Fehmi, the dentist, invites us into his office to see his photographs and share some Turkish coffee that has assistant makes. The photos are on his computer and synched with music. Huge collection of CDs in his office and music playing in the dental surgery as well. Many photos of Famagusta, some quite impressive, and also family photographs tracing his life and heritage. As he says, we are the same vintage, and it's true in many ways. He's a little younger than we are, but not much, and we have many overlapping interests and views. Life in North Cyprus has been much more difficult than our life in Canada but very rich in family and community connections. Fehmi is working in the house he and his brothers were raised in. He has spent much of his life within the stone walls of the old city, formed lifelong friendships here, attended school, stood here in 1974 when a bomb fell a few metres away and killed the nearest four men. He's not a bitter man, but is well aware of the injustices his country has suffered. Still, his face is usually smiling, and walking into his house feels more like visiting a friend than it does like a medical appointment.
We stop at a restaurant that is no more than four little outside tables and a chalkboard showing the menu. We order chicken curry (from the four or five choices) and beer. North Cyprus lager is very good. The meal turns out to be more elaborate though, starting with a dish of various pickles, followed by small salads, yogurt on the side with the curry, and then finishing with Turkish coffee and biscuits. Fairly impressive for the minimal facilities - and price. We have company, too. Two dogs lie in the road next to us, enjoying the late afternoon sun, and having to be moved when a small truck wishes to park. Opposite us, just this side of the cathedral/mosque are shops whose walls were obviously part of the buildings in the mosque square.
We stop on our way back to buy a sunhat from the display outside one of the smaller shops. We walk along here in the mornings when the owners are setting up. A lot of work, as most of the wares have to be placed on tables and stands outside to have any hope of attracting the tourists, who are the only possible buyers.
