Love looking at the sea every morning, and as the colour changes throughout the day. Have found a site that shows 144 different shades of blue, complete with names (useful) as well as Hex, RGB, and CMYK codes (well beyond my blogging requirements). Think this morning’s sea is Beau Blue, a faint blue grey, although there are other possibilities. Sometimes the demarcation between sea and sky completely disappears and other times the sea is a dark, vibrant blue - or even multicoloured.
We live our lives forever taking leave - Rilke
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Sunday, 30 November 2025
Sunday, November 30/2025
Love looking at the sea every morning, and as the colour changes throughout the day. Have found a site that shows 144 different shades of blue, complete with names (useful) as well as Hex, RGB, and CMYK codes (well beyond my blogging requirements). Think this morning’s sea is Beau Blue, a faint blue grey, although there are other possibilities. Sometimes the demarcation between sea and sky completely disappears and other times the sea is a dark, vibrant blue - or even multicoloured.
Saturday, 29 November 2025
Saturday, November 29/2025
Saturday is market day, though for various reasons we have not gone for the last couple of weeks. Christmassy things for sale - cards and decorations. We will take out a few things we’ve saved as we travel, but not yet. It’s still November!
Do buy an Ian Rankin novel from the animal rescue booth. Goes into the read aloud pile. We’ve probably read almost all of his as we’ve travelled. And watched Rankin develop as a novelist. The only crime writer we read together.
Are about to leave the market when we spot, almost hidden, a carton with a half dozen free range eggs. Well, actually hidden, it seems. Toni’s husband, whose free range hens they came from, tells us Toni had set them aside for us, the last carton. Forty-five Turkish lira ($1.36 CAD, £.80). One of the true bargains in this country.
J has set up on the terrace with the hot glue gun in order to repair the soles of our shoes and sandals.
Friday, November 28/2025
Temperatures still reliably in the twenties. Pleasant breeze as we walk down to the Blue Song. Whitecaps in evidence. Commonly known in British English as white horses. And apparently in French as moutons - fair enough.
Beverley busy as usual. Actually busier, as she’s drawing up seating arrangements for next week’s Christmas dinner theatre put on by Kyrenia Amateur Dramatic Society. Happily I am reminded when J asks if it’s next week. Somehow December still feels like distant future - as opposed to Monday. Temperature is deceptive, and this despite twenty one Christmases in Cyprus - beginning in 2000 minus two in Canada and one in England.
Sun setting behind the mountain at quarter to five as we walk home. Just over three weeks until the winter solstice, and of course we’re living on the north slope of a mountain. Much later sunset on the south side.
Thursday, 27 November 2025
Thursday, November 27/2025
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| Baba Ganoush |
Unsettled weather leads to peasant style cooking as well as reading. So yesterday the remaining eggs went into, or more accurately onto, a tomato and pepper sauce. Basically a Middle East shakshuka, where the eggs poach on top. Next time will go for menemen, the Turkish equivalent in which the eggs are scrambled into the sauce, in a breakfast classic.
Wednesday, 26 November 2025
Wednesday, November 26/2025
Winter is our reading season, not that we don’t read during the rest of the year. In the early years we wrecked suitcases carrying books for the winter - always too few and having to meet a number of criteria. No hard covers (too heavy). No books that we wanted to keep, as we had to trade as we went. Only books of interest to both of us.
Often we were in countries where English language books were difficult to find, which meant our tastes became, of necessity, more eclectic, as we acquired books that had been left in hotel lobbies or reposed in the tiny “foreign” section of second hand book shops in non-English countries. We still occasionally see a reference to a book - most recently Evelyn Waugh’s satirical novel Scoop (1938) - and realise that we read it, years ago, mostly because it was there.
The enormous change for us came with the introduction of e-books. We knew they existed, but our first sight of one came in St Stephen’s Green, Dublin, famous for its role in the Easter 1916 Irish Uprising. We shared a park bench with a man who was using a book reader. He said he loved “real” books but was travelling with ten books on the reader. We were sold.
Not only could we travel with as many books as we wished but we were no longer limited to daytime reading in a world of hotels lit by badly placed 40 watt light bulbs. (And yes, J has been known to replace them with higher wattage).
Meanwhile “real” books have become much easier to find in non English speaking countries. (Though there always were surprising exceptions, like the overflowing second hand book shop in Antalya, Türkiye in 2001 where the multilingual proprietor assumed that we must be as familiar with the work of Canadian political philosopher John Ralston Saul as he was). Charity shops became a good source where there were expat communities. Here the animals rescue people have an excellent booth at the weekly market.
