Sunday, November 19/2023

Next door for our weekly purchase of the Cyprus Mail, with all its deficiencies. And catch the very tail end of the Larnaca Marathon coming along Makarios. Over 11,000 entrants from 85 countries and a good day for running as the unseasonably hot weather seems to be over and back to highs of 23 or 24.

Meanwhile President Christodoulides has announced piously that he is « steadfastly increasing efforts to resume negotiations on the Cyprus [reunification] issue. The difficulty being that he was speaking at a memorial service for EOKA fighter Kyriakos Matsis, who died in 1958 while resisting arrest by security forces. To quote from my blog entry of March 2, also concerning then newly elected President Christodoulides:

EOKA was a terrorist organisation active from the fifties to the seventies whose aim was political union with Greece, pitting it against the British, Turkish Cypriots, and many fellow Greek Cypriots. While many independence movements have involved violence, EOKA was not an independence movement and did mean death for Turkish Cypriots. Independence was granted by the British in 1960, and the government of the Republic later outlawed the organisation, which had been responsible for civilian deaths and involved with the assassination of the American ambassador.

Difficult to reconcile glorification of EOKA with sincere attempts to reunite Cyprus.

Saturday, November 18/2023

Cyprus president Christodoulides has denied allegations that the US is using the British bases on Cyprus to send arms: “There is no such information. Our country cannot be used as a launching pad for military operations. Through our actions we demonstrate the humanitarian nature of our approach “.The sources of the allegations are the Israeli newspaper Haaretz and the British media outlet Declassified. Obviously the details will be left to the historians, but regrettably both are more reliable sources than Christodoulides, though in fairness few politicians can be relied on for factual accuracy. And, as always, truth is the first casualty of war.

What passes here for a cool breeze picks up in the late afternoon and is accompanied by rain. The meteorological service issues a yellow warning, probably not so much for rain (to which the inevitable response is that we needed it) as for what may be coastal gale force winds. However the patio doors provide a comfortable view of the lightning which can’t be very close, given the time delay before we hear the thunder. Ten pm and temperature 21.

Friday, November 17/2023

Hooded Crow- courtesy of Wikipedia

 Miss the crow family. There are crows here, though not the same. Hooded crows are similar in size and behaviour to American crows but not in appearance. We do see them, sometimes in the palm tree beside the balcony where they - and smaller birds - poke their beaks between the fibres on the trunk (well, technically stem) either hiding food or looking for insects. Did try leaving a couple of peanuts on the balcony railing. They  did  disappear eventually but suspect the wind blew them off. Do also feel guilty when the last uneaten bite goes in the bin as well. With the crow family we’d achieved practically zero waste.

Thursday, November 16/2023

From our balcony. 17:05. Sunset at 16:49. Temperature 23. Gin and tonic time.

Eight Cypriots, four representing political parties in the Republic of Cyprus (South) and four representing parties in the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, TRNC (North) visited Northern Ireland this month in order to examine the history and philosophy of the peace process and check Good Friday Agreement.  An interesting step, as the Good Friday Agreement has been in effect for over twenty-five years now and ended violence that many thought could never end. There are young adults in Northern Ireland who have known peace their entire lives. Of course circumstances are different, as they are different in Israel and Palestine, for whom Northern Ireland has also been suggested as a model. Still, there could be lessons learned and inspiration in a country where conflict once seemed endless.

Wednesday, November 15/2023

 

 

The Middle East is a complicated area, with a history that goes back for milennia and disputes that long predate the Balfour Declaration. In recent years the US has taken a hyperactive interest that far exceeds its desire to prevent conflict and see justice done. As the Carnegie Endowment for International Peace puts it “During the Cold War America’s quest to dominate the Middle East was driven largely by the need to ensure the uninterrupted flow of its energy resources to America and its allies”. Photo courtesy of Petroleum Economist.

Cyprus, Egypt, Israel and - yes - Gaza have massive undersea gas resources and plenty of dispute over boundaries and methods of access and export.

Tuesday, November 14/2023

 Happy to share this blog with anyone who finds it of interest. But it grew out of the notebooks I started keeping when our winter travels began after we retired in 2000. It was some time before I began putting them online and this is actually the second host site. At first they existed as both handwritten notebooks and blog posts and then a few years ago the handwritten versions ceased, in part because they didn’t include photos but largely because having them meant writing the initial entries and then transcribing them. That made sense when we had only intermittent access to computers and the internet but not once we travelled with tablets and wifi was everywhere.

Still, their chief value is for us as a reminder of the places we’ve been and the people we’ve shared our life with. The blog is searchable which is handy if we want to know what year we went to Romania or how much we paid for wine twenty years ago. And we trip over funny or quirky memories in the search. Like this fragment from Larnaca in 2013:

Walking down to meet J for coffee when a car pulls over to the curb. Do I speak English, asks the nondescript man inside. Yes, I say, assuming he is looking for directions. Slowly he introduces himself. I - hairdresser - cut - set. No thank you, I say, before the painful process can be drawn out longer. But no hairdresser looks for business by curb crawling. In fact, he reminds me of a man that I once saw exposing himself in the walkway under the road by Finchley Road tube station, so under-equipped for the display that it wasn't at first obvious what he was doing. I feel I should have given today's man pointers. Try it on with someone much younger - and maybe go with I photographer - studio - model.

Monday, November 13/2023

 The late Canadian writer Norman Levine came and spoke to - I believe - the Humanities Association in Fredericton some time in the sixties. He would have been in his forties then and talked about the years after he moved to the artists’ community in St Ives, Cornwall in 1950. He was at pains to tell us that those had been the glory years and that St Ives in the mid-sixties was not the same at all. The experience he had had could no longer be shared. One young woman, caught up in the spirit of his reminiscences wanted to know where now was like St Ives had been fifteen years earlier. Nowhere, said Levine. There’s nowhere like that now. 

