Monday, 16 April 2012

Friday, April 13/2012

Lucky draw from the hat of possibilities on Friday the thirteenth. We decide to go to Hogarth's  house in Chiswick. bit of a walk from Turnham Green station, but an interesting one through Chiswick, now a part of London but in the 18th century, when hogarth lived here, a town on the Thames well outside London. It still has a bit of a village feeling to it, though the house is situated on Hogarth Lane, which is a lane in name only. It's a dual carriageway which becomes, a little to the west, the M4 . There are paintings here that show it as it once was, though - a country lane.

The real fun in the place, though, is the engravings, someof which are the originals. satirical, indiscreet, and as busy as a giles cartoon. The Rake's Progress with the weeping pregnant fiancée in the doorway. And all the peripheral characters, like the chimney sweep poking his head out the chimney, the syphillitic child, or the monkey in the corner peeing into a helmet. There are dark themes but very funny caricatures illustrating them. I've always wanted a copy of Gin Lane, and they do have the posters, but no tubes. So we opt for Hogarth placemats instead.

We're a ten minute walk from St Nicholas Church where Hogarth and his wife and sisters are buried, so we go over to look. The church is a nineteenth century rebuild but the tower is fifteenth century and the records go back to the twelfth century. The assumption is that there was originally a Saxon church on the site. We're fortunate to meet one of the wardens in the churchyard, who shows us the Hogarth tomb and also points us to where Whistler and his wife are buried. The latter is an interesting tomb with resin figures at the corners replacing original and replacement bronze ones - both sets having been stolen.

Round the corner from the church is the George and Devonshire, a Chiswick pub dting back to the 1650's. In fact it's the only pub left of the original Chiswick village establishments. We stop for half pints of the Fuller's Pride brewed locally. There have been some changes in decor over time. The jukebox style gambling apparatus with flashing lights isn't period. The fireplace may be original but the empty Pinot Giorgio bottles on it are a late and fairly unimpressive addition. Historically the pub had a smugglers' tunnel leading to the Thames and apparently the steps leading to it are still there in the cellar.

Dinner is in Islington - a place I've found googling. It's a real keeper. Indian Veg on Chapel Market, just north of the Angel station. It's quirky and friendly. The walls are covered with vegetarian facts, figures and advice. Small tables with tablecloths and a sign announcing that you're welcome to bring your own wine without corkage fee. (All right. I confess that I googled "very cheap" and "no corkage.") But it's wonderful. an absolutely delicious eat all you like vegan buffet. It's amazing, healthy - and f£4.95 a person.

Home by tube. At Bayswater Station an underground worker with a brush is busy sweeping up what turns out to be large white dominoes from the stairs.