Tuesday, February 21/2023

 Nicosia (Lefkosia, Lefkoşa) the last divided capital city in the world. Haven’t been there for six years and the first year we were there, early in 2001, we couldn’t cross the border. Went once to the South from Larnaca and a few weeks later from Girne in the North, having entered the North by ferry from Türkiye. A strange feeling looking down through a fence at a street we had walked on a few weeks earlier on the other side of a border we were forbidden to cross.

The border is somewhat more permeable now, but it’s still a border. And the North side remains poorer but more interesting, more distinctive. Much restoration, and also buildings that one fears will never be restored. Old houses stone walls in need of repair topped by satellite dishes and roofs with disintegrating tiles and blue plastic tarps to prevent leaks. At the same time the centre of the old city is definitely moving upscale. The covered market is more a collection of boutiques than of vegetable stalls, nut sellers and butchers. The Selimiye Mosque is currently closed for major reconstruction but the shops and cafés in the area seem to be thriving.

We head over to the Buyyuk Khan,  built in 1572 after the Ottoman takeover of the island. Initially a caravanserai, with two levels of rooms built around a courtyard, used after the British came in the 1870's as a prison, and eventually restored in the 1990's. Now all craft shops, with the courtyard used as a restaurant. We’re having a Turkish coffee and

trying to establish wifi. A gentleman from the next table comes over to help with the password. A few minutes later he returns and says he would like to give us this book he has written. The book is a slim reminiscence of his memories of being a fighter and also a high school student at the time of the 1974 conflict. He would have been a little younger than Fehmi who was a student home from Istanbul and in Gazimağusa at the time and maybe slightly older than Ulus [who it later transpires is a mutual FB friend]. The man’s name  is Süleyman Ergüçlü and he is a retired journalist, formerly Editor in Chief of the Kıbrıs Media Group.

Meet up at the Ledra Palace crossing with Steuart who comes bearing lunch, fish fritter and egg samosas from a Sri Lankan shop in the South. Incredibly good. Accompanied by delicious mango and coconut drinks. 

We take the mountain road returning. Steep and winding with breathtaking views of green fields below and ragged cliffs above as well as sheer drops on one side. Mostly only single lane, but virtually no traffic. Grazing mountain goats regard us with equanimity. They’ve seen people before and are only mildly interested.

 Pine trees scent the air and the sun warms the southern slopes. Then, when we pass the crest, there are white houses and the sea far below us.

And an equally winding road down and home to our village.