with more interest than usual. Seems slightly weird then to wake up and realise that it’s still yesterday in most of America. Polls not open. Final results not likely to be in until tomorrow morning in our time zone. There will be exit polls, though, with a couple of caveats. The first results will not be released until 5 pm Eastern Time - that’s midnight here - and exit polls results that will indicate a state’s winner are not released until all polling centres have closed in that state. Memories of the days in Canada when results from provinces to the east were not released until the polls had closed in the province of the watcher. Until modern telecommunications made nonsense of the restrictions.

Monday, November 4/2024

 The people across the road with the orchard were harvesting olives on the weekend with a tarp spread under the tree to collect them. J also spotted the old man (well, probably not any older than we are) picking figs from his tree. The same tree that has branches hanging over the fence on the roadside that allowed us to sample the fruit last year. That was early December though and the figs were much bigger than they are now. Wouldn’t have known whether these are immature or just the tiny victims of the summer drought but they’re no bigger than grapes. But no doubt the owner knows what he’s doing.

Have decided that the yoghurt we have been eating was probably from cow’s milk rather than sheep as we had assumed and wanted. Had thought that köy meant sheep but turns out that it means village. Sheep is köyun. So unspecified village yoghurt almost certainly from cow’s milk. Now in possession of a container not only labelled köyun but adorned with a reassuring picture of a sheep. Turkish is a difficult language but as with Polish most of the words I’ve learned first are for foods.

Köy  köyun

Sunday, November 3/2024

Courtesy of World Storm

Huge hail in South Cyprus last night.

Well, it is precipitation.

A not entirely enviable record was set in Cyprus this October. For the first time in sixty years there was no rain recorded on the island for the entire month. And of course this followed an extremely hot and dry summer.

.Well before this autumn there were warnings that a “toxic combination” of decreasing rainfall, abandonment of rural areas, and increased water consumption has put over half the island at immediate risk of desertification. In fact everywhere except the ridge of the Troodos Mountains (not “ our “ mountain range) is at risk.

Increasingly people want to live in urban areas where the jobs and services are and modern living styles use much more water than was the case when it was carried by the bucketful. Cypriots are usually pretty careful about water consumption, but undoubtedly use more than their grandparents did just as most cool their homes more than previous generations. And tourism is encouraged for the economy but is obviously harder on the environment than the old agricultural base was.

We did have thunder storms and a patio cleaning rain last night but no hail north of the mountains.

Inaccuweather 

Saturday, November 2/2024

 Saturday is Lambousa market day. Overcast but still mid twenties. Really miss the fresh produce and nuts and honey. Not sure if they’ll ever return. We’ll probably take a look at the Girne market some Wednesday, although it’s not walking distance like “our” market. It is much bigger, though, and when we were in Famagusta during the pandemic the weekly city market was the source of most of our fruit and vegetables once it was allowed to reopen.

The most interesting stalls here are the charity ones. We do buy five CD’s at the cancer patients’ support. Ten lira each (£0.23, $0.41 CAD). Also a blue mug. Browse but don’t actually buy at the extensive book stall in support of animal rescue. Still have a number of unread or unfinished books, both “real” and digital. Do have memories of the first years we travelled, though, when we tended to buy anything we saw in English, resulting in a few quite unexpected winners. In those days the few books we brought from home had to meet strict criteria - appeal to both of us, ok to trade as we went, and not hardcover (too heavy).

Friday, November 1/2024

Stolen fruit tastes sweeter? The oranges from the tree on our patio are inedible. Tiny and rock hard. Clearly the victims of a summer of extreme heat and drought. But the tree next door has some fruit that is bigger and juicier. Possibly thanks to watering or luck in acquiring more shade. Can see no moral objection to sampling as a) several oranges are on branches hanging down on our side of the wall; b) these oranges are totally inaccessible except from our patio which can only be reached by coming through our flat; and c) no one seems to be currently in residence next door, though they could simply be away for a couple of weeks. C does sound a bit dubious. It’s hard to argue that there’s no moral objection to taking someone’s property if they won’t see you do it. A and B much better. A may even have legal force in some jurisdictions (though not necessarily this one). And B means the oranges are totally inaccessible - and in fact can’t even be seen by the owners of the tree. They don’t know the oranges exist and couldn’t pick them if they did.

