Sunny and warm again and off to the harbour. Stop first at the post office and then down past a small cemetery. It's crowded as are all Cypriot graveyards - more graves than yard. The monuments are large but there is no green space in between them, except for small weeds growing through the stones in the narrow pathways around the graves. A little like a much smaller version of Pere Lachaise Cemetery in Paris, concreted burial place of Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison, amongst others. there is a problem that Cyprus doesn't share with Paris, though. It's a small island and the earth covering is often thin. And there are no modern cremation facilities, although the Orthodox Church has dropped its official opposition. It's almost impossible to buy plots, graves are so shallow that they can be detected by odour after a heavy rain, and multiple use is common. There is no more room.
Many restaurants near the harbour, but not all are open for the winter. Note the Asian ones - Japanese, Indian and Chinese. there is now a concerted, if unlikely, effort to attract Chinese tourists and the property developers have raised billboards around Paphos with messages in Chinese characters and smiling Asian faces.
The tourists would be welcome; there aren't nearly enough in the streets, and Cyprus has always longed for high class tourists, by which they mean not ones like us who cook their own food and buy few souvenirs. We walk past restaurants along the waterfront where the touts are hoping to persuade us to join the one or two couples enjoying a meal in the sun. Stop at an arts and crafts sale that is more crafts than arts, but interesting and not the usual kitsch. On the way back we meet an enormous pink pelican on the walkway by the restaurants, standing so still it looks like a cardboard cutouts, the black eye looking not only painted, but unconvincingly painted. A young woman comes along with a chihuahua sized dog. The dog is interested in making friends, but the pelican opens an enormous scissor-like beak with, clearly, thoughts other than friendship. Fortunately the dog is on a lead.