And it seems that now there’s nowhere quite like the Mediterranean cities we first stayed in nearly twenty-five years ago. The old city centres, a bit shabby but real. Not assembly line high rises or international chain restaurants. Places where old men read newspapers and drank coffee and played a little backgammon. Where women remembered how you liked your Cypriot coffee and started it when they saw you’d arrived.

So down to the waterfront today for a cup of coffee. They’re heavily into upgrading and repairs but Mcdonald’s used to be a good spot amidst the touristy places to get a pretty decent cup of filter coffee with the advantage of being able to take it across to a bench by the beach. Well, the filter coffee is no more, replaced by Americano which isn’t the same thing by a sexier name and isn’t as nice. It’s also €2.40 (£2.09, $3.55 CAD). Just about twice the price of a small coffee at McD’s in Canada where it would have been premium roast filtered and not Americano. Other coffee shops in the area also seem to have adopted the Americano, along with lattes and cappuccinos. And looks like €2.50 is standard for the Americano, though most of them do make Cyprus (read Greek or Turkish) coffee. Have my suspicions re the cappuccinos. When Dorothy visited us here some fifteen years ago she quickly learned to ask restaurants whether they had a cappuccino maker. Inevitably the answer was oh no - we have little packets. 

But farther back from the waterfront is inevitably more local and more real. More cats, more tiny shops, more cafés that are only a couple of tables. Still looking for the backgammon players. We do pass an old man on his balcony, a former councillor that we chatted with years ago. Astonishingly he remembers us. So we chat for a couple of minutes. His English is quite good. His hearing not so much. But smiles all round at having met up again. Then past what used to be an independent Italian restaurant. Now a Wagamama. Well, why not - they’re popular. Do we expect to eat only English food in England?

And then our bakery.The koulouri (sesame studded bread rings) are now in plastic bags, which will, unfortunately, ruin them. But it’s already too late in the day. They’re perfect hot out of the oven. Afternoon is too late. They do have our favourite loaves of rye and whole wheat bread though. Dense and sesame studded as well. And available nowhere else that we’ve discovered. Found the bakery by chance one Christmas Day - for who would want to eat day old bread at Christmas - and have been coming back ever since. Enormous loaf slightly less than the cup of Americano. Some things haven’t changed.

Sunday, November 12/2023

 Not a Luddite, but tolerance for the digital world rapidly decreasing. Attempt to log in to a Gmail account I’ve had for years but don’t use frequently. Know the account name AND the password. Gmail unprepared to give me access without sending a text - to a mobile number I can’t access here. They do get that people may have lost/changed phones but point out that it would have been prudent (no, they don’t use the word) to have listed secondary email addresses for emergency access. Not a requirement at the time the account was opened. Basically no alternatives, tough luck.

Dust in the air causing lower air quality due to particulate matter. Much as smoke from forest fires did where we spend the other half of the year, although the presumed culprit this time is the Sahara. Can’t fight Nature - and it’s not really unpleasant.

Cook the gigantes beans that we soaked yesterday. Have never been particularly tempted despite seeing them regularly at the greengrocer’s as they just look like enormous lima beans. But nicer taste and creamier consistency. In tomato and pepper sauce. A keeper.

Saturday, November 11/2023

 Once upon a time, but within living memory (ours) telephones were wired in and PCs non-existent. Hell, we even remember party lines. Hear the fire engines and pick up the phone to listen in and find out where the fire is  (spoiler - the usual suspects having a chimney fire. Again). And eons later we considered ourselves lucky to have begun our retirement travels in the days of internet cafés. Slow connections, grubby keyboards, queues of students. Much better now, but probably more frustrating.

So we possessed - well still possess, and that is the problem - a bank account with HSBC Canada. It’s outlived its usefulness and we have attempted more than once to close it, though not forcefully enough. You can’t close a dormant account; you have to reactivate it first. The process isn’t quick. And somehow by the time it has been achieved the will to live, or at least to continue dealing with banks, has been sapped. So last attempt made shortly before we left home. Ended with their saying that closing the account could only be done at a branch office. Quite unmoved by my explaining that the nearest branch is in Winnipeg, 240 miles away.

Fortunately for us - HSBC indifferent - we were about to go to Winnipeg en route to Europe. So bus downtown on a lovely golden day to talk to a couple of helpful young employees who succeed after viewing our passports and credit cards and collecting our signatures in reviving our account. This doesn’t contain our life savings - only slightly too much to write off cheerfully. Though we’ve been tempted. However, for reasons known only to the gods of banking, it is not possible to revive AND close an account on the same day. And the next day we’re off to Europe. No problem, we think. Have an online only bank account that lists HSBC as an external account. Can simply move everything out. After tomorrow. All permissions for closure signed in advance.

Fast forward slightly to Cyprus. Oh right, we have money to move. Load app. However external account has disappeared from friendly online only bank. Presumably buried some time after HSBC declared it dead. Fair enough. So revive it - or more accurately enter it as a new external account. Enter HSBC account number. Number no problem but transit and institution numbers require help from Mr Google. Advice to copy them from the front of a cheque not helpful as we have somehow neglected to bring a cheque book for an account we are closing. But Google useful as always. Enter info on online bank app and am told that there will be two small deposits made into HSBC account. Report the amounts and all will be fine. 

