The harbour in Girne (Greek name Kyrenia) dates back to Venetian times and has always had a gentle period charm. We first stayed there in the winter of 2001, our first winter travelling. There were virtually no tourists there in January. We had taken the ferry from Türkiye and I sat with our bags in the square while J went and bargained for a room. No fast food places but we looked to see what was in the large metal basins in a café just off the square and pointed at what we wanted. All good peasant food and not a doner kebab in sight.
Two years ago the powers that be began a huge renovation project with tourist appeal in mind. Some of the revamping was doubtless needed to upgrade electrical and water supplies and make the pavements safer, but maintaining authentic period shabbiness clearly not an aim. So now it is attractive enough if you have no nostalgic memories of its former self. Restaurant prices have escalated sharply, and some of its soul has gone.
Apparently there is also a new sign announcing the fait accompli:
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| Photo by Salih Günhan. Posted by Ralph Kratzer. |
You can’t go home again.