And so we have books. Hard cover, soft cover, e-books. More than we’ll probably finish but happy choices. Real books to read outside in the sunlight and e-books for the iPads at night. And, as we’ve always done, several designated for the old Victorian custom of reading aloud so we can share the enjoyment and discuss them, although we do other reading separately as well. Currently the shared books are:
* commentator/journalist John Simpson’s Unreliable Sources, surveying trends and biases in twentieth century reporting
* Irish writer Roddy Doyle’s highly engaging memoir of his parents, Rory and Ita, most of it in their own words, as they experienced life in Ireland from the 1930’s to the 1970’s
* Peter Oborne’s recently released (last month, another advantage to ebooks is the immediate availability) book Complicit, a “fearless and forensic” examination of Britain’s role in the destruction of Gaza.
Tuesday, 25 November 2025
Tuesday, November 25/2025
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| Courtesy philenews |
Crazy weather. Intermittent heavy rain showers here. Some thunder. Reports of a Tornado hitting on the town of Avgorou near the northeast coast of the Republic of Cyprus (South). Also reports from the South of damage caused by lightning strikes.
Monday, 24 November 2025
Monday, November 24/2025
Early morning air soft and slightly misty. Lovely breeze. If we were in Canada and the air felt like this I’d expect rain soon. In London we’ve learned that it might well rain but it might equally well not. The damp slightly overcast bit is no indication one way or the other.
Looking north, toward the sea, there is also a muted haze. You can still see the demarcation where the sea meets the sky but they’re both blue greys. The azure saved for sunnier weather.
And the forecast? The theory is that there will be showers tonight and into tomorrow. So go to the shop to collect bread and yoghurt in case it’s wet in the morning but not betting the pension on it. And, as for AccuWeather’s thunderstorm warning, the accu bit has always been a bit of a misnomer.
Sunday, 23 November 2025
Sunday, November 23/2025
The North Cyprus reservoir. At the west side of the island. I took the photograph seven or eight years ago. The reservoir as beautiful as it looks but much larger as only a wide angle lens would have done it justice.
The source of the water is Turkey and it is supplied through a 107 km undersea pipeline able to carry 75 million cubic metres annually. It’s still barely enough, partly due to desertification with climate change and partly because people everywhere simply use much more water than their ancestors did - even those without swimming pools.
The quality of the water is marginally adequate. No problem for brushing teeth but should be boiled for drinking water. So most people choose between filters or using bottled water for drinking. Happily, Mehmet, the nice man who delivers our gas cylinders when needed, also delivers nineteen litre bottles of water. Also, happily, we don’t need to establish a regular amount or schedule. I just send him a WhatsApp message asking for a bottle of water the next day and he cheerfully obliges. Should be here tomorrow. A small manual pump fits in the mouth of the bottle so no stand required. A hundred lira a delivery ($3.30 CAD, £1.80). Lasts us about a week.
Saturday, 22 November 2025
Saturday, November 22/2025
Two thirds of the way from the autumn equinox to the winter solstice but no one seems to have informed the flowers or whoever is in charge of the temperature. Seventeen degrees when we wake up at about seven o’clock and a predicted high of 27.
We take the dolmuș over to see Doğan as we have some papers to collect. He’s busy, as always, this time involved in the formation of a new political party. Interestingly no current members of parliament are permitted to apply. No doubt we will eventually hear more, hindered somewhat by our inability to read Turkish and follow the party’s fortunes in the local press.
Everywhere we go there are flowers. Pass this trumpetbush on the way to Doğan’s office, round the corner and up the hill from Dima. Dima is a useful stopping spot on a dolmuș trip. Not nearly as useful as it once was, though. Once upon a time it had reliably good specials on wine. Now no better than our local grocery store and not as good as Șokmar. Suppose it’s good to know that going farther doesn’t mean better deals - just farther to carry them.
Friday, 21 November 2025
Friday, November 21/2025
Still eating our own oranges. They have grown a little but still suffering from a year of drought. Sweet, though. But we have, as the saying goes, picked most of the low hanging fruit already, and the lovely ripe oranges we can see at the top of the tree are mostly out of reach. And would be even if we were to acquire a stepladder.
So J has devised an orange picking tool. It’s on the end of a broomstick - a plastic bottle cut to pluck and collect one orange at a time. And yes, it works.