Except it won’t. HSBC has no intention of telling me what’s going on in our account. We might be thugs holding the Jaworskis hostage in the hopes of emptying this small account illegally. The only hope is to open access to online banking which involves eliciting assistance from the people who told us to drive to Winnipeg to close the account. But, needs must. Put a Canadian VPN on the mobile and use a VOIP to call HSBC.  

And hit it fairly lucky. A representative who pretty well gets what has happened and has endless patience. First confirm identity. Includes providing passport number but stops short of fingerprints and dental records - though maybe those are only for identifying corpses. So begin process at website on ipad mini 2, reserving phone for conversation. Then the email with the code bit. Fingers well crossed as wifi not as swift here as it may be in Toronto or - more likely - Vancouver. Open email on second ipad so no need to risk leaving the VOIP and newfound friend at HSBC or the registration process. No bank ever gives you the same customer advisor twice. Code comes through barely within the requisite two minutes. Slow process but progressing. Ipad mini 2 receives second code - just read me the numbers on line 16. Then ipad 1 stalls and the dread buffer till you die circling begins. I express limited optimism. Can you download the HSBC app? Ipad mini 3 called into service. App loads although not quickly. Wifi capacity not necessarily helped by my current use of four devices. App accepts newly minted user name and password but does not wish to complete entry without further security. Resort to website. Website suggests three methods of increasing security or - on your head be it - none.  Representative dubious about none. I swear that all I need to do is LOOK at the account. It will then be closed. Rep agrees. Thanks me for patience. It’s mutual. Didn’t think to check watch when we began but half an hour would be extremely conservative estimate. 

Save dealing with other online bank for tomorrow. And memo to self - keep devices charged and at the ready.

Friday, November 10/2023

 One of the things that struck us this year and last in (the republic of) Cyprus is the large number of black people. The visual perception may be somewhat distorted because Cypriots are not walkers by choice, so those you pass on the street are probably disproportionately expats, students, and asylum seekers. It’s easier  to notice people of colour when they walk past than it would be if they were driving by. But many more dark faces. The majority apparently male and many, but by no means all, of them young enough to be students. And not unusual to see black women alone or with small children. The women often very well dressed. 

Cyprus received 458 Syrian refugees from Lebanon during the last week in October as well as quite a few refugees from Israel following October 7. But its location in proximity to Africa and the Middle East combined with its status as an EU country has made it an attractive destination for many asylum seekers. 

Perhaps more attractive than it should have been. Asylum seekers now make up six percent of the population, an EU record. Compare, for example, with the United Kingdom where last year there were around 13 asylum applications for every 10,000 people living in the UK. Cyprus is rather insular (well, that’s where the word comes from - insula, Latin for island). Minorities not always welcomed with open arms and, in fact there have been problems, including a fight earlier this week between Nigerian and Syrian migrants at a reception centre near Nicosia. Clashes between Greek Cypriots and migrants have also occurred. It’s surprising that there hasn’t been more trouble. Cypriot bureaucracy is abysmal at the best of times and is hopelessly behind in processing asylum applications.

Thursday, November 9/2023

 

On Monday BMO had said that my replacement credit card would arrive in three to five business days. Suspected them of simply having no idea where Cyprus was. In fact quite sure the last young man assisting had no clue, but eventually we developed a rapport and his confidence grew as he adjusted to the idea that this was a foreign country and addresses sounded different. Did accurately read back the info and said that with overseas countries the practice was to use courier service and not mail.  But still  very impressed when tracking number shows card out for delivery - physically at present in Aradippou, a Larnaca suburb. And indeed at one o’clock Rita calls from reception to say it has arrived.  Very large thick envelope saying, discreetly, replacement document. Seventy-two hours door to door.

Needs to be used in order to be activated.  Happily, it’s a little cooler this afternoon - about 27 degrees - so we walk down to Lidl. Their produce seldom as good or as cheap as the Cypriot grocery stores. Gin a different matter. Seven hundred  cc bottle of house brand, Castelgy  for €6.69 (£5.83, $9.85 CAD). Had seen it at Lidl years ago and assumed on the basis of price that it must be dreadful. Happily, not the case. New credit card put to work.

Wednesday, November 8/2023

 

The best gin here used to be at Lidl. Their own blind test prize winner at impressively low price. May still be but we haven’t been because Lidl is the opposite direction from everything else we want to do and it’s been too hot for midday walks for pleasure. Have found that the Elephant store has nice German beer for a euro a (500 ml) tin, though. And 500 ml tins are big enough to split. Actually there is drinkable Cypriot beer as well. Breweries getting sneaky though. Spot a tin labelled Krauzer Bräu. Sounds German enough. Small print on side of tin extremely small. Well, it has been getting smaller every year, possibly even for young people, but in the EU there’s a particular problem. Like Canada, but more so, unilingual labelling is rare. (Although not all that rare in Cyprus so maybe it depends on whether a product is for domestic consumption or export. So squinting at labels I’m hoping first for English. Failing that French, Polish, German, Spanish - pretty well in that order. Greek would be last because of the letters, and it does come after Russian, but Arabic is dead last - at least among the labels we encounter here. So squinting reveals that Krauzer Bräu is brewed in the EU. Hmm, sounds like deliberate obfuscation. The German beers we’ve been drinking have been proud to announce they were brewed in Germany. Resort to Google, and sure enough discover that Krauzer Bräu is brewed in Cyprus.

