Wednesday, January 12/2011

Head tax pursuit part two. Mainly in order to ascertain the facts for ourselves. This morning the hotel inspecion office is open - bright and so new you can smell the paint. The woman we speak to is friendly but we fall, she says, into a grey area - CTO cosiders tourists in hotels to be those staying less than a month. We're here for three months, but not exactly long term residents under tenant reguations. Also, they have no information on municipal taxes - the town hall would know.

The town hall is down by the waterfront - above the KFC/ There's a small booth as one enters labelled information, but it seems that not many people visit the municipal offices seeking information in English. When J asks about taxes he's told where to find a taxi - but eventually waved over to the lift. Third floor.

We're referred to Mrs. Androula, with the charming Cypriot habit of using the prefix in a semi-formal way before a first name. We only want information so that we know exactly what the situation is. She's more than sympathetic and makes some phone calls as we enjoy the amazing sea view from her office window. The situation is that there was, before 2010, a head tax payable to the municipality. Because of the financial crisis it was suspended for 2010. The assumption is that it will be reinstituted for 2011, but this has not yet happened, nor has the amount been set officially. By the end of January there should be a definite answer. Between the calls she orders coffee and gives us the 2011 Larnaca calendar, each page with a separate historical photograph of the city. We chat and J asks about her family, a son still at the gymnasium (high school) and one who was married the day after Christmas. Impulsively she takes two round wrapped cakes, each about the size of an apple, though a little flatter. They're from the wedding and she's had them here for colleagues. A totally lovely encounter.

So Maggi, up in the afternoon for a drink followed by tea and the cakes shared out. They're very rich, filled with marzipan and coated with very liberal amounts of icing sugar. Delicious, and two are more than enough for three people.