Thursday, 20 November 2025
Thursday, November 20/2025
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| Courtesy KıbrısOnAir |
Typical North Cyprus arrest story. Well, not entirely typical, because the person arrested in this case is a teacher who stole the money she had been collecting from students for gym fees. That has to be unusual in any venue. Because it’s wrong, because most teachers care about their students, and also, of course, because the odds of getting away with it must have been non-existent.
Not unusual to show photographs of the arrest. Face obscured to protect the guilty. As in other jurisdictions it seems to be important to report the perpetrator’s age and not only when he or she seems to be unusually old or young to have committed the crime - as in car theft by a nine year old or ninety-nine year old.
What is unusual, although standard operating procedure here, is to provide the initials of the accused. In this case “a 37-year-old teacher, identified by her initials E.S.” Presumably everybody in the relevant Nicosia school - and their friends and relations - already know her name and much more. It hides her identity only from the likes of us who are far removed from the situation.
Is interesting to know that “the suspect had 7,280 Turkish Lira in her possession, which was taken as evidence”. Not an enormous sum ($241.71 CAD, £131.56) and considerably less than the 25,000 lira she is said to have stolen from the students. But how on earth would it constitute evidence? Had the students marked the notes before handing them in? Endless speculation.
Wednesday, 19 November 2025
Wednesday, November 19/2025
Bougainvillea thriving on the mountain side of the flat. Always almost as delighted by its name as by its appearance, and with only minimal embarrassment quote from my own blog of 2018:
Tuesday, 18 November 2025
Tuesday, November 18/2025
Having said which, the large, dark seeded grapes at the local store are much nicer than the smaller seedless ones. Enough so that I’m quite willing to cut them up and remove the seeds to mix them, along with orange segments, in the morning’s sheep’s yoghurt. Full disclosure - also add banana, carob syrup, and a little honey.
Cutting the seeds out of the raisins much more labour intensive though. Why do they exist at all? Possible that some people like the seeds. They’re nasty and bitter but it’s difficult to find any food item that nobody likes. Apparently they’re nutritious as well. Can well believe the posts claiming that grapes with seeds are nutritionally superior to those bred to be seedless. Their flesh that is. Am willing to forego any additional food value in the seeds. (And perfectly happy to know that apple seeds are toxic).
Photo not mine - but similar.
Monday, 17 November 2025
Monday, November 16/2025
Sourdough bread not on the list but when we get to the store it is still hot. Actually added to the case while we are shopping, so don’t even attempt to resist. Do wish people would make whole grain sourdough bread, but assume I will just have to add it to my own list of skills to be acquired.
Sunday, 16 November 2025
Sunday, November 16/2025
Next door’s cat. And we only know she’s next door’s because we were across the hall in their flat the other day and saw her underneath the table looking quite at home. Which explains why she feels comfortable co-opting cushioned chairs on our patio, which from her point of view is only another patio attached to her building, walls not being much barrier to cats.
Better than the cushion on a wicker chair, though, is her happy place - well camouflaged in the bracken beside the orange tree. Really well camouflaged. I’ve often failed to spot her and when I took this picture of her curled up I initially couldn’t see her in the original photo. Photograph top right is a cropped section of the photo on the left with contrast enhanced.
Probably a good thing for us that she likes it there. Should deter rats, who are happy to hollow out fallen oranges, and possibly discourage snakes as well.
Saturday, 15 November 2025
Saturday, November 15/2025
Convenient to have exchanged Canadian currency for Turkish lira. We only lose once on the exchange fee - currency exchanges, whether at banks or on the high street are, after all, in business to make a profit. And any pounds sterling or euros in our possession have already been exchanged. On the other hand Overinflated Turkish currency takes up a lot of wallet space for its actual purchasing value. The photo is of a thousand fifteen Turkish lira. Equivalent to $33.63 CAD or £18.22. Not a huge sum to take to the supermarket.
Friday, 14 November 2025
Friday, November 14/2025
Hibiscus flowers seem to be appearing one at a time, unlike the extravagant bougainvillea. But lovely. Between the hibiscus and the bougainvillea is oleander. Attractive enough when in bloom but not something we would have chosen to plant. Not only toxic if consumed but should not be touched without gloves and after trimming you really can’t dispose of the branches by burning because the smoke from the fire would be toxic. Probably not instant death, but not encouraging.
Did rain heavily, if briefly, during the night. Bit late for any further development of the oranges but must have been appreciated by the flowering shrubs.
Thursday, 13 November 2025
Thursday, November 13/2020
J has been squeezing our oranges in order to make juice. Photo is not photoshopped and it occurs to us that if we were to see juice that colour in a bottle at the supermarket we would assume that it contained dyes as well as chemicals. But here we have it. Just straight juice from the oranges on the tree on the patio.
