We have to tear ourselves away from the hypnotic window over the harbour to see the rest of the town. We separate, with Jenny and her mum heading off to see Pendennis Castle, built by Henry VIII as part of a line of southern defense against the Spanish, while Joe and I explore the little shops and lanes in the old town. There aren't many tourists about, so we get a fair view of the place as it is, busy and friendly and full of little shops with Cornish pasties or fis and chips, clothing shops, antique shops, bakeries, tearooms and pubs. We pick up a chicken and some salad and wine for dinner, leave it at the flat and head out toward the castle. But by this time it's raining, so we stop at the intriguingly named Oggy Oggy for Cornish pasties. I have a cheese and mushroom one and J the traditional steak, potato and veg. He's not overly impressed, in part because I described it in advance as somewhat similar to a meat pie, instead of as a substitute for a sandwich and he can see how much more he'd like it with gravy. Yes, he knows that miners used to take the pasties as a lunch, complete in one pastry, but couldn't they have let it evolve later? Would like to stop at the church, King Charles the Martyr (this was a royalist stronghold in the civil war), which is nestled in the crook of the street, but it's locked.
Meet back at the flat with Jenny and her mother, who have walked out to Pendennis Castle, passing little wild violets on the way, having had an earlier start in that direction than we did, and taken a taxi back once it got wetter. So more time in front of the magical window, and J roasts the chicken for dinner.
JAWORSKI TRAVELS