And then there’s water, which is actually what we drink the most of. Took us years, literally, to establish that tap water in the Republic of Cyprus is potable. It tastes like chlorine. That’s obvious and unpleasant, but not an answer to whether one can drink it. The answer was always that everyone here buys water. And initially we did, though not happily. It comes in endless plastic bottles and they’re heavy to carry home if you buy in any quantity as well as being environmentally unfriendly. Then we talked to John - then working at one of the charity shops.  He explained that the nasty chlorine taste dissipated, along with the chlorine itself, if you let the water sit in the sun for a day. We had two large jars and began to produce water that you not only could drink but would want to. Have learned a little more since. Sitting for 48 hours better than a day. Sunlight not necessary but does speed things up a bit. Boiling for fifteen minutes can substitute for sitting for a day. No longer have the jars but do have a very large pot and can then decant into empty wine bottles and refrigerate. The water was always disinfected - that was the problem - but now it tastes good.

Tuesday, November 7/2023

Citrus fruits just coming into season. Tried a clementine that was ripe enough to eat, although only just. A regular orange was coming into its sweetness but still really too fibrous. Won’t be long though. Was trying to remember the surprising relationship of citrus species. Obviously many detailed sources but noted this in the blog January 22/2019: 

Citrus fruit development a complicated history. Had assumed that pomelos were an offshoot of grapefruit, but quite the opposite. The (slightly simplified) version is that all citrus varieties are descended from pomelos, citrons and mandarins. The more familiar oranges, lemons, limes and grapefruit come later. 

Conference pears now at their prime. Sweeter, more tender - and down to €1.90 (£1.65, $2.80 CAD) a kilo. Tomatoes surprisingly expensive, or the best ones are. Bins at various prices roughly matching quality. You just tell the lady at the till which ones you have. Qualitative difference between best and worst pretty obvious - not so much the categories in between. Hard to resist the habit of buying in quantity when produce is attractive or very inexpensive, but there will be more and fresher tomorrow and we don’t have a lot of storage space.

Slightly unclassic carbonara for dinner. Lountza (Cypriot smoked pork tenderloin) rather than prosciutto and a little sautéed pepper, onion and mushroom added. Lovely dark yolked eggs. Ingredients here such a pleasure. 

Monday, November 6/2023

 Day starts with an email from the bank saying that my credit card has been restricted and asking me to phone. Am mildly annoyed that they haven’t texted, suspecting that they have failed to record my winter mobile number or have been unable to cope with the U.K. prefix. Possible advantage to eight hour time difference is that there seems to be no wait time at all in getting to speak to a human. Practically at the end of the conversation, which seems to consist mainly of their verifying who I am, the question of the suspect transaction comes up. Yes, I recognise the U.K. company and no I am not responsible for this transaction though an earlier one was legitimate. Have to admit that this does rather undermine my claim that their obsessive surveillance makes it difficult to use the card abroad. So card cancelled and new one will be sent. Eventually - talking to a third employee - am able to establish that card will be couriered rather than mailed, which makes its arrival in the next week or so possible if not actually probable. Three to five business days?  Strong suspicion that am being reassured by someone who has no idea where Cyprus is, but at least the intentions are good. Fortunately debit card unaffected as is J’s credit card, of course. Inconvenient, but scarcely an emergency.

So to second complication of the day. Last week cockroach appeared in kitchen. Seemed to have no companions but this is not necessarily to be relied on - as with mice. Not unduly disturbed. Cyprus is subtropical and residents do seasonal battle with the katsarida. We’ve stayed at this hotel before without encountering any. Trapped offending insect (on its back and hopefully experiencing death spasms) underneath upturned waste paper basket and reported its presence to management the following morning. Gone when we returned home. Last night, in dimly lit kitchen, an apparent companion spotted on the kitchen floor. Did go closer to investigate but it began to move and, in order to foil escape attempts, repeated the waste paper basket manoeuvre.

So report last night’s captive to front desk as before. Soon followed by knock on door. Enter the cleaners, stage right. Maria bearing large and presumably lethal cannister. Venera accompanying her to assist or perhaps just for the entertainment. And entertainment there is, as Maria removes the basket, missing only a drum roll, to reveal - a large tangle of heavy black thread, no longer moving in the breeze. No doubt cleaners now have a story with which to regale friends for years!

Quick trip out to Prinos for fruit and veg. Offerings not entirely vegetarian. As well as meat in the usual small butcher’s area there are three net bags of snails next to the veg. In Paphos we used to see snails climbing happily over lettuce bits but these are tightly bagged. 

Seem reasonably expensive at four euros ninety-nine a kilo as you often see people gathering them on the hillsides where they’re free for the taking, but then the same could be said of wild blueberries. 

Home to make an aubergine curry to have with bulgur. 

Sunday, November 5/2023

 Sunday is newspaper day. Access to lots of newspapers on line, which was not always the case. But the Republic of Cyprus has a daily newspaper in English as well as those in Greek. It’s not a particularly good paper, and overpriced at €1.95 for 32 pages but does give a Cypriot slant on life - and on Sundays three puzzles instead of one. Happily J doesn’t wish to do one, so we’re spared the need to buy two copies of the Cyprus Mail as Sam and Andy used to do daily in order to do the puzzle competitively.

Unsurprisingly, island affairs take priority, and a story about a woman wanted for stealing money from donation boxes in bakeries in Paphos makes page three. There’s often a rather negative preoccupation with the affairs of the TRNC, Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus. So the headline today is Stark Increase in North’s Population. Stark? Page 10 before the conflict in not so distant Israel and Palestine makes an appearance as there’s no specifically Cypriot angle. Though to be fair similar priorities prevail in more impressive newspapers in bigger and more sophisticated countries.

Saturday, November 4/2023

There are more detailed maps available, of course, but this one does show how Cyprus is nestled in a very ancient corner of the world. On a clear day you can see Turkey from the north shore. Latakia, Syria is 110 kilometres from the eastern tip of the Karpaz peninsula. Long distance swim records involve greater distances. A flight to Beirut takes an hour but it’s all ascent and descent. 

