We live our lives forever taking leave - Rilke

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Saturday, 7 February 2015

Tuesday, February 3/2015

Room reveals its other deficiencies. Indirect lighting even in the bedside lamps. Does nobody read anything other than on lighted screens any more? Once the shutters are open there is still insufficient light since the sun has deserted us and the rain begun. The only place it's possible to read a map is in the loo. The loo is actually not bad, despite the cheaply made shower doors, and there is not only a hairdryer but a bidet. Though we're a little cynical. Presumably the hotel got its third star by checking a series of boxes - like hairdryer and bidet.

Roman statue bending down reaching for cold scrambled eggs


Breakfast is included, so we duly show up. Mostly it's cold. Ham, cheese, bread, cereal. The pastries are an exception, on a slightly warmed tray and not bad, if not particularly healthy. The scrambled eggs are not an exception - stone cold in a stone cold basin. Well, plenty of cholesterol without them. The coffee, caffè lungo to which we add hot water making them more or less Americano, is from a machine but actually quite good. The couple at the next table take two large pastries with them, wrapped in a napkin, when they go. But they leave a large stack of bread slices on their plate. Presumably they'd thought about acquiring sandwich makings for later but the age of the bread discouraged them.

Off with umbrellas to the metro station, about six blocks away. Our umbrellas are becoming a little the worse for wear, with a couple of the ribs doubling as semi-lethal rapiers. Actually various disconsolate street vendors try to sell us umbrellas, either ignoring our existing ones or dismissing them as sub-standard. Our area not really ideal for brisk sales of any sort. Buy three day public transport passes, €16.50 each. Down to Termini, which has changed significantly in the 20 years or so since we were last in Rome. Gone very much upscale. Used to be rather seedy but had a surprisingly unbad and inexpensive cafeteria. Now very much a for profit enterprise, expensive shops and only about six seats not attached to cafés. Never mind waiting rooms - spend while you wait. Very busy with trains coming and going and a large bus station outside and metro change point beneath. A small supermarket as well now - attractive but not cheap.

Back by metro, and out onto the wet streets. Can't find the little cafés we spotted yesterday, one of which had seemed very attractively non-touristy. Do stop at a local supermarket and buy apples, bananas and cherry tomatoes. Remainder of yesterday's bread and cheese still at the hotel, and the reception area always has a large thermos of very hot water and a wooden box filled with Twinings tea bags. Alarming number of ambulances seen and heard. Not entirely surprising considering the difficulties of crossing roads on walk lights that do nothing to deter drivers from making right turns across crosswalks in the wet dusk.

Evening in with somewhat more heat in the room, though no more light, of course. Many of the television films are American, of course, but with Italian dubbing. Seems quite strange watching the Indians in a cowboy movie speaking rapid Italian.