Gratifyingly sweet and juicy, though quite a few seeds for our sins.

Thursday, October 31/2024

Day begins in the usual leisurely fashion. Drinking coffee, catching up on the news online. When we notice that neither of us has an internet connection. Try another device with the same result. Then J flicks a light switch. No electricity. Planned cut or accident? Just our street or area wide? Now that we have no internet there’s no way to find out. North Cyprus is famous - or infamous - for power cuts, though last winter we experienced only one and it was just twenty minutes.

Bit longer this time - about five and a half hours. Not particularly inconvenient as it’s sunny and warm, we’re pretty well supplied with “real” books, and the stove is gas not electric. No idea whether shops in the area still function when their electric tills don’t but no particular need to buy anything today anyway. Quite amazing the number of things we rely on the internet for, though: news, weather updates, translations, purchases, library books. It goes on. And the first winter of retirement we considered ourselves lucky to be travelling in the age of internet cafés! Remember trying to touch type on a Turkish keyboard, sharing the café with a bunch of loud teenage boys addicted to video games.

And when we have internet access again we can see that it was in fact a planned interruption for maintenance and repairs. Not assiduous enough readers of social media to have noticed in advance.

Wednesday, October 30/2024

Temperatures running in the mid-twenties or slightly higher. And sunny every day. Perfection. Although there may be a downside. Friends say that last summer was the hottest, driest summer they can remember and the evidence is still here. The orange tree on the edge of the patio had edible oranges at the end of November last year. This year we’re here a month earlier and might have expected them to be underripe. In fact they’re tiny and rock hard. Not green, but almost inedible. The leaves tell the story - curled and slightly yellowing. Water will have been in short supply and people talk of finding it difficult to keep trees and plants alive even when they had water. The fig tree at the edge of the orchard opposite us has quite a few figs on it but they’re tiny and also surrounded by wrinkled leaves. Said hello to the orchard owner today as he was harvesting some olives but don’t have enough language in common for further discussion.

Tuesday, October 29/2024

 Seems government offices, banks and schools are closed for the holiday. Shops are open, with the odd exception of chemists. Though admittedly on Sundays when the supermarkets are all functioning only the duty chemist in each area remains open.

No need for a pharmacy but pop down to our little local supermarket. No warm sourdough bread straight out of the oven but we do find an enormous dark green bunch of celery for 49 lira (€1.30, £1.08, $1.96 CAD). No easy way to predict prices. Celery is local but so are potatoes which cost more than they would at home, although they are much nicer. Imports tend to be fairly pricey but Italian wine more than reasonable, which is probably a question of tax.

Delighted to see the man who owns the orchard immediately opposite us back again. For the first few days we neither saw our neighbour nor heard his goat. Had assumed the goat had met the fate for which it was being bred. But then we began to hear it bleating. Encouraging but still no sign of the owner, who was previously in the habit of spending several hours a day tending his grounds. Had begun to wonder if he were ill or  even had died. He’s not young. And, had he died, there was the additional unhappy possibility that his heirs, not equally addicted to gardening, might sell the property to developers happy to erect high rise apartments. So for selfish as well as benign reasons we’re pleased to see him back at his labours.