So Cyprus is a small country but it’s never been an insignificant one. Known as an unsinkable aircraft carrier, it functions as a launching point for planes heading to conflicts throughout the Middle East, as well as a useful spot for R and R between missions, as when Britain gave Cyprus its independence in 1960, the agreement was that she would retain two sovereign bases on the island, amounting to about three. percent of the land.  Britain had in earlier times needed the island as a base to guard the land route through the Middle East to India. The sovereign military bases now include an intelligence gathering station at Agios Nikolaos as well as one in the Troodos mountains - revealed by Edward Snowden as a facility used by both the UK and the US for spying on the Middle East. Currently the word is that this base has been monitoring communications from the resistance in Palestine and supplying it in real time to the Israeli military.

Friday, November 3/2023

Always slightly surprised by the warmth in the evenings. Sunset today is at 16:49. In Sioux Lookout it’s 17:41, nearly an hour later. And, for what it’s worth, 16:30 in London, which is actually a fair bit north of Sioux. The surprising part is that this time of year has early sunsets but warm weather. As darkness falls it’s still early, possibly before dinner, but it’s warm, mid twenties, whereas all our childhood experience leads us to associate early nightfall with cold temperatures. It can be quite hot at night in Canada in midsummer but that would be in the months of late sunset.

So in the interest of pleasant temperatures we head to the grocery store at about six. Dark enough to make crossing the road by Sklavinitis slightly hazardous in the after work traffic. And store pretty busy. Grateful for the pictures on some products. Can never remember the Greek word for sheep so the drawing on the sheep yoghurt container quite helpful. Stylised sketches not preferred. 

Fortunately for us most sweet things are expensive. Not really explained by the fact that sugar must be imported, as this is the case with other things that have a much  lower markup. Not a sin tax either, unless the definition of sin is different - which it probably is. A bottle of Famous Grouse whiskey currently selling for €12.45 here would be €29 equivalent in Ontario. But it really isn’t whisky weather. Think that the price of pastries is down to the fact that most Cypriots seem to have a taste for desserts of a paralysing sweetness. The price is just what the market will bear.

Thursday, November 2/2023

 Some discussion in the press, both Cypriot and international, of establishing a sea corridor for delivering humanitarian aid to Gaza. General agreement on desirability, with President Nikos Christodoulides announcing that he had had a long telephone conversation with Netanyahu who, he says “was not opposed”. The distance from the Cypriot port of Limassol to Gaza is only 390 kilometres, but sea access is not normally possible as the coast is patrolled by the Israeli navy. So does this mean that aid could be provided almost immediately? Well, not precisely. A more cautious note from a Cypriot government spokesman: “This will be a big operation and one which needs to be coordinated in advance with international aid agencies”. So not soon.

Then, from The Times of Israel: “The underlying premise of Cyprus’s proposal is to have a constant flow of large quantities of assistance delivered by sea during what the officials called ‘humanitarian pauses’ in the fighting, to enable aid to reach those in need. We want to be ready to start sending aid once a window of opportunity opens.” So after the war is over? For anyone who remains.

Wednesday, November 1/2023

When we first started coming to Larnaca, over twenty years ago, you would often see small fields - really a bit more than vacant lots - in the middle of mixed residential and commercial neighbourhoods. Uncut grass, wildflowers, mustard. A touch of country. Gradually these have been disappearing as their financial value is realised in terms of high rise apartment buildings. So we walk over to Sklavenitis and Prinos as we continue to acquire a little basic food to set up and realise that in a walk of about four blocks we are passing several new apartment blocks. And only the tiniest bit of remaining “country”.

Prinos is a greengrocer’s that outgrew its humble origins in the city centre for classier quarters and prices beginning to match. Although most food prices have risen since the pandemic, as in the rest of the world. Some real bargains, though, like lovely Conference pears for €2.40 (£2.08, $3.50 CAD) a kilo. They won’t be from Cyprus - more probably Greece. We’re almost between two major fruit seasons, with the grapes just finishing and the citrus barely beginning. In fact what might at a distance be mistaken for limes turns out to be extremely underripe clementines.

Across the road at Sklavenitis supermarket we get olive oil, roasted peanuts, lovely small glossy aubergines - for €1.07 (£0.92, $1.56 CAD) a kilo. Interesting. Everything in Canada is in fact labelled in kilos but often the price in pounds appears much larger, presumably because the number is a reassuringly smaller one. Here everything is

in kilos only. The trick is to have. Sign on the shelf that says something like this: Not 

exactly deceitful, but the intent is to have you focus on the smaller number.

Tuesday, October 31/2023

 

We’re slightly taken aback by how warm it is. True, we haven’t been in Cyprus in October before, but we have been in the first part of November. Predicted highs this week between 28 and 30, while the average high in November is 23 in Larnaca. But then no two years fit the average pattern precisely anywhere. Expected lows between 16 and 20. No mid-continent effect here!

Retrieve our storage boxes, now down to two, and bring them up to the flat. No huge surprises - a little kitchen gadgetry and a few charity shop treasures, a couple of books. Also a combination radio CD player and quite a few CDs, another charity shop find years ago.  Probably the collection of someone who died or went back to England. But music we like.

Minimal grocery shop at Sarris, still know to us as the elephant store from a previous incarnation. Sun dried olives at €4.39 (£3.82, $6.44 CAD) a kilo, a loaf of wholemeal bread, a couple each of onions, long sweet red peppers, courgettes and bananas, and a few mushrooms. And on the way home a kilo of honey and a bottle of Spanish cabernet. We have chicken and cheese. It’s a start.

