Last day, and a leisurely one. Have kind of fallen for this city. A tough people and used to resisting, from pre-historic times to Nazi occupation during the war. But a relaxed feel to the place. Because it's winter we're seeing Heraklion almost tourist free. Not quite, as the variety of people in the breakfast room shows. One of the few places in Europe - southern Europe at least - where I wouldn't stand out as being foreign. The cafés and squares are full, with people enjoying the sunshine and each other's company. We have a gelato - not quite Florence (my gold standard for ice cream) - but nearly. Lion's Square near us has a central fountain with four lions spewing water. Decorative, but initially created in 1628 to supply the citizens with water from the hills.