Walk with M and J down the Paphos waterfront. Again nearly deserted, and an almost physical sympathy for restaurateurs coming out to invite us in for lunch or coffee. Business obviously dreadful, but we can't begin to solve the problem with cups of unwanted instant coffee. At the end of the promenade, just before the castle, there is a building exhibiting work by local arts and crafts people. Some of it's intriguing: Maggi is quite taken by colourful accessories made of wool and I fall for stained glass tree ornaments, many of them heart-shaped, that incorporate romantic old-fashioned photographs and fragments of old letters. We both admire a large ornate mirror. We're standing outside discussing our favourites and regretting our total lack of space to accommodate more acquisitions, when we're joined by a couple of the exhibitors, one of them the husband of the woman who made the mirror, happy to tell us how pleased she will be to know how much we liked it. There are heart- breaking stories of lost jobs in the depressed economy and more time spent on the creative side, the refusal to lose hope. The valiant optimism more moving than any anger or bitterness could be.
At the other end of the walk we stop for a pint. Then it's home pack.