Monday, October 30/2023

 

Check out time. Pretty well packed so we just have a bit of clean up. The place was spotless when we moved in and well equipped, so it’s puzzling to find that one of the very large bath towels is nowhere to be seen. Couldn’t possibly have packed it or accidentally thrown it out. Eventually discovered under the pillows, having somehow been made up into the bed.

Tube to Heathrow and a session of people watching as we wait first for baggage drop time and then for boarding. The smoothest and most intuitive procedures we’ve seen for obtaining boarding passes and luggage tags as well as dropping off the suitcases. Pretty quick and efficient at security as well.  And then the three hour wait. Bit of people watching airside as well. There’s a man in a dress kilt and bonnet, the latter adorned with a small knitted decoration. Unclear what it  represents  but it does call to mind the old Scots wartime song The Toorie on his Bonnet :

  « He left his kilt and sporran/ And off he went to war in/ His red toorie oorie oorie ay. »

Needless to say he frightened the life out of the enemy.

The flight is slightly over an hour late leaving. And British Airways haven’t been what they once were for a number of years now. Gone are the days of sitting back with a hot meal and glass or two of wine included. Now if you wish you can have a small sandwich and a beer for £10. Which would be slightly less insulting if BA had not initially assured us that customers had said they PREFERRED choosing their own sandwiches to the previous arrangement. Survey limited to major shareholders?

Late departure leads to late arrival. A little after midnight so the last scheduled bus has gone. But there are the ever hopeful taxis queued and one takes us to the Sunflower where the old man we think of as The Friend of the Hotel has been prevailed upon to await our arrival. He speaks no English but does remember us well so many smiles and handshaking. And the key.We’re home.

Sunday, October 29/2023

 « When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life, » said Dr Johnson. Gender inclusive statements weren’t a big thing in the eighteenth century. But it was and is true that London encompasses more than can be appreciated in one lifetime. One of the pleasures - first noted on a visit in 1989 - is the variety of impressive cars. On the walk over to the supermarket we pass Jaguars and Porsches. Even a Rolls Royce and a Tesla. The ordinary cars are the various Mercedes and BMWs. As well as less common models of more modest makes that we don’t run into at home. Though maybe if we lived in Vancouver. Would half tons seem exotic in London or just unsophisticated?

But not far from where we are staying now and in the heart of some of the places we have stayed in the past there is a different world. No Jaguars and people without homes let alone cars. The sign in this window in Kilburn High Road says SHOP TO RENT. The vacancy doubtless to the advantage of the rough sleepers who would not have been an asset to business. Looks like at least two regulars. Their temporary absence allowing me to take this photo without violating their privacy.

Saturday, October 28/2023

 A major demonstration in central London today in support of the civilians of Gaza, half of whom are children. We can’t join it for the afternoon but do stop outside Westminster underground station where the thousands of marchers are turning to cross Westminster Bridge to the south side of the river. Memories of the second demonstration against the Iraq invasion which we took part in, with over 750,000 people in the streets of London in March of 2003. A month after the initial protest with a million and a half marchers. 

There were rumours that those carrying Palestinian flags and signs supporting Palestine would be arrested but clearly the police aren’t interested in pursuing that sort of thing. Although in Germany arrests have been made for waving flags. Rather distressing, as one could presumably carry the flags of Russia, China or North Korea without anyone’s objecting.

There are mounted police as well as a helicopter circling overhead, but they appear to be keeping watch with no intention of interfering unnecessarily. At the end of the day the official announcement is that there have been two arrests - one for assaulting a police officer and one for shouting racist insults. None for expressing humanitarian or even political positions.  

How many were there? Not surprisingly there is a discrepancy  between the estimates of the march organisers and the police, with the former claiming half a million and the latter 100,000. Entirely probable that both figures have been influenced by political considerations.

Friday, October 27/2023

 London is largely a number of villages that grew together, joining up especially when the railway lines went in and provided access to the city. Belsize Park existed before the underground railway was constructed but it was countryside in the early days.

The name itself comes from the French Bel Assis, or well situated, and earliest references go back to the fourteenth century. There was once a manor house, rebuilt at various points and eventually torn down. Located at an intersection we pass through on our way down to Finchley Road. Nothing at all remaining of its rural origins, which would have been early seventeenth century, when it played host to aristocratic hunting parties. “ Rebuilt in 1663, it was sublet by 1721, when the parklands opened as pleasure gardens for those looking to escape the dirt and grime of the City of London, with concerts, singing, dancing and country sports such as fishing and racing. In 1722 magistrates were instructed to act to stop riotous behaviour, although the parkland remained open until 1745.” [Wikipedia].

Hunter’s Lodge in Belsize Park survived much longer though and was at one time the home of Spencer Percival, the only British prime minister to have been assassinated (1812, in the House of Commons). This house still exists and, in fact, went up for sale two years ago, with an asking price of £7.5 million. Although it’s fair to say there had been « improvements » - a basement lap swimming pool and spa and a champagne tasting room.

The twentieth century saw Belsize Park developing into an affluent suburb with many of the original houses being divided into flats and new houses built including those on our street, where a blue plaque confirms that one of the houses was once the home of Ramsay MacDonald, the first Labour prime minister.

2021 - photo Joas Souza, Daily Mail

       

  

Thursday, October 26/2023

 To West Harrow to see Jean. Quite handy leaving from Finchley Road Station. Had originally intended to go yesterday but postponed it as it took the morning to get back from Thames Ditton. We’ve visited her here pretty regularly over the last thirty-five years in the same house (1906). And her next door neighbour, Jean says, was born two streets away when the neighbourhood was more like a village. 1906 is two years after the section of the Metropolitan line of the underground was constructed (although it’s completely above ground this far west). As in other parts of Britain, the expansion of railways allowed suburban growth as people could live near the railway and work in the city. And, much earlier than this the Metropolitan has the distinction of being the first underground railway in the 

world. It dates back to 1863 and originally featured steam locomotives and gas-lit wooden carriages.