Another earthquake this morning in the Paphos area, this one 4.6 magnitude.
Thunder storm warnings followed by strong winds, and thunder and lightning. But sound and fury signifying nothing. A couple of dozen drops of rain, though we could use more. A correspondent on the east side of the island reports hail which seems to have interested her dogs, but that’s about it.
Wednesday, 12 November 2025
Wednesday, November 12/2025
Assume that it’s a good thing we didn’t, as in a tribute to the quality of construction of our building, erected after the new earthquake code.
A local has kindly put on line a check list of what to take if one is required to evacuate suddenly. Begins with passports. Not a bad idea as there are an amazing number of things that it’s impossible to do without same. Like pay a bill or buy a sim. Even so, would be inclined to rank money, shoes, and house key higher. Credit cards, phone, iPad. Guess everything but the shoes would go in a handbag.
Reminds us of an earthquake twelve years ago when we were staying in Larnaca. A quake we could feel. A hundred and twenty-seven miles northwest of us and 5.8 magnitude. The dilemma then was whether to walk down five flights of stairs, prudently avoiding the lift, and stand outside in a thunderstorm or remain ensconced in our flat, whiskeys in hand, appreciating the view of the storm. Whiskeys and the view won, and we’re still here.
Tuesday, 11 November 2025
Tuesday, November 11/2025
November 11 and Dostoevsky’s two hundred and fourth birthday. Also, of course, Remembrance Day, though that isn’t celebrated in North Cyprus. Not that the silent standing to attention already took place yesterday, although it did.
Monday, 10 November 2025
Monday, November 10/2025
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| Courtesy KıbrısOnAir |
Today is the official day of commemoration for Kemal Atatürk. Not a public holiday but there are ceremonies, though not ones we had planned to attend. In fact we are reminded of the occasion at nine in the morning when loud sirens start up and we dismiss possibilities such as air raid. Can see that the two minutes of silence are indeed taken seriously though from the photo on KıbrısOnAir. Traffic stopped and people standing at attention beside their cars.
Take the dolmuş to Girne where we have errands to do. Dolmuş full and the woman (well past middle age) in the seat ahead is occupied with attaching a colourful paper object to the window latch. Looks like a religious object perhaps. No, on closer observation turns out to be a SpongeBob card.
Centre of Girne has become much busier and more commercial since we first stayed here twenty-five years ago. There must have been currency exchanges here then as well, though I don’t remember them. We’re changing Canadian dollars to Turkish lira. Do also have British pounds and a few euros with us but more efficient to effect a single rather than double exchange. Have learned to say Canada dollars rather than Canadian. Less grammatical but much easier for non Anglo ears to pick up. “Canadian” emphasises the second syllable and pronounces the long A in a way that only English speakers do. Almost never understood on the first try.
Stop for a lamb pita at a tiny outdoor café that we used to eat at when we first stayed here. In those days pitas and chips totally unknown. We would look at the basins of old-fashioned Cypriot cooking and point to what we wanted. Feels like a different century.
Bank and Mr Pound on the way home. Mr Pound inspired by pound or dollar stores. Inflation has hit here too. Can’t remember what the price was a year ago but everything now 70 Turkish lira. More like £1.30 than a pound. But a good variety of inexpensive items from reading glasses to cheap Christmas decorations and minor hardware.
And stop at our little supermarket on the way home. Eggs, bananas, grapes - and a small loaf of sourdough bread, still warm.
Sunday, 9 November 2025
Sunday, November 9/2025
Little dark brown lizard on the patio. Surprisingly quick and not about to pose for photo op. About two inches long.
Dinner with Beverley and John, as well as Pat and Carol and Paul at the Black Olive. It does a Sunday roast British style every second weekend. Though not for much longer, as the landlord is about to raise the rent by fifty percent, so they’re closing down at the end of next month. Shame. Seem to be a number of places caught with escalating expenses leading to unsustainable costs. And not only in North Cyprus, of course.
Saturday, 8 November 2025
Saturday, November 8/2025
Pass a bus stop on the way down to the market. Actually we pass this bus stop pretty regularly as it’s just our side of our usual grocery store. The sofa is a new addition though. Looks attractive enough but one suspects that the primary reason for its placement might be that its owner was unwilling to pay for transport to the dump.