Closed govt schools banks chemists

Orchard goat

Monday, October 28/2024

Courtesy of famous hotels.org

Discover relatively late in the day that tomorrow is a holiday, one borrowed from Türkiye. It’s the hundred and first anniversary of the founding of the Republic of Türkiye by Kemal Atatürk after the Turkish War of Independence following the defeat of the Ottoman Empire in the First World War. A reminder for us of the time many years ago when we stayed at the Baron Hotel in Aleppo, Syria. Down on its luck but rich in memories of previous guests, including Atatürk, who is said to have mounted guns on the roof during WWI to ward off attacks by the British or Arab Legions. Many other notables as well, such as Lawrence of Arabia and Yuri Gagarin. King Faisal announced Syria’s independence from the balcony of room 215. The whole political spectrum represented, including Kim Philby. And we ourselves stayed in room 203 where Agatha Christie wrote the first part of Murder on the Orient Express.

Sunday, October 27/2024

Beginning of winter time. Can’t see much hope for world peace if the countries (or parts of same, remembering Saskatchewan) can’t agree on a date for beginning and ending daylight saving time. Should be pleased not to have the problem of the Chinese, with the whole country on Beijing time. Though in fairness ninety percent of the population lives along the east coast. Türkiye is also one time zone, though it’s a smaller country than China, and does not switch to summer time.

This had left North Cyprus with a problem when Türkiye decided to scrap the daylight saving time shift in 2016. Initially the TRNC went with Turkish time year round. However that meant that it was out of sync with the Republic of Cyprus in the South and also meant that a high proportion of the population was unhappy with the arrangement. So in 2017 TRNC went back to Eastern European time, known as UTC +2, in sync with the South - and actually Lebanon, Israel and Gaza. While Istanbul, an hour’s flight to the west of us (well, to be accurate it’s more north than west) is on UTC +3. In other words if it’s 9 pm here it’s 10 pm in Istanbul. A question of politics as well as longitude.

And if air schedules are confusing now, it’s nothing to the difficulties encountered by railways in the days before time zones. Time zones were only agreed upon in 1884, thanks largely to a proposal of Canadian Sir Sanford Fleming. Before that communities established their own times. So despite the anomalies things are simpler. 

And daylight saving time? Canada trialled DST in 1908, making Thunder Bay (then still Port Arthur and Fort William)  the first documented case of Daylight Saving Time in the world.

A little unsettling to find the sun gone by four pm today, but that is in large part the result of living on the north side of a mountain range. The official sunset time for Lapta was 16:57.

Saturday, October 26/2024

Infrastructure splintering not crumbling 

Saturday is local market day. It’s a nice walk, a little under a mile. There are some reliable standards there, like the large and well organised book stall in support of the Kyrenia Animal Rescue charity and the Tulips stall selling miscellaneous items in support of cancer patients. Most vendors are there on their own behalf though,, some every week and others more irregularly. This week there is no produce for sale and no sign that there was any before we arrived. Handmade jewellery and cards, clothing both new and second hand, a couple of bottles of what looks like pomegranate juice, cushions and kilims. (OK, small Turkish carpets. Have just had a tussle with predictive text which was sure I was aiming for Kilimanjaro). 

Ask a regular who is selling dresses and shawls, and from whom I buy a half dozen eggs laid by her own hens, what has happened to the produce sellers. Beginning to fear that drought had wiped them out. She says that she thinks they found the increased price for a stall made if not worth their while. Too bad. Even after the nut seller stopped coming we used to buy honey and eggs regularly and also strawberries in season.

On the way home pass two wooden poles holding up a substantial looking transformer. Well, one pole seems to be carrying more than its share of the burden. Many countries complaining about deteriorating infrastructure but this the most graphic example we’ve seen. Expecting the lot to fall down and wondering if anyone has started a pool on when.

But positive developments re utility supply on the home front. When we get back we are greeted by the plumber of yesterday’s successes who is beaming as he leads us to the shiny yellow pump he has just installed. Italian he tells us proudly. And it is certainly performing as it should. The plumber comes up to inspect. First the kitchen water pressure on hot and cold and then the bathroom. ‘Duş’ he inquires, and we have learned a new Turkish word borrowed from the French. The word for shower pronounced exactly like the French word douche.