A community of Victorian and Edwardian houses, many with flowers still blooming. Jean’s fuschias are brilliant and we pass luxuriant window boxes on our way back to the station. By the time we reach home the moon has risen - very nearly the full Hunter’s Moon it will become this weekend.

Wednesday, October 25/2023

 Trains from Thames Ditton seem to be running as usual and on time this morning.  Could have checked online last night, as our friend of the platform doubtless was doing, but we’ve never experienced more than slight delays in the past. It’s a nice little station. Only open weekday mornings but they have lots of info available and sell coffees that fund the station garden - pots of colourful flowers. An hour and a half from the station to our front door. Do google to see if there’s anything on last night’s problem. Apparently true that a person was hit by a train, and at Wimbledon they now say. About noon, so we’re fortunate to have got to Thames Ditton at all.

Suicides on the London Transport system average about one a week. It’s a number that is a little difficult to establish as it’s not always clear whether an individual fell or jumped. Being pushed is much rarer, though it has happened. And suicide numbers have been dropping as TFL has taken stronger preventative measures.

Tuesday, October 24/2023

 To Doug and Jenny’s in Thames Ditton to spend the day. One of the chief pleasures of visiting London. Arrive in time for morning coffee and the catch up begins. As we arrive we pass Jenny on her way to the village pastry shop. Acquiring the beautiful quiches - two ham and two vegetarian - that we have along with a salad for lunch. 

Then Doug and J head off to inspect the last remaining two properties of Doug’s post retirement occupation. In his pre-retirement days D was an engineer, and J says that all his renovations have the engineer’s precision, even in spots where a casual observer would never notice the attention to detail.

Meanwhile Jenny and I take a walk through the village, stopping down by the river where there is a bridge across to an island featuring a number of houses - once summer only but now year round residences, many with boat moorings. We’re back in time for a visit from Emma along with daughters Jasmine and Leila and Laura’s son Cody. We’ve hit a two week school break, although Jasmine, doing her GCSE’s this year, tells us she has an English test when she goes back on Monday.

Dinner for the four of us with more treats from the village pastry shop for dessert. And time to be on our way as trains from Thames Ditton only go every half hour. When we reach the platform there is only one man waiting and he points out that our train has been cancelled. Slowly it emerges that subsequent trains have been delayed and arrival estimations keep moving later. Our informant, who has been busy with his mobile, tells us that someone has been hit on the tracks and that the next train heading our way, marked as delayed, has not in fact left Waterloo. 

So back to D and J’s, who kindly put us up for the night - a very comfortable bed on the third floor in a room with enough good books we could easily stay for a year.

Monday, October 23/2023

 Technical errand day. Appointment at the Apple store in Covent Garden. New iPad mini 6 has been glitchy and totally froze the other day. Had installed assistive touch as workaround given lack of home button but unhappy at the thought that it could refuse to turn on some time making software unavailable. Looks like non drastic solution as prescribed by lovely young woman in hijab, along with reassurance re online help if necessary when in countries with no Apple stores.

Not yet noon so second stop is HSBC branch on Kilburn High Road. Need some digital updating available only at full service branches - of which there are few remaining. Hit it lucky here as our consultant is a young Albanian man who has lived in Greece as well as London. Tons of cheerful advice well beyond what we actually required, just for the sheer nerdish pleasure of edging us a little further into the digital age. And, as an Albanian, well aware of the idiosyncratic nature of financial transactions in small countries or those outside the EU. London is one of the most multicultural cities in the world - a third of the inhabitants foreign born - but even so we’ve been fortunate in our advisors.

One of the pleasures of Kilburn High Road is the fruit and vegetables stands. Prices usually much better than in more affluent neighbourhoods but quality every bit as good. Two small containers of raspberries for £1.10 (€1.25, $1.85 CAD) and a half kilo of excellent cherry tomatoes for a pound (€1.14, $1.68 CAD). Fortunately accompanied by a plastic bag, as we have neglected to bring one.

Overheard: “I take a carry-on but it’s half full of popcorn….” Reminiscent of the old series of cartoons called The Eavesdropper” that used to run in the New Yorker. A snippet of conversation accompanied by the image evoked in the mind of the person overhearing.

Sunday, October 22/2023

Sunny and warm. A good day for reacquainting ourselves with the cafés and shops around Belsize Park tube station. Some look familiar, like the organic fruit and vegetable shop. Others, like some of the little restaurants are part of the regular turnover. There’s a small hardware store that may have been there before and a Daunt bookshop that apparently was. The gourmet burger restaurant 🙄 wasn’t. We’re interested in seeing Budgens, part of a small but fairly pricey supermarket chain. Handy for minor purchases when we used to stay nearby.

Has now become Kavanagh’s Budgens, with Kavanagh’s writ much larger. Significantly upscale from its former self and clearly catering to a clientele for whom price is not an important consideration. Plenty of exotic imports, kosher breads, varieties of olives with no price affixed - if you have to ask it’s probably not for you). Oddly enough the wine prices seem quite reasonable, so that could prove handy. No young mums to be seen and the elderly may be in receipt of pensions but don’t look as if the state stipend were important to their survival. (Photo not mine but suspect there would be no objection to the free publicity.)