Looks comfortable and could last for quite a long time in a climate where it seldom rains. The strange thing, though, is that the bus shelter next to it - roof and bench and all - must never get used, at least for the purpose of awaiting buses. It’s not actually on a bus route. You can get a somewhat infrequent dolmuş across the road from it but the route is on a loop at that point. No dolmuş would ever stop in front of the shelter, although it might have been on a route in the past when loops were less popular. A happy spot for waiting for Godot.
Friday, 7 November 2025
Friday, November 7/2025
Wake up to discover that we have no electricity and consequently no internet. So coffee via water heated on the gas hob. Fortunately enough beans already ground. But reading the morning newspapers clearly not on. And no way to check on how widespread the outage is. Amazingly quiet outside, though. None of the normal construction and mechanical noises - just the odd car driving past.
Ask J what we did after coffee during our winter travels in the days before we had internet access. Well, read ‘real’ books, for one thing. And they had to be read in the daytime because most places we stayed had inadequate lighting, typically badly placed forty watt bulbs. And yes, J had been known to replace same with higher wattage. Ebooks, among their other virtues, compensate for poor lighting.
The outside world as hazy as the dust forecasts predicted. Small cat, though, happy to curl up on a cushion we seem to have left on an outside chair, making herself very comfortable. And stays for hours.
Power off (barring a few false starts) until nearly half past one when we leave for the Blue Song. Once restored we get the explanations - sort of. Problem state wide and caused, the electric authority says, by the combination of high humidity and an excess of atmospheric dust affecting high voltage lines. Some skepticism re explanation, but power is back.
Thursday, 6 November 2025
Thursday, November 6/2025
Tree producing oranges faster than we can eat them. So J goes into production mode and we now have orange juice, as well as quite a lot of oranges for eating. Basin contains the oranges I picked off the ground this morning. Have discovered that leaving those with large bruises to rot is not a brilliant plan. Long before they would have been providing fertilizer for the tree they will have been expertly hollowed out by suspects unknown. Can’t be birds. Wouldn’t be cats. So most probable culprits are rats. Therefore best to collect and dispose of any rotting fruit.
Wednesday, 5 November 2025
Wednesday, November 5/2025
Suddenly there are dozens of oranges. Brought in a basin full of them yesterday and there are plenty more turning deep orange today. J points out that it’s not a good idea to leave them on the ground as they can attract rats. Not the right sort for making marmalade so we’ll just have to up our consumption. Life is tough.
As in many other places temperatures are running six to eight degrees above normal. This leaves all parts of the country experiencing severe drought. There have been discussions about the possibility of cloud seeding, but meanwhile the South relies almost entirely on desalination while the North has an undersea pipeline bringing water in from Türkiye.
Tuesday, 4 November 2025
Tuesday, November 4/2025
According to the meteorology department rain is expected Thursday and Friday. Light showers, that is. Technically it can be said to have rained in Lapta while we were outside yesterday, although ten drops might be an exaggeration.
AccuWeather on the other hand, never as “accu” as one might wish, is predicting no rain at all, as in 0% chance, on Thursday, whereas an hourly prediction on Friday eventually reaches 7% chance in the afternoon.
Have resisted AccuWeather’s suggestion that we subscribe to their premium service. Along with sparing us the advertisements they offer us the ability to see long range 90 day daily forecasts as well as detailed hourly forecasts ten days in advance. All for only $40 CAD a year. Plus tax, no doubt. Would be more impressive if they had a better track record on twenty-four hour predictions.
Monday, 3 November 2025
Monday, November 3/2025
Sunday, 2 November 2025
Sunday, November 2/2025
Sky just after sunset. Twenty-three degrees.
Sunset ends the first day of the “big”hunting season - big referring to the game and not the duration of the season, which consists of twelve days, consecutive Sundays.
Büyük av translates as big game hunting. Somewhat amusing for many non-Cypriots to realise what is regarded as “big game hunting” (small game consists entirely of smaller birds and has a separate hunting season). So rabbit and partridge are as big as it gets for hunting purposes . There are foxes and the Cypriot mouflon, a wild mountain sheep exists in the North as well as in the Republic of Cyprus, though it is considered endangered.
Saturday, 1 November 2025
Saturday, November 1/2025
Down to the Saturday market. Before we round the corner onto İbrahim Nidai Street we can already smell the jasmine that grows along the stone wall. In theory it grows here from June to January but the season may well be longer than that. When we were living in Famagusta old city during the lockdown five years ago the lovely lady across the road brought us little circlets of jasmine she had threaded when the blossoms came out in July. Perfumed the whole flat.




































