Stroll round the harbour. It's charming, reminiscent of Kyrenia's in North Cyprus, but bigger. The Venetians are responsible for much of the harbour construction (they began building the harbour wall in the early to mid 14th century) and even the lighthouse is partly Venetian, the oldest existing in Greece though much repaired in later times. There are also some of the arsenali of the period (no, not arsenals as I'd assumed, but dry docks). Many of the cafes and restaurants are closed for the season, with repairs and painting proceeding, but some are open. Coffee not cheap (Starbucks filter €2.50 - £2.10, $3.65 - compared with £1.55 in London) but in Greece local shops outdraw the big name chains, their coffee being considered superior.
The old town was originally walled and much of the wall and some (long dried out) moat remains. The earliest is Byzantine from the 10th century, built on earlier Hellenistic foundations. There are also significant remaining Venetian fortifications. We circle past the fishing boats, heading into town. Along the waterfront two or three men are fishing, one with no rod but a fairly efficient hand held reel. Don't know precisely what they're fishing for, but they must have fair expectation of a catch or they wouldn't bother.
As we head inland the old town joins the new. We stop for koulouria. The old woman selling assumes we're German but only a few words are needed anyway. In addition to the standard, she has a whole grain koulouri with sesame, flax, and pumpkin seeds, as well as small loaves with raisins or olives. The whole grain are delicious and we sit on a bench outside the town market to eat them in the sun. Children seem to be everywhere by noon. Is this standard or the Friday custom or a Feast of St Nicholas special? There's also a major demonstration by older students going on in the streets, but our Greek isn't up to identifying the issues. The town market (covered) is primarily for tourists, though there is a butcher and a cheese shop. A larger version of those in Larnaca and Paphos.