Saturday, October 21/2023

 Rainy off and on. Actually more on than off. And relatively late in the day when we realise that London’s demonstration protesting the genocidal response to Gaza has been taking place. Reports on numbers vary widely, which is not unusual, with organisers saying over 300,000 attended whilst the Metropolitan report “up to 100,000”. This is interesting in itself, as on previous London protests the police, when appealed to for verification of numbers, have claimed that they never make their estimates public. Leaving most journalists taking refuge weakly in “tens of thousands”.

We do go down to Aldi, leaving in a gap in the rain. Actual shortest distance as calculated by Transport for London is a mile (though they give the kilometre equivalent). Interesting that TFL is happy to provide distances, time estimates and best routes for those walking or cycling as well as those using buses or tube. Significantly wetter returning, though unlike yesterday we don’t walk more than the necessary mile. Didn’t bring umbrellas this time. They take up a fair bit of room and are difficult to use when pulling suitcases or carrying bags. Rewarded with a hot meal of pasta, vegetables and chicken.

Friday, October 20/2023

Flight arrives near noon, which works well for a three pm check in at the studio we’ve booked in Belsize Park. It’s quite near Belsize Park tube station in a neighbourhood we’ve lived in many times, although not recently. Key in the lock box as promised and we’re in. 

Down about five to Finchley Road to buy the makings for supper. Our new area is classier than the last couple. According to Wikipedia "the name is derived from French bel assis meaning 'well situated'". Also "the area has many thoroughfares bearing its name: Belsize Avenue, Belsize Court, Belsize Crescent, Belsize Gardens, Belsize Grove, Belsize Lane, Belsize Mews, Belsize Park (the road), Belsize Park Gardens, Belsize Place, Belsize Square, and Belsize Terrace". This latter not entirely an advantage when returning from Aldi in the dark, especially as streets that appear to be parallel wander off the grid at will. Have managed a pretty efficient route going - not so much coming back.

But the kitchen is pretty well equipped, the wifi works smoothly, and we have some decent seeded bread and a bottle of Tempranillo. All’s well.

 

Thursday, October 19/2023

The stunning weather continues so we take the bus to the airport. Have always maintained that Winnipeg bus drivers are the nicest in the world, almost uniformly friendly and helpful, though sadly Jennifer, who works for Workers Compensation Board, says they receive a lot of abuse. Do see quite a few teenagers thanking the driver as they leave the bus, though. 

As was the case last year we’ve been denied online boarding passes. Then the explanation was that we’d booked a round trip of over six months and needed to provide proof we weren’t illegally moving to the UK - as in an onward ticket. This time the agent spends a great deal of time squinting at the computer but issues the passes without asking to see the screen shot of our London to Cyprus ticket.

Flight full to Toronto but one from Toronto to London not at all crowded. Rumours that dinner not included fortunately false. Suspected Air Canada of attempting to save money by insisting that no one actually wanted dinner near midnight anyway. And indeed this dinner barely worth eating but happily the wines on AC usually significantly better than the food. And so to sleep. 

Wednesday, October 18/2023

 

Sunny and warm again today and lovely day for taking the bus downtown. The errand being to close an account, seldom used, and in fact dormant, with HSBC. The dormant bit is the problem. Tried to do it online and was told that we should go, equipped with two pieces of photo ID, to our nearest branch. So, 270 miles later here we are. Did point out that it was a somewhat unsatisfactory method of proceeding. 

Couldn’t have been a nicer day for it though. There are many attractive facets to Winnipeg but the downtown a bit short on aesthetic planning. Witness the Catholic cathedral, a lovely Romanesque Revival building dwarfed by a cacophony of recent giant buildings. However, we discover a delightful little oasis. True North Square, tucked in behind the sports arena and deserved winner of a design competition. The wind is blocked but the sun isn’t. It’s quiet. There is seating, and planters and a fountain. Even a drinking fountain designed for tall people, short people and dogs.

Tuesday, October 17/2023

Haven’t yet seen the youngest member of the tribe, Jillian and David’s daughter Sully, born two weeks ago. Five and a half pounds of perfection. Van Gogh, the dog, mildly interested, but can see she’s too young to play.

We’re in luck because Lauren and Darryl are also here and Darryl is cooking - a supreme chef and we’re treated to a classic beef bourguignon - with flair. And Lauren is, by profession, a chocolatier and has brought a selection that looks as good as it tastes. What more could we ask? Oh yes, music! There is that too. Darryl tunes a guitar and he and Lauren sing - which they also do professionally. 

And Sully, the baby, sleeps peacefully through it all. Though we suspect she may stay awake all night.

Monday, October 16/2023

 

If the weather were always like this we might never leave, which would be a shame because the world is full of seductively beautiful places. But we do know that the golden warmth is deceptive and the ice age will follow.

Train roughly three and a half hours late - actually unusual on westbound though sadly the least that can be expected coming east. Mussolini had many obvious failings but making the trains run on time is not an insignificant achievement - though one most of Europe does manage. It’s a remarkably scenic trip any time of the year but this time the leaves of the birch trees have turned but not fallen and the tamaracks are an even more brilliant feathered gold, all reflected in the many lakes along the track.

Naturally arrive late - after ten - in Winnipeg, having been warned that we will be required to stay on board for safety reasons during some fifteen minutes of servicing. Fifteen minutes stretches and most are patient, bar one young man, in withdrawal from nicotine or worse, who paces the aisle talking to himself about the need to bust out. Seems there was one possible means of early exit though. An ambulance is seen outside and rumour quickly establishes that an old woman drank too much in the bar car and fell downstairs. Confirmed by a man in the seat behind - “six doubles while I was there”.

And Jennifer, graciously uncomplaining, has waited to collect us.